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Found 26 results

  1. Hello everybody! I measured my setup times when i did my last imaging run. Absolutely shocking Step 1: unmount 8" quattro, disassemble EQ6 into 3 parts, move parts to terrace and reassemble EQ6, remount 8", without counterweights: 6 minutes 50 seconds (correct position marked on terrace, with right arm hurt, good time ) Step 2: Mount counterweights and set scope to park position: 1 minute 55 secs Step 3: Connect power sources and connect all cabling: 20 minutes Step 4: get the computer and software running (on a very good night): 10 minutes Step 5: Let my old QHY8 cam and the scope cool down: 1 hour - otherwise i get strong gradients! Total prep time: 1 hour 39 minutes. Obviously, the cable time could be improved massively by training. But even if we could get the cabling time to zero, i'd get only down to 1h24', with the total time being dominated by the cooling of my rig. Open question: As i would not leave my cam outside, there seems no real possibly to cut down significantly on my prep time, even with a small obsy? Or am i doing something wrong? Best, U. P.S.: Getting an expensive cam is right now no good option
  2. Coco

    M33 ATIK 428 OSC

  3. Hi, this question has probably been done to death here, but can I ask the community to help me decide on a new camera? After struggling with my very glitchy QHY5LIIc camera for a while, as well as having a forced break from astronomy, I have decided to get a new camera. After all the problems I've been having with the QHY, I really don't want to use this manufacturer again. I know lots of people use them quite happily, but once bitten ... I have been looking at the ZWO cameras - OSC, as I haven't the time, clear skies, or patients to do LRGB imaging! I have about £250 to spend, which I may be able to push to £300 if I wait a bit. ? So I've been looking at the ASI224MC, ASI290MC and the ASI178MC cameras. I mainly do planetary/Luna imaging, but I have also dabbled in a bit of DSO and would like to continue with both. I have a C9.25 and a ST80 guide scope. I know these aren't ideal for DSOs but please humour me! I think from the specs/information that the 224 is probably the best option. Although the resolution and QE are the worst of the three, the well depth and read noise are the best and the fps is pretty good too. I don't know if there are better/cheaper cameras using the same chips, such as Altair's range. I just don't want to make the same mistake that I did with the QHY!n Any help/advice you can give will be much appreciated.?
  4. £450 including UK Next Day Special Delivery Made by Diffraction Limited in Canada, owners of SBIG Cameras Resolution 10.7MP, 3760 x 2840 pixels Sensor Size 17.9 mm x 13.5 mm, 22.5mm diagonal (Four Thirds format ?) 4.75um x 4.75um pixel size 16 bit A/D Binning 2x2 or 4x4 Exposures 0.01sec to 24hrs, 0.001 sec to 24hrs (2x2, 4x4 Bin) Regulated Thermoelectric (TEC) Cooling with Fan Cooling Range 20C° below ambient Dark Signal (at 0° C) 2e-/pixel/second Dynamic Range 64 dB Full Well Capacity 25,000 e- Quantum Efficiency 32% @ 630 nm; 42% @ 550 nm; 40% @ 470 nm Read Noise (RMS) 16 e- Optical Window High transmission Schott B270 glass Optical Coatings IR cutoff and anti-reflection multi-coatings Shutter Internal Mechanical Sub-Framing Full, Half, Quarter, selectable Weight 0.91 kg Power Requirements 12V DC 2.5Amp, tip positive Back Focus Distance 26mm from M42 x 0.75 T2 flange Comes with AstroFX software, written by the Maxim DL people. With this you can set up automatic acquisition sequences to capture FITS Lights, Darks, Bias, and Flats, and then takes you step-by-step through a complete processing process Or you can acquire FITS images, stack with DSS, and process with PS etc Unusual for a colour sensor, Binning allows you to match the camera's pixel size to your focal length Cylindrical shape is ideal for Fastar/ HyperStar setups In the package: Nightscape Camera with 2" Nosepiece 1.5M USB cable Software CD containing: Celestron and ASCOM Nightscape drivers Nightscape Installation and User Guide AstroFX Software AstroFX User Guide FitsView FITS Viewer A DSS Master Dark to get you going - made from 23 Bin2x2 subs of 600 seconds at -20C £450 including UK Next Day Special Delivery UK BUYERS ONLY PLEASE NGC 2175 "The Monkey Head Nebula" Thanks for looking Michael
  5. While looking for something entirely different (honest!) my gaze fell upon this. It makes you wonder (at something like €2000 per tube+camera) how many more OTAs you could pile on ...
  6. I bought this camera new 5 years ago and it has been very little used. The sale includes the sx off axis guider. Camera and OAG £600 All in excellent condition. The front of the camera body has some cosmetic scratches from use of the OAG - see photo. Collect from Chesterfield or add £20 for insured special delivery postage Payment by bank transfer I've attached a couple of images taken with the camera along with pics of the camera itself
  7. I obtained my first telescope (ED80DS Pro with NEQ6) in October 2016 and experimented with some success with an unmodified 70D, slowly getting to grips with EQ-suite, CdC, DeepSkyStacker and BackyardEoS whilst taking a large number of varying quality images of M31, M33 and M42. In November I bought an Atik 414ex osc and have been on a real journey of discovery. Having finally got to grips with PHD guiding, Sequence Generator Pro and dithering, and spent hours experimenting with Photoshop and various pieces of trial image processing software here is my first result that I feel reasonably satisfied with. To the expert eye I am sure it has a wealth of shortcomings so any constructive comments would be very much appreciated. The image comprises 62x120s high-dither lights with fifty darks, flats and bias frames (all at -10 degrees C), and what feels like 2x62 hours of time spent processing! I will take this opportunity to thank so many on this forum who have unknowingly helped me make progress over the past four months. I have read many, many posts on a vast range of topics and learnt more than my brain could cope with. Thank you to all for sharing so much. Equipment: ED80DS Pro with 0.85 f/r, focussing unit and USB interface, NEQ6, IR/UV filter, Atik 414ex osc Software: Sequence Generator Pro, Cdc, EQ Suite, DeepSkyStacker, Photoshop CS6
  8. In my quest to make a good go at using an OSC I managed to grab 3 hours of images of M51 last night with an 80%+ Moon to contend with. After more like 6 hours of playing in PixInsight I managed to produce this. Trouble is I'm never quite sure when I'm finished. Is image processing ever finished? Or is it an ongoing past-time for cloudy nights? Any comments on the image and what additional tweaking might improve it would be really appreciated. Adrian Scope : ED80DS Pro + NEQ6 Pro + 0.85 F/R Camera: Atik 414ex osc Software : SGP + PHD + PI _2017_03_15_M51_dss_ABE-lin+nonlin.tif
  9. I have a problem with stacking images from my 5D MK3, the files are huge, I’ve tried both- Astroart V5 and DSS, Astroart fails to stack the CR2’s because of a memory issue? Deep sky stacker gets there in the end but the colour is washed out and no amount of tweaking can get an acceptable result. Pixinsight – er well it’s so long winded I cannot for the life of me understand it; I suppose I would have to batch convert all the .CR2 files into .Fits then process .. am I correct? Any thoughts?
  10. Been thinking about this to the point of going around in circles! I've been planning on a dual imaging setup for a while now (been using a dual frac setup, swapping camera between them depending on FOV requirements) but rather than get another dslr I'm wanting to take the leap from modded dslr to ccd, but I'm having a bit of trouble planning my roadmap. Looking at a budget of say ~2000 I could get either: A: 314L+, EFW2 filterwheel and filters (LRGB and Narrowband) or B: 314L+ Mono and a 314L+ OSC Option B seems as if it would get me to my dual imaging setup in one foul swoop, so is there really a big difference by going down the 2 mono cam route?
  11. This was an experiment in imaging one target (M33) with three cameras and then combining the three components into one composite image. 70D dslr+ED80DS - 10x120s + 10x180s + 10x240s combined with HDRComposition in PixInsight. 414osc+ED80DS - 7x600s processed in PI 428(Ha)+WO-ZS71 - 10x600s Ha processed in PI. All the components were registered in PI using StarAlignment. 30% of 428-Ha was combined with the 414-Red in PS using a Lighten layer. The Ha enhanced 414osc image was then combined with the widefield image from the 70D using a masked layer at 45% opacity. I was trying to get the wide field view from the dslr with the enhanced detail from the 414/428 but I'm not sure it has worked. Any advice and help would be much appreciated. Thank you for looking. Adrian
  12. I imaged the Rosette Nebula using my Ha filter the other night. It looked great Problem was my FOV was too small. I have SGP with Mosaic so thought I would give it a try and also get some sleep in the process. Last night was a great night for inaging. Very clear and dark here after moonset. I decided to image with just a LP filter. I set SGP to take a 6 panel image using 10x 120s subs for each panel. Taken at f/2 using C11 Hyperstar and Atik4120EX OSC on Mesu 200 mount. The top of the image looks like frost or cloud may have got in the way. I will take a look later. But so far I am impressed with the potential I have reduced the file to 1.6M from 100M I will attempt some panels again on this subject. Also I will do again in just Ha to see the difference. Thanks for looking.
  13. To my surprise last night wasn't a complete write-off. I managed to get another 135 minutes of decent 5-minute frames of M31, this time without my LP filter. Total of 3 hours 55 minutes with my cooled canon. There was some streaky noise caused by drifting very thin cloud. The subs were much brighter and no moon plus high elevation meant I got away with it. The mix of frames with and without filter stopped the core being too badly blown out. I think I've controlled my urge to over-process this time, but any suggestions for improvement welcome.
  14. I think I may have a solution to stop the qhy8 from fogging up, what I didnt want was to remove the camera after each session, I was advised to keep the camera in a sealed box with a dessicant, ok thats easy, but the beauty of having an obs is that you can keep the kit together.. So I am testing this solution, over the last two days its worked a treat, roll on winter :/ Easy, just pop the box off every session, I have a spare lid for the tub to keep the dessicant dry... Time will tell
  15. Hello to all, Maybe you can help me this issue. I am currently getting some strange dark pixels in my exposures, like an "bug swarm" pattern. They only appear on the first few exposures I take, and disappear later. Last night, I was taking 15-minute exposures @ 0 degrees C and this artifact was present on the first three frames but disappeared by the fourth one. Any idea what could this be? The attached screenshot shows a 200% zoom region of one of my uncalibrated lights with those black pixels. I should note that they are difficult to remove during processing, and since my guiding is fairly good, they remain after stacking. Please help!
  16. Hi earthlings.. Apart from messing about with the Tal 100RS 2 months ago its been 4-5 months since I imaged something.. This was taken between the clouds last Thursday with my new APM 107 APO and the one shot colour ATIK 428 24 x 5 minute exposures ( 2 hours only ) Stacked in AstroArt and part processed in Pixinsight and PS.. Thanks for looking..
  17. Last night was one of those rare evenings, it wasn't even suppose to be clear but it was! Only managed 1 hour of integration.. 20 x 180second subs 50 flats 50 bias Quattro 8s Will definitely have another go at processing this, only wish I had gone for 5 minute subs Thanks for clicking..
  18. I recently upgraded to a purpose made astro-camera (Atik Horizon Color). The learning curve has definitely been noticeable, but I cant figure a couple things out. For some reason the pictures are grey scale when using N.I.N.A. I have tried different binning and formats, but the image is always black and white. If I use the ATIK software (Infinity,Dusk) there is an option for 'Color Binning', and that seems to have fixed it for those programs, but N.I.N.A doesn't seem to have that option (you can not select anything for binning, or select 1x1, 2x2 ect.). But what makes it weirder is that the preview is always color using N.I.N.A. I used a pinhole lens cover to take pictures of my computer screen and it always shows up as color images. However, if I take that exact image file that previews in color and move it to pixinsight, it is grey-scale. Is this a binning thing, file format problem? At this point I am just confused, if the preview of the image is color shouldn't the image data be color as well? So far all the problems I have had with this camera have just been simple things that were new to me, but this one is really throwing me for a loop. Thanks for any help. I've attached a couple images. The first you can see the NINA preview is color, as well with the couple other I took in the bottom right. And the other in a photo of trying to color saturate the stretched image in Pixinsight, and it says that it cannot saturate a grey-scale image. I have tried this with Tif, Fits, and various binning types.
  19. Coco

    WHALE - ATIK 428 OSC

  20. Hi everyone, A bit of an odd one aspect ratio wise, but fun to put together - first light for my new ASI294MC OSC and technically my first experimental attempt at a mosaic! My first stab at using the camera meant I went for 30 second subs, I need to experiment more to settle on my ideal sub length...still, the results are decent for a low integration time of 1.7 hours. I love the Orion constellation and if I had the skies and time, I would mosaic the whole thing, but failing that, I can do bits and pieces! Orion's Belt is amazing to me, the three stars, Alnitak, Alnilam and Mintaka, very distinctive in the night sky. Full details on Astrobin. Thanks for looking!
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