Jump to content

Stargazers Lounge Uses Cookies

Like most websites, SGL uses cookies in order to deliver a secure, personalised service, to provide social media functions and to analyse our traffic. Continued use of SGL indicates your acceptance of our cookie policy.

noah4x4

Members
  • Content Count

    648
  • Joined

  • Last visited

Community Reputation

563 Excellent

1 Follower

About noah4x4

  • Rank
    Proto Star

Profile Information

  • Location
    Colchester
  1. A simple Jennov POE (3MP) is a remarkably good bit of kit for merely £35.90 (it's an Amazon "Choice"). The joy is that being POE one cable carries both power and data. The unit itself is tiny. However, the issue you need to consider with any CCTV camera is data storage. It will soon fill up a hard drive if continuously recording (say) a 28 day cycle. Ideally, you need a network video recorder (about £100).
  2. There was a slow loading version. However version 2.3.5 beta1 (released this week in TeamCelestron) loads fast and fixes some gamepad and hot key bugs.
  3. A larger sensor than the three small cameras discussed is generally an advantage. But too large a sensor for any particular scope and that can provoke vignetting. However, with something like an ASI294, if using Sharpcap, you can use region of Interest (ROI) to crop and mitigate this.
  4. I suggest you also use this tool to check out field of view of each camera. http://astronomy.tools/calculators/field_of_view/ The common challenge with all three of the budget cameras are that they have small sensors. That is fine for planets and smaller DSOs. However, as you will see from the FOV tool on larger DSOs they offer a narrow field. Think of these a bit like eyepieces. They are perhaps the equivalent of 12mm when for most DSOs you might be choosing 32mm. Using a focal reducer will assist. The other issue with a small FOV you need a very good alignment to get your target into FOV. You then need a decent quality mount with good tracking to keep the object in FOV. I have the ASI224mc, but would use it only for planets. I would turn to my ASI294 or Atik Horizon for DSOs. Unfortunately, there is no one size camera fits all. The ASI294 or ASI533 are probably the best all round compromises, but do require much more budget. But if you can't spend more, I suspect the ASI385mc would serve you best, albeit it has a 1/2" sensor and 2.12mp resolution.
  5. Caution with low budget mini-PCs. It is easy to underestimate computing power. If all you are doing is capturing and saving subs at a frame rate of 0.2 per second (e.g. 5 second exposures) for next day processing. You need trivial computing power. But if running at a frame rate of 120 FPS (as you might for planetary,) you inevitably need more. But then there is the question of camera resolution. For example, a 11.7 megapixel ZWO ASI294 Pro inevitably demands far more ooomph than a 1.2 megapixel ASI224mc, assuming the latter isn't running at its incredible maximum of 577 FPS. Next consider live stacking in (say) Sharpcap. If using the maximum resolution and FOV you need more computing power than if you select a smaller Region of Interest. If doing traditional long exposure Astrophotography you need much less power than for EAA (EEVA). Many traditional Astrophotographers will recommend low powered computers because that is all they need. They then process the FITS that they have captured next day. By contrast, the EAA observer probably saves subs, live stacks, captures video, broadcasts (etc), all on the fly. I additionally stream 4K UHD screen data to my indoor mission control using WiFi and Windows Remote Desktop. Inevitably, all these factors compound. I found a seventh generation i5 with 4Gb RAM too slow with my Atik Horizon simply because as an EAA observer doing all the above the demand was extreme. I now use an eighth generation i7 with 16Gb RAM and get the real time performance that I seek. However, an i5 with 8 Gb RAM should meet most needs. But here be cautious. A older generation i7 might be slower than a new i3. In summary, be absolutely clear what camera, what tasks and what other circumstances will apply. Astrophotography is a broad church. Yesterday, I read a question in another forum why a ZWO ASI294 runs slower in daytime than at night. The simple answer, in daylight you might be capturing 6 millisecond frames when at night it's more likely to be 6 second frames. Res Ipsa Locquitor.
  6. The BT discs probably don't have any greater range, but MESH together well if you can form a chain so that the signal can hop between them. Each needs 12v 2A power, normally supplied by mains adapter, but I suspect you could use something like a lead acid battery if not available. But over longer distances, there are more powerful WiFi devices. Take a look at the Ubiquiti range. These operate over up to 300 feet or more. But my Netgear EX8000 wireless extender is very good over lesser distances.
  7. I always remove camera/Hyperstar as I need to carry my fully assembled scope back indoors and I fear perhaps cracking it on patio doors and smashing my corrector plate. However, despite its frequent removal, I have never had problems with Hyperstar collimation ever since I fully screwed down the components. There is an article on Cloudy Nights about Hyperstar collimation. But if you reach its conclusion the final tilt required by the author is less than the width of a human hair. That's why I decided to just lock down Hyperstar with no tilt (which is often advised by Starizona) as there was no way that my skill or my mount could justify that precision. The critical adjustment is actually the position of the Fastar secondary mirror holder and the corrector plate which is factory set. Provided you have never meddled with those components they will remain screwed tight. Hence collimation of Hyperstar is less necessary. If you do need to cover it, I would suggest a large cloth pump bag of the type kids keep their trainers in.
  8. Evolution Wedge is now sold and has been delivered to Joshlac.
  9. I suspect you can use multiple such Nighthawk units to extend a MESH network, but I have never done it. It comes with significant instruction manual that you can download online if you want to investigate this in advance of purchase. My reason for selling is, like you, I needed a few more feet range into the garden. I wasn't sure how to do this with the Nighthawk system, but my neighbour had success with the new BT WholeHome WiFi discs that are easy to extend simply by adding more discs. I bought a BT three pack for £179 and it did the job. A second Nighthawk was £170, so I figured the BT route with its two extra discs was better value as a new purchase, plus adding discs is easy. But, at £85 my original Nighthawk is aggressively priced for sale and it does extend range from a router. It is advertised by the manufacturer as having "2,500 square feet range", which suggests a bridge of around 50 feet. Frankly, I reckon 30 feet is more realistic, but my house has foil lined insulation boards so it's a bit like a Faraday Cage and challenging. It worked to my scope, but not to my more distant detached garage I use as my mission control, that requires three signal 'hops'.
  10. Yes complete, boxed, with both large and small brackets.
  11. I think this could confuse some people, so let me clarify... A SkyPortal WiFi device can connect your scope to either a tablet/phone (using SkyPortal or SkySafari APP) or connect to a laptop (using CPWI). These devices then replace the hand controller. Celestron third generation SkyPortal WiFi usually works fine, but it's range is short and in densely populated urban locations can occasionally be a bit flaky as it depends on the cluttered 2.4Ghz channel that is also known to conflict with nearby USB3 devices (like cameras). In the 'great outdoors' away from urban clutter there is greater stability. In both cases where computer control is employed rather than HC, then GPS is not normally required as date/time can be sourced from the control devices <location services>. However, this only works if the control device has recently been connected to the Internet at that location (time will normally be fine). If at a different location where there is no Internet signal (dark sky site?) then GPS can be of assistance as regards determining location. A thought here, if you can't connect to the Internet, it might not be easy to determine your latitude and longitude (has caught me out!). The reported problem is that this combination sometimes doesn't work. There seems to be an issue when Windows is wrestling with multiple Celestron devices (Starsense + GPS + Focuser) and one or other isn't recognised by CPWI. However, GPS works fine in isolation with Starsense and HC. Hence, I only use my SkySync GPS with Starsense or Nexstar + HC where it is helpful. But if using a control device with Internet access is in proximity, you don't require GPS.
  12. This was actually a relevant question,. The Starsense HC is the older version with Serial port. You therefore need the Celestron serial adapter cable (or WiFi) to update it in future. However, I will ensure the HC firmware is fully updated before sale. The 4SE mount hasn't needed a firmware update for around ten years.
  13. If you arrange collection etc, that could work. However it is a pretty large box and it weighs about 16lbs.
  14. All items are in full working order and in excellent condition - but out of warranty. I now have more advanced kit and would like this past cherished equipment to find a new home. Can supply photographs of the actual items to interested buyers, but have shown links below to a fully detailed specification. All items are offered for sale at half of the current list price (example; using Amazon UK). No offers. Buyer collects from Essex (cash on collection please). 1. Celestron Evolution Wedge (boxed, rarely used) £140 SOLD - Sorry to others enquiring. 2. Nexstar 4SE with mount/tripod £250 (no box, but have original packaging materials in plastic container). (see https://www.amazon.co.uk/Celestron-11049-NexStar-Computerised-Telescope/dp/B000GUFOBO/ref=sr_1_1?dchild=1&keywords=nexstar+4se&qid=1589883971&sr=8-1). 3. StarSense Auto-Align accessory £160 (currently fitted to Nexstar 4SE ) SOLD. 4. Celestron NexImage Burst planetary colour camera £75 (have box and packaging). (See https://www.amazon.co.uk/Celestron-95518-NexImage-Burst-Black/dp/B00K6DZ6XC/ref=sr_1_1?dchild=1&keywords=neximage+burst&qid=1589884016&sr=8-1). 5. Lilliput 7" 1280 x 800 field (339) monitor with HDMI and AV input. Runs off a 12v supply. Handy for field use. £50. (see https://www.lilliputuk.com/monitors/hdmi/lilliput-339/). 6. Netgear X6x EX8000 wireless extender/booster £85 (See https://www.amazon.co.uk/NETGEAR-Wi-Fi-Range-Extender-EX8000/dp/B0756NR1C4/ref=sr_1_19?dchild=1&hvadid=80126941779141&hvbmt=bp&hvdev=c&hvqmt=p&keywords=netgear+nighthawk&qid=1589884896&sr=8-19)
  15. You need somewhere free of light pollution, unobstructed views with car parking and yet few people at night. I left the area 30 years ago, but I recall the top of Clee Hill (26 miles from Worcester) met that criteria. Malvern is higher (highest point if you travel due East until you get to the Ural mountains), but doesn't have the same quality of road access. It's no coincidence that the NATs Radar used for flight tracking run along the spine of Clee Hill.
×
×
  • Create New...

Important Information

By using this site, you agree to our Terms of Use.