Spaced Out

Thanks..... So you just use the last focus position you were using in that case, so using that same position for every filter ?

Ah, OK, I get it now...... Well my filters are very clean in an enclosed FW so maybe just the 1 lum flats for vignetting is all I need at the moment then ? That sounds like a decent shortcut !

Hi Adam, thanks for this. I'll just stick to a single focus position then it'll save time 👍. I thought the point of flats was to remove imperfections (dust etc) on each filter so they need to be filter specific ? PS - Loving your comet and noctilucent clouds there !

Hi All Just a quick one, I’m new to mono/filters so this may sound like a daft question ! If you have to make some tiny adjustments to focus for each filter, should you do your flats with those tiny adjustments made between each filter too ? I read that focus should be the same between filters and flats but is the point of focus absolutely critical for flats or could I get away with doing them all at the end of the night at one focus position ? Just trying to cut down on early morning faffing time, I know taking short cuts doesn't always work out tho ! Thanks

Before going in with swabs and fluids I'd try a blower and the camera's own sensor cleaning options. Lock the mirror open, hold the camera upside down and use a blower to blow up onto the sensor, this may dislodge stuff and have it drop out (make sure the camera is held upside down/sensor facing the floor). If that doesn't work then try the clean sensor now option on the camera's menu. If they both don't work then consider something more invasive like swabs.

Just 1 power lead in does all (for the mount that is !), I used standard mains power supply with my outdoor garden plug set up. Got my HEQ5 2nd hand so not sure what it actually comes with new.

HUGE !!...... If you let it go that way. I vowed to always be sensible and never do that.......... It didn't work !

I'd suggest HEQ5 as a minimum tbh. HEQ5 will give you a stable imaging platform with the 130PDS/DSLR combo and make life easier than using a lesser mount. I got the HEQ5 but wish I'd waited and saved more for the NEQ6/EQ6R tbh ! NEQ6 or EQ6R can take heavier gear so is a bit more future proof. I've got a 200PDS too and that is right on the limit of the HEQ5's capabilities once you've added heavy camera gear.

My advice would be to work through a few possible causes, it might not be just one thing going on here and I don’t have a simple answer I’m afraid ! Do a star test to check collimation is definitely good. The image seems to show some coma so check spacing of the CC. My MPCC took an evening of careful tinkering to get just right. Stars look more out of focus on the bottom left and perhaps left in general which suggests tilt ? Check the MPCC is placed firmly and flat against the fully lowered focuser tube and screw up each screw little by little alternating between screws to try and get it as central as possible. Many folk have tapped a third screw into the focuser tube to help with tilt problems. Star shapes top left look a bit triangular which is what I had with a pinched primary mirror, it may just be tilt but it can’t hurt to check the mirror clips anyway and loosen slightly if required. These are all things I had to do to get the best from my 130PDS with the Baader MPCC. The MPCC is good once you’ve got the spacing right but I had to take my time and work through it. Good luck

Thanks again, very helpful. I was concerned about tilt from carrying the weight of both the EFW and camera, but it sounds like it should be OK 👍

That's great 👍 I was looking at those TS rotators so I was hoping someone might recommend them. Do you have it fitted on the focuser side of the EFW or the camera side ? Have you had any problems with the weight/tilt ? Thanks

Thanks for this. I've already looked and seen a few about. Is the EFW thread T2 then not M42 ? I am concerned about the weight and introducing tilt so I am looking for recommendations for solid items that work with no issues. Which adaptor do you use please ?

Hi all Just wondering if anyone is using a manual camera rotator with the ZWO ASI 1600 Pro ? I’m looking for something solid enough to take the weight of the camera and EFW without tilting. I’m assuming that putting a rotator between the camera and EFW would lead to greater vignetting with my 1.25” filters ?

Hello everyone I spent hours scratching my head with this yesterday. Today I woke up looked at it with a fresh head and found a problem and solution (I think ?). I'm posting it here in case anyone has any thoughts (is this the correct solution ?) or anyone else comes across similar issues . Ok....What I didn't notice in the daytime yesterday was that east and west were actually reversed on the CDC map itself, because it was daylight I was just clicking on things I assumed were on the east of the CDC map to see if the telescope would go in roughly the right direction, it always went in the opposite ! Today I looked again and where I expected east on the map it said west and vice versa. A look through all of the settings and I found chart/transformation/mirror horizontally. I clicked this and the chart flipped, east and west were now where I expected them to be. A quick plug in to the mount and it slewed in the right direction. Problem solved I hope ? Sure this was just a bit of a schoolboy error not noticing that east and west were reversed on the map itself, in my defence it was daytime and I was just clicking on random stars to see the mounts direction !

Hi All I hope someone can help. I’m having a bit of a nightmare with EQMOD and CDC slewing my telescope in the wrong direction. I ask it to go east and it goes west and vice versa. However it parks fine near Polaris. I have just started using a new laptop to run the mount, it worked fine with my old laptop a couple of months ago. I have installed and uninstalled and re-installed CDC, EQMOD drivers etc but still it slews the wrong way ! I have checked the location info, date and time etc.... they are correct and identical in CDC and EQMOD . The reverse RA/reverse Dec tick boxes in EQMOD are un-ticked. I have a feeling I am overlooking something obvious here ?

Just to clarify, I have already spoken to TS who said they are 99% it will fit due to the EAFs fitting bracket versatility but they haven't tried it. Before I shell out for a new focuser it would be good to hear from someone who has this equipment fitted and working. Thanks

Hi All Does anyone know if the ZWO EAF auto-focuser will definitely fit this focuser ? https://www.teleskop-express.de/shop/product_info.php/language/en/info/p3700_TS-Optics-MONORAIL-2--Newtonian-focuser-with-Micro-Transmission.html Thanks

I had a go last night. A bit of trial and error with lenses, I wanted some landscape in and so needed to keep it fairly wide angle. I used a Canon 5D Mk4 + EF 85mm F1.8. 5 secs, ISO 1600, F5.

That's impressive ! 👍 I wanted to replace my flaky SW focuser for a UNC V-power or Monorail focuser but I couldn't get an adaptor plate/base to fit it to the small OTA. All I could get off the shelf to fit was a Moonlite which was $$$$$. The stock SW focuser seems to be the weak point when you have a heavy mono camera, filter wheel and OAG attached.

Thanks for this. In what way do you think it is better apart from the length/tilt thing ? Better looking stars ? Pinpoint stars ? Easier to space ? Does it need a full length tube and do you have to wind it out quite a long way for focus ? I've got a heavy camera and FW on a stock SW focuser, I'm guessing the further it is wound out the less stable it might become.

Just wondering if you're still happy with this CC v the Baader ? Do you have any comparisons ? I'm considering maybe moving from MPCC to this CC if it performs better.

It’s a HEQ5 and lots of imaging associated cables under the cover. Only issue I had initially was condensation but I quickly got a humidity monitor, added some very low wattage (8W) boot warmers and sprayed the whole lot with ACF-50. Not had a problem since, been out there under cover for about a year now. I do air it maybe once a week when it’s dry outside.

I had no room for an obs but I built an outdoor concrete pier with power running to it and all cables in place (running back to a PC in the shed). I leave the mount outside on the pier (under a breathable BBQ cover with very low level heat running). This has saved me loads of time lugging stuff in and out and wiring up every night aligning etc. I leave my scope with cameras etc all connected and remove the whole lot in one at the end of the session by just turning off and unplugging wires. To set up I just carry the scope/cameras outside, attach it to the mount and plug in the wiring and flick a couple of switches, takes maybe 5 minutes. Then cooling time of course. I know it’s not for everyone but it worked well for me, it saves me time and no faffing about every night with wiring, polar aligning and going through star alignments etc.

Thanks both for your replies. I have a set of Astronomik 6nm NB filters and my guiding is good 👍 . I need to get some practice in with this new gear so I think I’ll give this a go (so long as I can find a suitable target).

Hi All The skies where I live are now lighter at night with the continuous twilight of mid-summer. At this point I normally give up on using the telescope until maybe mid August. I am new to using filters and I am wondering whether NB filters might allow me to continue imaging through the summer twilight ? Is this a thing that people do or is it just a stupid idea ? Thanks.