noah4x4

This is NOT correct. For Windows Remote Desktop to work you need Windows 10 Pro only on the scope side computer which I run 'headless. Then Windows 10 Home is fine 'indoors'. Wireless range is comfortably 30 feet, but use a Netgear EX8000 wireless extender (or cat 6 cable) if you need longer. Windows RDP is much more reliable than TeamViewer which now insists on running over the Internet to check for commercial use. To get 'peer to peer' on your WAN or LAN you need to pay a subscription. RDP is better value unless you can keep an older TV installation running (e.g. don't upgrade!). A Tip... Windows Remote Desktop artificially screws down screen data transfer below 10Mbps even if your network can handle 433Mbps (e.g. 802.11ac wireless adapters). This means software for 16 megapixel cameras may stutter/lag on the indoor display device if running a 4K UHD display. To resolve this, disable 'RemoteFX Compression' via Windows 10 Pro 'Group Profiles'. But only do this on your local WAN/LAN. This compression is to avoid a single user "throttling" commercial networks. But at home, release its full power and turbo-charge your network! I have posted fuller instructions in the Observatories Forum. The only benefit of running older Win7 laptops is access to serial ports. But put a PL2303 driver into a modern Win10 PC and enjoy fast USB, or better still 'Thunderbolt' display cable; 802.11n or 802.11ac wireless and a generally better experience. OK, the GUI is little different, but it's not difficult. I connect both of my astro computers using RDP over cat 6 cable with zero Internet connectivity. No 'updates, no 'notifications', no Google or Microsoft intrusions. Only when I need to get new astro software do they get connected to the WWW. Life is then a joy with Win 10 Professional.

Here is a link.... https://www.scan.co.uk/products/intel-compute-stick-windows-10-dual-core-intel-core-m3-6y30-4gb-ram-64gb-emmc-microsdxc-ac-wifiplusb But if you phone them my guess is they may assist with Win10 Pro. All of their Scan range of mini-computers are routinely Win10 Pro and worth a look. BTW, I am not quite sure how you hook this 'computec stick' up as it is normally designed to plug directly into a display. Do check it has all the ports and connectivity you need! It might be easier with one of the mini computers.

1. You only need Win 10 Pro on one computer to run RDP. 2. If you search hard enough you will probably find a computing device available with no operating system where you can optionally order either Win 10 Home or Pro. I have not looked other than at their NUCs, but try Scan Computers where I bought my gear - very reliable - fast despatch - great service. 3. If you do have to accept Win 10 Home, the upgrade (about £100- £125) is easy. You just pay by credit card and download the upgrade, just like any other Windows update . Win 10 Pro is (IMHO) much superior.

Another though Festoon, It might help you if I show you an image of my rig to illustate how I affix stuff to my tripod's central rod. I constructed a triangular 'MDF' box with a 14mm hole through its centre so it slides up the rod and sits on the tripods leg spreader. Inside, I conceal all cables except the bits that do the final connecting. I then affixed VESA plate/NUC to side A; Focusser control to side B; Battery to side C. Neat cable solution eh? If I want to go to a dark sky site it just slides on and off as one comprehensive unit.

Hi Festoon, I originally ran my "12v to 19v" i5 NUC with Iris Plus (4k) Graphics using a MaxOak K2 50,000 mAh at 20v (its actual output is 19.3v so within the + or - 5% advisable tolerance). This performed great. But the MaxOak only outputs 3.5A at best. I hence needed a seperate 12v battery for my camera/focuser that also require over 2 amps. Even if I had used both the MaxOaks 20v and 12v outputs the amps available were too low. I hence sought a single battery solution. My camera can't take 19v, so it had to be at the lower end. I then switched to a 12v 22Ah Tracer, which is as reliable a brand as it gets (and expensive). Pumps out a steady 12v for hours and up to 10A available. It worked, but I suffered from significantly lag, slow connectivity etc. compared to 19v, when running camera, auto-focusser and scope control software on the NUC i5 that at a peak load can require around 50 watts . Admittedly, I was driving 4k UHD screen data between two identical NUCs over Windows Remote Desktop and dropping resolution to 1080p had a beneficial effect. Frankly, I found the margin for error slim. As soon as I connected my NUC to its regular mains AC/DC (19v) adapter it was again flying. I mentioned earlier my pal that regrets buying an i3 NUC, albeit his power needs are lower. Frankly, I don't think you dare cut corners with computing 'oomph' or power. I also have a 16v supply and that drives the NUC OK, but whilst 12v will work, load more devices/processes and you risk performance issues. Remember too that many Chinese "12v" batteries output between merely 10.6v and 11.3v, rarely 12v. My NUC i5 will choke at 11.3v as it then would need 4.5 Amps to achieve 50 watts. Its supplied AC/DC adapter is rated 19v, 65 watts, which perhaps confirms everything we need to know! More recent more powerful NUCs have adapter with a 19v, 120 watts rating. However, older Celeron and Pentium models are genuinely merely 12v. I here must emphasise that my 16 megapixel camera creates frames each exceeding 48mb. Your 2 megapixel camera will be much less demanding. But I am not running my mount from a common supply (my Evolution has its own internal supply). I would recommend a combination of a MaxOak K2 at 19v for a NUC i5 and seperate 12v supply for other devices. I now use a mains AC/DC adapter supply, as once resigned to cat6a cable (desirable for a 4K system) one extra cabke is neither here nor there. 4k UHD and wireless do not sit comfortably.

The key clues for me are you mention "indoors", USB3.0, Windows Remote Desktop and there is the likelihood of using stacked subs in Atik Infinity or Sharpcap which consumes a surprising amount of 'oomph' and storage once you get into even low multiples of megapixels. I suspect it won't be long before you more fully embrace scope and focuser control and each step adds to the computing 'oomph that you will need. I personally think you might ultimately regret buying anything less than an Intel core m3 6Y30 with 4GB RAM and 64GB eMMC, MicroSDXC ac, Intel HD Graphics, HDMI, USB3.0 at around £347 with Win 10 Pro Operating System (for RDP). It's probably more powerful than you currently need, but (say) the future availability of astro cameras does depend on the availability of sensors in much wider camera markets. For the sake of perhaps £100 I would err on the side of caution and invest in something greater than Intel Atom or other similar budget stick versions. Even my mobile phone camera is now 10 megapixel. The trend is hence moving rapidly upwards (with falling prices) with the advent of CMOS. However, I suspect low resolution CCD so highly favoured because of their high sensitivity might even become more expensive due to sensor shortage e.g. outside the astro market who buys them? Most DSLRs now boast 24 megapixels. Going up the scale, I have an i5 NUC and it's excellent with my 16 megapixel CMOS camera, but I have a colleague that suggests his NUC i3 is borderline with his and he wishes he had spent a little more. You probably don't need higher than M3, but don't be too frugal. I concur with Stash_old. My apologies. The Pi B3 has indeed recently been updated to improve wireless to embrace 802.11ac. But is still merely USB2.0 when you potentially need USB3.0. I know a host of people that started with Pi, had a bit of fun, then soon had to start again at (say) their first camera upgrade or when adding new devices or software components. For example, I have just added Celestron's graphics intensive CPWI scope control and the extra overhead is surprising. It's not easy when on a tight budget, but it will cost you more in the long haul if you skimp. I could have bought a decent holiday with what I wasted by underestimating connectivity, storage, WiFi and particularly power needs.

I have a lot of experience of this challenge, having progressed from a simple low budget DSLR system to a end to end 4K UHD EAA system. My advice, you need to look holistically at your final destination or risk a lot of costly mistakes as your rig progressively evolves. You can succeed with low budget Compute Sticks if your camera isn't demanding. But today, even inexpensive cameras can be significantly data intensive as the price of megapixels tumbles. Then, just as you discover you need more computing power, you learn you need more battery power. Next consideration is connectivity. The higher the camera resolution, the greater the computing 'oomph', the greater the power; the more challenging the bandwidth. Tackle each problem sequentially (rather than holistically) and you will waste money. You are best served by posing this question; "I want to adopt a <name of camera> and be an EAA observer <state outdoors/indoors> from <state distance from scope> using a <state 1080p or 4k UHD> display". Then people can more specifically recommend the computing; battery and connectivity that you will require. I could have had a nice holiday from the money I wasted by repeatdly underestimating my requirements and hence having to upgrade each time I turned a corner. For example, there is no denying you can build an EAA system using Raspberry Pi. But you are then limited to previous generation wireless and USB2. You can run an Intel NUC on 12v, but if at peak capacity it won't perform as well as at 19v. With the price of megapixels tumbling with the advent of CMOS, this needs much more planning than "which compute stick". Investing in cheap options can prove more costly if you fail to you look at the holistic picture.

The simplest solution might be a MaxOak K2 50,000 mAh. Offers a massive 185 watt-hours; with 20v, 12v and four x 5v outputs (two at 5v/2.5A, two at 5v/1A). Incredibly versatile for around £109. The 20v output can be used to charge/power a laptop or power a 19V Intel NUC. 12v can be used for cameras, 5v for smaller devices. The only limit is a total amperage limit of 3 Amps, so whilst incredibly versatile, it won't run too many devices simultaneously, but should meet the OP needs.

I use Hyperstar (hence f/2) and live stacking and I can blow out the core of M42 using my powerful camera with merely 1 second exposures and it hence needs a fair amount of aggressive histogram adjustment. M42 is a remarkably bright object. You will similarly need very short (single) exposures with a DSLR, but at (say) f/6.3 inevitably somewhat longer than mine at f/2 So start very short and built from there. It's been a while since I used my DSLR, but I recall it didn't take many seconds before I had captured a decent image of M42. It was not minutes. But other DSOs require vastly longer.

The latest version (renamed CPWI) is in beta testing within TeamCelestron and now embraces almost all Celestron mounts including GEM + Alt-Az with and without wedge, also Starsense. There remain some issues with third party software and the odd bug. But for basic scope control it is excellent. It is similar to SkySafari, but runs in MS-Windows.

This information might assist, or assist a future reader seeking similar information. I have an MKIT20-WL wireless autofocuser and can recommend it. If using its direct wireless route you need no local Network (it works like Celestron direct WiFi). The wireless receiver is about the size of a pack of cards (easily velcroed to OTA). So the added weight at the scope is minimal. It requires 12v, but draws little amperage. Its hand controller is larger, about the size of a small paperback book, and it also requires 12v/2 Amps. That connects to your laptop where for autofocus you need to be running FocusMax. However FocusMax only works with SG Pro or Maxim DL. You can see how the cost might escalate. I also found SG Pro unnecessarily complex for my EAA needs. But more simply, the MKIT20-WL itself has a learning mode and auto-temperature compensation adjustment. To be frank, I havn't used Focusmax or Temperature Adjustment. I always use Hyperstar so my exposures are extremely short and in the UK temperature adjustment isn't a major challenge unless doing extreme long exposures (which I don't). But what I did discover was whilst this wireless set up was great for focuser control when doing remote EAA from my indoor 'mission control' it wasn't ideal when doing visual astronomy whilst stood at the scope with the controller indoors. Eventually I put an Intel NUC at the scope and connected that to another Intel NUC indoors that controlled the former using Windows Remote Desktop. This might be over 802.11ac wireless (which I found flaky) or cat 6 cable. I could then locate the focuser hand controller at the scope and link that to the NUC at the scope by USB. I could then use its up/down buttons during visual astronomy at the scope or use its Microtouch software to control focus remotely from the NUC indoors. So save some money, as if you have two computers available you don't need the wireless version of this Microfocuser! The standard version is adequate. I now focus using only the simple focus tool in Atik's Infinity Software. This uses FMHW methodology and I consistently get down to a low number below 3. If 'Infinity' is then set to reject stacks with focus under 5 it works superbly.

Another thought about CMOS... An argument for larger pixels is that they are useful on faint objects. That is not in dispute. However, the Atik Horizon albeit a native large sensor, tiny pixel camera can offer "bigger" pixels simply by full full colour binning. Here, combining pixels enhances sensitivity at the expense of resolution. This is possible because CMOS binning is achieved by software rather than on-chip (CCD uses that). Hence, one of the major arguments for CCD is less relevant. I can use high resolution on bright objects and lower on faint objects. Having flexibility and control ticks another box. A new generation of budget CMOS will similarly offer the best of both worlds, but at lower price than equivalent CCD. I hope you don't have to wait too long Steve, but it is sound advice to first experiment with your DSLR and existing laptop, so a little patience until we see what Atik announce is sensible.

A fair observation today about respective audiences based on equipment price adyj1. But let me make a prediction about next years NEW audience..... Whilst the Atik Horizon OSC and ZWO ASI1600 retail at circa (I agree expensive) £1,200 they are replicating features of far more expensive CCDs. Let's not debate "CCD versus CMOS" as CCD will probably win on technical grounds. But CMOS wins on price by a comfortable margin when comparing features. Almost all DSLRs and phone cameras are now CMOS. I perceive that the reason CMOS hasn't yet had similar impact in the astro-community is perhaps our own stubborn resistance to change. Yes, CCD is possiby better for AP, but that isn't tne only purpose of an astro camera. I am similarly amazed that we still operate in a paradigm of serial to USB devices and Windows 8 compatibility, but I digress. The break through made by this new generation of easy to use CMOS, high resolution, large sensor, low read noise, small pixel cameras will hopefully pave the way to encourage manufacturers to soon introduce a wider range of budget CMOS astro-cameras that are far more affordable. However, a perceived current lack of demand means CMOS sensor manufacturers are inevitably not focused on supporting the low volume astro-community, so we are our own worse enemies. But EAA and CMOS enthusiasts (like me) can encourage positive change. Having recently talked to some manufacturers, I think this could happen quite soon, possibly around the end of this year when Steve (OP) might be buying (e.g. having wisely first tested the water with his DSLR and his existing laptop). We are possibly on the brink of a CMOS revolution. The astrophotographers will probably continue with CCD (fair enough), but ever worsening light pollution is stimulating a new and ever faster growing generation of EAA enthusiasts and that will stimulate demand for cheaper but higher specification CMOS cameras. In the event that this happens (which seems inevitable) purchasors of this new generation of affordable budget CMOS cameras will regret not investing in marginally more in computing and display power today. That is why I advocate some future proofing in anticipation. The Kodlix is awesome value at £150 (but I notice is no longer available on Amazon UK). But is perhaps suitable only for a 1k camera/display (given the 30hz limit on UHD) and the modest processor may stutter if the data demand are high. My data hungry Atik Horizon (£1200/16 megapixel) saves 48mb image files, but that is little different to my four year old 24 megapixel DSLR that cost me merely £200 used (but still in mint condition). Now consider how wireless bandwith has jumped from 28kb/s and data storage standards have reached terabytes in barely a decade, whilst display has had a journey from 720p to 1080p to 4K UHD to 8k. The astro camera market is patently lagging behind in the wider adoption of more affordable CMOS, I hence feel my warning to not underestimate future computing & display & power requirements is relevant to all audiences, not just current high end purchasers.

Glad to assist Steve. I have been involved elsewhere in some cutting edge forum threads on this subject where a huge minefield of potential problems has been uncovered. It is really wise to get your basic AP (or EAA) set up running before attempting remote control of any type. It's then easier to reach your goals. Here are two more thoughts.... People have succeeded with very basic systems using Raspberry Pi (which has inferior 802.11n WiFi and no USB3). However, for example, Atik's dedicated wireless software for the Pi (Atik Air) will choke on the Atik Horizons data demands. Of course, if you buy a lesser camera, that worry might appear irrelevant, that is until Christmas 2019 when CMOS cameras are half the price (we can hope) and you want to upgrade again. A degree of future proofing components is no bad idea. One thing I did think odd about the Kodlix mini-computer that you mentioned was that it claimed to have 'HD' graphics then rather remarkably claims an upper 4096 x 2016 pixel resolution (which is 4k UHD) at 30hz, yet the price is merely £150. I am not an expert, but am concerned that 30hz is a incredibly slow refresh rate and £150 does seem too low for 4K. If you don't want to suffer lag and stutter a capability of achieving 4k UHD at 60hz is much better. If limited to a regular lower resolution (1k) CCD camera you might be OK with this mini-computer. But it illustrates how easily you can stumble over manufacturers claims if you buy a more demanding camera. Begs the question, what resolution is your DSLR? I bet it's over 6 megapixel? By trying things out first with your existing laptop and comparing its graphics and refresh rates you can better assess stuff like this. Frankly, you don't need 4K UHD for AP, but if it's in your budget range it's well worth it (IMHO) for EAA, even if merely future proofing. Also check what graphics capability your i7 laptop has? It might even be the one to make the 'Host'!

Hi Steve, I think the specification is probably fine for what you initially want to do. But I have a sensible practical suggestion to help you test this assumption.... My suggestion is start by using your existing laptop at the scope simply to get everything ELSE working. Then (later) buy the mini-computer and swap that into its place and get that fully operative. Then progress to cabled (or wireless) remote connections between the two computers as the LAST step. The first reason that I say this is that I rather too ambitiously started the other way round and prematurely attempting wireless connectivity confused and disguised a gazillion other problems like USB3, USB2 and Serial to USB device conflicts and power problems. But if you can get the camera and other devices set up fully operative (which you can do indoors) with your existing laptop then you are ready to progress unhindered by any unresolved other problems. If you don't run into any brick walls with the basic set up (like lack of battery or processor power) with merely your existing laptop you can then be more confident that the mini-computer will be fine. But if you do have problems with the existing laptop, you then know that you might need a higher specification mini-computer. I have an Atik Horizon camera which itself demands 2 Amps and I had also bought a i5 NUC that demands a full 12 volts and 50 watts at peak. A pal with an identical camera has merely an i3 NUC. It demands less power, but it hasn't got equivalent graphics handling, and he ran into problems with its lesser WiFi capability and wishes that he had gone one notch higher. So don't risk underestimating battery, computing, WiFi or cable power. By making gentle progress as I have suggested you can eliminate unforeseen problems before they become too costly. Next step once the basics are working, is remote cintrol. I recommend getting the two computers connected by Cat 6 cable given that 20M is quite long for 'active' USB . Such cable is cheap and is your fall back (especially for testing). Don't underestimate the challenges with USB and hubs! Attempt wireless remote control LAST. Wireless might be the ultimate goal, but in my experience it can be a bucket load of trouble if any other stuff is still flaky. I succeeded by putting together ever higher specification kit (like upgrading my laptop from 802.11n to full 5G 802.11ac wireless), but I still suffered nuisance problems with lag and drop outs. I got so fed up with having to reboot locked up computers I even invested in a 7" mini-monitor for my NUC so I could diagnose stuff at both ends (remember the computer at the scope is 'headless' with no display). I also ended up with a seperate wireless mouse and keyboard for the NUC (which shouldn't be necessary if TeamViewer or RDP is working OK). It was at this point I noticed the distinct quality difference between the display output on my 720p mini-monitor at the scope and the 1080p laptop indoors - pretty obvious really, but who considers display when buying an astro camera? It then dawned on me that I had a 4k camera and a 4k NUC that was being degraded over wireless and finally hitting a mere 1080p HD display (which is still good). This doesn't matter with AP as all processing is done on the more powerful NUC, but if you aspire to enjoying the best 'near live' EAA view indoors I realised what I had previously been doing was imperfect. I then deleted the inferior laptop, brought my NUC indoors (using cable) and directly connected it by Thunderbolt display cable to a 4K UHD monitor. Awesome! Overkill possibly yes, expensive yes, but if buying other high end components, surely one wants to ultimately match them with a high end display? Not suggesting anybody follow my perhaps extravagant and indulgent path, just learn from the limitations I discovered. So start simple and build. If you go straight to remote control (cable or wireless), another issue WILL bite you.

Intel NUCs do run on between 12v to 19v (+ or - 10%) but are a bit fickle at the lower end and ideally need a consistent 12v. If merely 11.7v the more powerful ones can struggle at peak load. Hugh, you are also right, most laptops are 19v or 20v. This makes the MaxOak 50000 mAh power bank such a good buy due to its low cost, high watt hours and great versatility. It can run a depleted laptop in the field at 20v or a NUC at 20v or telescope/camera at 12v and keep going for eight hours. However, I don't think it wise to attempt using its 20v and 12v ports simultaneously. Sorry, I thought I had made it clear that my 4K UHD set up was primarily used for EAA where the primary objective is the best possible on screen 'near live' view. For AP you don't need the same display quality (albeit desirable). However, given that Sony and Samsung have already launched retail 8k display (TV) technologies I reckon that it won't be long before 4K UHD will become the computer display standard (rather than 1k 1080p HD). Consider DSLR or even phone camera technologies where at least 9 megapixel have now become routine. Why are computer screens and most astro cameras so laggard? CMOS now makes large sensor high resolution astro cameras affordable. The debate as regards AP is very different as post processing is used to enhance images. But with EAA you do want the best on screen display and in my experience wireless isn't the best or easiest route except where it is not practical to use cable.

This might be true of earlier versions. But I was recently told by TeamViewer Support that in the latest downloaded version that today this is only possible using the paid for commercial version. It was also flaky and unreliable over the Internet, so to get peer to peer I switched to Remote Desktop, which was also free in Windows 8, but now you need Windows 10 Pro, so cost applies there. I suggest that if your rig is using an older version of TeamViewer you don't ever upgrade and potentially lose this functionality. However, this isn't relevant to my main point. For AP it isn't material. However, the wireless route does degrade the (indoors) on-screen view so for EAA cable is typically better, assuming that your camera is large sensor high resolution. EDIT - more information. Just realised why TeamViewer might now require the latest free download to run over the Internet. If it permitted peer to peer, how could they check and prevent commercial use? Best suggestion is don't upgrade if you have it working using an older version else risk losing this functionality.

12 volt is fine if your power supply consistently outputs a full 12v and your mini computer isn't too demanding. The quoted voltage range of my Intel NUC i5 with Iris Plus 640 Graphics is "12v to 19v +/- 10%". What I found was that it sometimes spluttered when using my Tracer 8Ah or MaxOak K2 at 12v because it requires over 40 watts at peak and these degraded to around 11.7 volts after a comparatively short period of use. You need a truly dependable 12v source, especially if adding camera, focusser etc to its demands. More successful was using my MaxOak at 20v and reserving 12v for other devices. That actually measured 19.3v, so it is clear manufacturers boast optimum outputs not averages! Frankly, I had so many other problems with power, hubs and wireless, I eventually brought my NUC indoors, ran 'active' USB3 to it from camera then Thunderbolt cable to 4K UHD monitor. At last, 100% reliability as I could use a mains electricity adapter, and still wirelessly control my scope using Celestron WiFi and MKIT20-WL wireless focusser. In summary, the WiFi routes are fine in most situations, but we are ever closer to position where the latest cameras and computers are demanding more power and better connectivity and hence more preparation is necessary.

To be clear, the two computer wireless solution (e.g. using RDT or TeamViewer) is wholly fine for regular Astrophotography as you are processing all data on the primary (one assumes more powerful) computer at the scope and simply using the other computer merely a 'dumb terminal' indoors to control everything. But if your intention is Electronically Assisted Astronomy (EAA) surely you want to see fully optimised images on the indoor display screen? If your camera and primary (outdoor) computer are 4k 'UHD' enabled then you will lose benefits by putting a mere 1080p 'HD' laptop indoors, and that is before any degradation of image caused by the TeamViewer (or RDT screen) replication process over WiFi that creates a marginally more grainy image on screen. The difference isn't conspicuous until one uses direct 'Thunderbolt' or HDMI cable to a 4K UHD monitor. Of course, if your camera has (say) merely 1920 x 1080 resolution this will be of little consequence as 'HD' is its limit. But recent developments in CMOS make large sensor high resolution 4k UHD (16 megapixel) EAA viewing more affordable. My experience is that wireless might then be too slow and of lesser display quality compared to cable. You will be lucky to get 400kb/s data transfer rates using the free version of TeamViewer even over 802.11ac wireless as it forces you to connect via the Internet (but why.....are they looking at your data?). Peer to peer (without Internet) is only possible with the full cost version of TeamViewer or Remote Desktop that requires Win 10 Pro. With regular AP you don't need file data to migrate between the two computers. However with EAA you at least want primary quality video output to your (indoors) display device.

If you have (say) a 16 megapixel camera beware of the limitations of the TeamViewer/RDP wireless two computer route. I found the video compression degrades the image quality on the (indoor) laptop screen. It's fine for low resolution cameras, but I now connect my Atik Horizon to Intel NUC with Iris Plus Graphics by long 'active' USB3 then use Thunderbolt display cable to a 4K UHD monitor. Over longer distance Cat 6 or other of the solutions are necessary, but cable is better than wireless if you want to grow your system into end to end 4K UHD and use all the benefits of having a large sensor high resolution camera. The free (non-commercial) version of TeamViewer forces you to connect to the slow Internet. You can use <Send To> to wirelessly transfer files but expect about 400kbs/s. Remote Desktop does offer peer to peer independent of the Internet, but requires an upgrade to Windows 10 Pro. I then tried scope control using Celestron Nexremote. The problem with that is it converts a Serial output to USB and demands Windows 8 compatibility mode. Sadly, USB3, USB2 and Serial won't always play nicely. In summary, I spent £££££'s on the wireless dream. I got it working. But suffered so much lag, drop outs and similar I reverted to cable for Camera ONLY as described. However, I use Celestron direct WiFi for scope control and a MKIT20-WL wireless focusser, none of which require a local Network or Internet. It is a more expensive solution, and I have invested in full 4K UHD experience. But it delivers the results I was seeking. You might find wireless to be a tedious challenge unless your camera is low resolution basic requiring low watt-hours, low data transfer and looks OK on a low resolution display.

This week has again justified why I have committed to Hyperstar, camera and EAA in my light polluted back yard in Essex which are necessary to see anything beyond the solar system at my locality. I am just about to return to Essex after four nights in the Kieder Forest dark skies site in Norhumberland. It was sunny and reasonably clear most days, but wall to wall cloud after dark. This follows three similar four day trips to the Kelling Heath dark sky site in Norfolk during the last twelve months that were also blighted by similar cloud. I have to plan such trips weeks ahead and weather forecasting is too imprecise. I reckon I have wasted enough money on fuel and accommodation to have bought a second quality telescope with camera and Hyperstar. Thankfully, EAA is my salvation. Can't wait to get home; utterly fed up with castles, bleak hillsides and Hadrians Wall; and it is only a 350 mile drive today.....

Using Android tablet connected to BT WiFi. Other sites running well. SGL intermittently slow to load.

1. A Starsense autoalign (no wedge) works fine over WiFi via SkySafari 2. A Starsense auto-align on wedge works fine over WiFi via SkySafari. However, this is subtly different from a Starsense All Star Polar Align on wedge which is still NOT possible via an APP. But.... 3. The infamous Starsense ASPA bug is now fixed in the Hand Controller and a firmware update is desirable. Then why not first do a Starsense ASPA polar align with the HC (easy!). Then when your mount is physically aligned, recycle power and conclude with a Starsense Auto-Align in wedge via WiFi/SkySafari to adopt WiFi control. 4. Indeed, why not just set your wedge to your latitude and jump straight into a Starsense auto-align on wedge via the APP. Unless doing very long exposures, the results are quite good. But not as perfect as the HC ASPA. Here is why.... The ASPA (3) genuinely tracks in RA Only. The Starsense wedge auto-align tracks in Sidereal. But as you have prior set the wedge to your latitude, DEC movement is negligible and Nil if properly polar Aligned by ASPA. I hope this makes sense!

I use the Evolution wedge, and that adds 15lbs. It is very robust and stable. I have no experience of the HD Pro wedge but my guess is that it offers no advantage for Evolution 8" owners. The weight of the Evolution Wedge is plenty enough for me, and I don't envisage the HD Pro adding to stability, only a hike in price.

One can perform an All Star Polar Alignment (ASPA) on a Celestron Alt-Az mount on a wedge when using a Nexstar + HC. I get down to a Polar Alignment Error measured in arc-seconds, commensurate with any GEM. This route requires good basic alignment skills. However, if you have mastered a routine 'two star align' it is no more difficult. Just follow the instructions in the HC for an EQNorth, then Polar Align (then conclude with further EQNorth). However, it would be much easier, faster, convenient and GoTos even more accurats if this process was possible with a Starsense auto-align. However, a 'bug' has frustrated wedge owners for nigh on three years. Starsense works fine on a GEM or Alt-Az, but not on a wedge, UNTIL NOW. The good news is that Celestron has fixed the bug in the Starsense HC wedge routine and the updated firmware is in beta-test via TeamCelestron. A public release is imminent. Like the Nexstar + HC this routine offers a complete ASPA including software aided elimination of any residual Polar Alignment Error (e.g. firmware tells you the knob adjustment necessary). The other good news is that Simulation Curriculum has fixed a similar bug in the SkyPortal APP (not yet fixed in the SkySafari APP). Here you set 'Starsense Auto-Align' and 'Starsense on wedge' via the SkyPortal APP then set your wedge to your latitude; then tube to its index marks pointing South. Then <connect & align>. This offers an excellent Starsense Auto-Align on a severely leaning mount. GoTo's are highly accurate. I then tracked VEGA for over an hour without any noticeable drift, suffice for modest length longer exposure astrophotography provided your mount is level, your wedge latitude correct and your Tube start point South. However, this is NOT an ASPA. This routine does not guide you to do any final tweaks to eliminate any residual PAE error. It hence won't be quite as accurate as any "polar align" performed by the HC. But for those with modest aspirations that like using Starsense via WiFi APP, it will be pretty good. However, what you can now do is first use a Nexstar + HC to complete an ASPA. Return tube to its index marks on the now physically polar aligned wedge/mount. Recycle power; and proceed with a Starsense auto-align using either HC or WiFi/tablet. So you then have the benefit of an accurate ASPA plus the subsequent joy of Starsense superior GoTo accuracy. It is a great compromise. When the Starsense HC bug firmware release is in the public domain, I will add to this thread. Hope this guidance is helpful to wedge owners with Starsense.