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Everything posted by UKJay1971

  1. Looking clear tonight so fingers crossed! My QHY 163m has finally returned so grabbed some narrowband on IC 443, Jellyfish Nebula, last weekend. The O3 was really faint; possibly the moon was still too bright so I'll try and grab some more over the coming weeks. IC 443 Jellyfish Nebula Narrowband by Jay Bolt, on Flickr
  2. UKJay1971

    Hello from N.I

    No - ASDA has it a while but not for years now.
  3. UKJay1971

    Hello from N.I

    I occasionally bring back a freezer bag of Cookstown sausages and Vedas
  4. I hit Rosette last Sunday night too - whole scope froze over apart from the mirrors (thank God for heater straps). Sensor hit -10c at 3am!! Higher resolution on Astrobin
  5. UKJay1971

    Hello from N.I

    We get everywhere, don't we? I'm from Portballintrae originally
  6. UKJay1971

    Hello from N.I

    Welcome aboard, from a fellow Norn Iron astroimager
  7. Precisely - no difference in outcomes (apart from money). I use an ST80 with an Altair GPCam 2 mono and a 0.5x reducer so the guidescope becomes F/2.5 which is plenty fast enough for alignment.
  8. Drift aligning tends to provide the most accurate because it is working with the actual movement of your mount, in your location, and set up the way you set it up that night. I tend to find that other methods like synscan or polar scopes are approximates that get you close. I use Sharpcap's polar align feature which, again, gets me close but not as good as drift align. That said, I guide using PHD rather than mount driven guiding so 'close' is good enough for PHD to make corrections
  9. Sure - I got it from Bernard at Modern Astronomy and he has taken care of the return. This is after the aftersales team in China had FedExed me a spare part for free (had to pay like £4 import duty) just to see if that would work.
  10. The heated sensor window wasn’t working. Can’t wait to get it back - it’s a great camera
  11. I use Stellarium to plan my targets - you can input your camera / scope details and it helps with framing. Once happy, I copy the coordinates and paste them into Sequence Generator Pro and my targets are ready to go to plate solving.
  12. Been a good week for extended sessions - ran an 8 hour session on Wednesday night / Thursday morning on the Heart Nebula. 120 subs at 240secs each on a DSLR - sub pixel guiding and a perfect unattended meridian flip too! I have an issue with egg shaped stars near the outskirts - the problem is my 0.8x field flattener needs 51mm distance to the pixel but my 100D already takes 44mm from the sensor to the lens flange and my T Adapter is 10mm so it's over by 3mm. I think I have a narrower T Adapter somewhere but I won't get it down to 51mm. Heart Nebula by Jay Bolt, on Flickr
  13. Thanks - yes, was masking like crazy when stretching
  14. Managed to catch some sky last Saturday night. In particular, I was delighted to get my first glimpse on the Horsehead and Flame nebulae. The composition isn't brilliant but I will have time to return to these targets and compose a better image. Pretty pleased for just over an hour on a modded Canon 100D and ED80 scope. My QHY is back in China for repair so I'm back on DSLR for the forseeable future Horsehead Nebula by Jay Bolt, on Flickr
  15. Hi - sorry, I'm not being clear. I am an experienced imager but haven't used my DSLR on this scope. Under time pressure I couldn't find focus quickly so I am just looking for advice where about roughly focus in on a 200PDS - does it need an extention tube or not? Is focus at the innermost travel of the focuser or outermost. Using liveview on a DSLR is a nightmare when compared to the luxury of a CMOS cooled camera on Sharpcap. I can figure it out myself but just thought, if someone could quickly help, then I'd ask.
  16. I couldn't even find a star field! I lost patience with extension tubes which I don't think I need - trials of setting up an unfamiliar set-up in the dark
  17. Long winded title - basically I am in the situation where my QHY camera has gone back to China for repair and so I am back using my DSLR. I tried setting up last night on my 200pds but couldn't find focus using my DSLR and coma corrector. I was wondering if anyone can give me some clues where it is - I expect it will be very close to the inner focal extreme of the focus tube as that is what pds scopes aim to do. I have no distant objects to work on in daylight and, of course, the one time I could do with the moon, it's two weeks away from being useful. I have removed all elements from the focal tube other than the basic two screw locking collar and am slotting my camera and coma corrector into the tube.
  18. I now use a laser in a 2x barlow lens for collimating the primary mirror and it is fool proof. For the secondary, use astrobaby's guide and use coloured paper to block out the primary mirror so you can see what is going on. It is a struggle to begin with but when you get it, it is a doddle. I have a 130pds and so I know your scope well. When adjusting the secondary, remember you need to loosen one screw a little to tighten another one. You will be able to move the spot into the mirror by gradual adjustments, not necessarily in one large adjustment.
  19. Finally got out for a play on Saturday - my camera has an issue where the sensor window is no longer heating so, on Friday, I ended up with several dozen subs, all with dew condensation halos. I reset on Saturday and went after M33 again in LRGB. 240 subs in total (120 x 20 sec Lum plus 60 x 40 sec RGB each). I ran the camera at -5c and ran a dew heater strap near the sensor window which seems to have helped. Am waiting for a replacement part from QHY in China to remedy the problem properly. Anyway, here is my end result: M33 Triangulum Galaxy from light polluted Wakefield M33 Triangulum Galaxy by Jay Bolt, on Flickr
  20. Gave me a change to shoot the moon Harvest Moon - October 2017 by Jay Bolt, on Flickr
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