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john2y

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About john2y

  • Rank
    Star Forming

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  • Location
    Brno, Czech Republic
  1. john2y

    IC443 Jellyfish SHO

    Hey guys, so this was the target I was planning getting 30 hours on, 10h for each channel. Well winter said nuh uh so I have one hour of Ha and hour and a half for Oiii and Sii and now when the sky is slightly better I can't see it from my balcony so it's over for this year. I would've post this much earlier but I somehow forgot that I didn't process this one. I processed it in Pixinsight and I'm quite proud about the denoising job I did while saving much of the details so it doesn't look too "ironed out" I've decided to skip the deconvolution even though it would definitely help to make the structures more visible but I probably had bad star mask and it was doing really bad stuff to the stars. I also didn't reduced the stars as I don't feel that it would help anything. Taken with ES 102/714+0.8x reducer with ASI1600MM Pro and ZWO NB filters. P.S. The star above is too bright and it causes microlensing on the sensor, there's nothing I can do about it. It's probably the only bad thing about this camera but I still really love it.
  2. Hey guys, few weeks ago I got myself the EAGLE3 by Primaluce Lab as a replacement of my 8 year old laptop to control my whole setup. Even though I'm saving up for a new mount this was my priority as my laptop refused to start when the battery, optical drive or keyboard were connected so I always had to remove the keyboard, start the laptop and then reconnect it and I was really afraid that it's gonna die on me and I wouldn't be able to shoot. Even though I'm not promoting it in this review I should disclose that I got it for better price as I'm working with Primalucelab on Instagram. I got the EAGLE3 Q which is the same as the base model but with slightly better cpu. It has Intel pentium 1,5GHz quadcore cpu, 4GB of ram and 120GB SSD. The build quality is excellent, I already had their Sesto Senso motorised focuser and I knew that they're doing a great job building these things. The body is anodized aluminium with red finish and the bottom and top parts are filled with holes for easy mounting of it in whatever way you wish to do it. The sides are full of USB ports (4x2.0 + 4x3.0), it has three ports for heating and the back has 4 power outputs for powering your gear. The Eagle has Windows 10 Enterprise edition and on startup it launches their control software, so you can decide what to power and what ports will be active. It took me a while to get everything ready for imaging as I had to install all drivers, and programs. The only problem I had was with SGP not seeing my mount but it turned out I forgot to install driver for the RS-232 to USB converter, after that it worked flawlessly. Then I spent couple of nights just catching some bugs in form of tweaking settings. Integrating it into my imaging train was quite easy and I've decided to sandwich it between my main telescope and guidescope, probably most used type of integration. I got mine with better power adapter which can provide sufficient power to the eagle so it can power other things like camera cooler and ZWO power adapter. I'm planning on getting a new mount soon so I'll be getting power cable for it too and also for the focuser so my setup will have just one power cable coming out of it. The cable management with this thing is awesome. No hanging cables anymore and I got rid of the power brick for my ASI camera which I had attached with velcro to one of the tripod legs and it had bad habit of falling and pulling on my telescope while imaging. Pros: It is durable, quite fast pc, it can control your whole setup and cable managing is great with it. Cons: Definitely price, there are way cheaper options like ASIAIR. So far I haven't figured out how to reliably control it with TeamViewer without it loosing the connection so I'm forced to use Remote desktop. Also my unit hat only 40GBs of storage when I got it and the rest was locked in hidden partition but this was fixed immediately when I contacted the tech support. I really love this thing as it solved the problems I had with my old pc and I finally control everything remotely. The cable management is as I've said awesome and build quality too. BUT to be completely honest I wouldn't get it for the full price, I was actually looking for a miniPC something like Intel nuc which is half the price. What I'm trying to say is that with a little bit more work and a few compromises, you can get quite close to the Eagle with cheaper alternatives. On the other hand, the Eagle is made for astrophotography and it will make things much easier. I hope this can help out some people who are considering purchasing this thing and I also hope I didn't butcher the English too much Here is the timelapse from the first night where everything worked as it should be, completely controlled by the eagle.
  3. Hey guys, I'm planning on getting CEM60 this spring and I can't decide whether I should buy it with the regular iOptron tripod or if I should invest in the Tri-pier. I'm mostly shooting from the balcony and what interests me the most about the tri-pier is whether you can rotate the legs around the pier or if it's fixed to some position since I would want to put it as close to the railing as possible and with tripod I can't do that. Also what's the maximal height you can set the tri-pier to? Because it would be useless if I could put it really close to the railing and the counterweight bar would start hitting it. Thanks for replies Jan
  4. john2y

    Pacman interior

    This is some incredible detail. Well done!
  5. john2y

    Orion M42

    Great data, like the wide field from yesterday, just don't pull so hard on those curves, I know you're trying to bring up as much nebulosity as you can but less is more, try to process it with just gentle pulling those curves and don't denoise it that much, you're loosing details because of it. What are you using for post processing?
  6. john2y

    Barnard's Loop

    So after looking at it. I understand that you've always wanted the Barnard's loop and I'm sorry to crush your dream but the combination of the faintness of the nebula with the original filter in your dslr that cuts a lot of the red light coming in, you'd need a lot more time to pull it off in a way that it would be really visible. The data is great, that's a fact, the loop is there too, you've demonstrated it above but the loops visibility closely corresponds with the noisiness of the image. After a few minutes I've realised that if I sacrifice the loop I can work with great data, Horshead, Orion nebula, Witch head and a ton of molecular dust. I've done a background extraction, colour cal, background neutralisation, I stretched it using histogram and then created star mask to shrink them and also protect them when I started playing with the curves on the background, then I removed some of the green, made stars a little less saturated and the Orion nebula a little more HDR, then I moved it to photoshop to remove some of the chromatic aberration you had there but not all since it would desaturated most of the image. It's 15min job so it's not great but again, you have really good data so it was really easy working with it. If I had more time I would also get rid of some of the hues in the background.
  7. john2y

    Barnard's Loop

    Regarding the green it also depends on the colour reproduction of the monitor you're using. Mine tends to boost green everywhere if you'd be willing to upload the stacked tiff I could take a look at that and see what can be done when it's processed in Pixinsight and don't worry the processing is like walking, once you learn it, it's just a routine.
  8. john2y

    Barnard's Loop

    Don't reduce the stars that much, instead of round spots, you got bunch of weird shapes. Sometimes less is more, maybe also reduce the green in the background so it's more natural and don't push so hard on denoising, some noise is always better than details drowning in the smoothness
  9. john2y

    M42 WIP

    Thank you guys, hopefully the weather will get better so I can finish it before it rolls behind a building.
  10. john2y

    M42 WIP

    I've been gathering data for this bad boy for such a long time, I started with 4 hours of Ha and continued with RGB, the problem is that for the last 6 weeks I haven't had a clear night, so I've decided to process what I got so far. I still need to add data on the colours where I have only 60min on each channel and also take really short shots of the core because even with HDR tools in Pixi and lots of fiddling in photoshop I can't see anything but overall I think it looks half decent. Taken with Explore Scientific 120/714 APO Triplet with 0,8 reducer resulting in 571mm focal length and f5,6 on ASI1600MM Pro. Cheers Jan P.S. I'm aware of the bad flat on the blue filter and some fragments from I don't know what, I'll take care of it when it's finished
  11. Hey guys, so I've been saving up for Cem60 for quite a while now and I was planning on getting it together with the iOptron Tri-pier. The problem is that my current mount is dying and I thought that I would get just the mount and the tri-pier later. There is a iOptron Pier top plate for Cem60 and I was wondering if any of you has an experience with fitting it on tripod legs for Celestron CG5 ADV GT. Cheers Jan
  12. Here is a gif of the comet made from 1 hour of exposures. The blinking is caused by passing clouds. Explore Scientific 102/714 + 0,8x reducer, shot on ASI1600MM Pro 50x60s
  13. john2y

    NGC 2237 Rosette WIP

    Thank you, unity gain and 3mins because as I'm shooting from the city the mean readout would be really high with longer exposures. I'm considering lowering gain and extending the exposures some time, but I want to finish few projects before that. With 3 minute subs I have about 1600-2000 mean.
  14. john2y

    Ha filter size?

    Keep in mind that if you'll get colour camera, that it has bayer mask and if you'll use it with Ha filter, only 25% of the light will get to the sensor and you have to subtract another 19% from those 25% due to the quantum efficiency losses. Also I wouldn't really recommend ASI178 for deepsky, it has tiny sensor with tiny pixels. In that regard I think that ASI294 is much better way to go, I know it's more expensive but it has much bigger sensor, pixels and resolution. If you look at the comparison of the two, the 294MC Pro is the winner https://compare.astronomy-imaging-camera.com/ About the filter size, you don't need 2'' filter, your optics aren't that fast to get any vignetting with 1.25'' filter. Just get 1.25'' adapter to the telescope and use the smaller filter and the money you save up on the filter use for the better ASI camera ;-)
  15. john2y

    NGC 2237 Rosette WIP

    Thank you Martin Thank you, hopefully soon. Indeed, without nb I wouldn't be able to shoot it at all since I shoot from the balcony in the middle of big city, Bortle 8 but my cottage occasionally saves the day. I have the cheapest version with Hoya FCD-1-ED, I'm quite happy with it though I'm considering switching to RC in a couple of years.
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