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noah4x4

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Everything posted by noah4x4

  1. An All STAR Polar Alignment (ASPA) won't work with solar system objects. The clue is in its title. Then; 1. Set up with OTA at its Evolution index marks. 2. In the Northern Hemisphere it should be aimed South (at its index marks).. Do so using a compass as the more accurate this is, the lesser the Polar Alignment Error (PAE) to be eliminated. 3. Adjust latitude scale. Your OTA opening will now be aimed at the Celestial Equator and your mount arm leaning North. 4. Using Nexstar + HC perform an EqNorth align using two Stars. 5. Now perform an All Star Polar Alignment. When prompted, you will adjust wedge knobs to physically adjust scope to eliminate PAE. 6. I then recycle power. Using Evolution Clutches, I return my OTA to its index marks. 7. Complete process with a further EQNorth Align. If using Starsense, you replace the two EqNorth alignments with regular auto-align. Note; it is vital that your mount and HC's are running the latest firmware. There was a bug in the ASPA routine until about two years ago. But allowing for shipping, it is common for Evolution firmware to be out of date. The manuals are hopeless. The SE Series still refer to 'wedge align' which has been replaced by ASPA.
  2. I bought my Hyperstar and Camera simultaneously and my (UK) retailer sensibly phoned Dean at Starizona to check if it needed a different adapter from tne Hyperstar in stock to achieve backfocus. It did. Four days later, I received the correct model shipped from the USA. Pairing camera with the correct adapter appears crucial. A phone call to Starizina should assist you.
  3. It sounds like De Solve It "Sticky Stuff Remover" might assist here. Softens and removes sticky residues (from tape, labels), also chewing gum and perished rubber. However, the apply baby powder before affixing makes sense. Or why not put a strip of silk or similar fabric between rings and OTA.
  4. Rapid Electronics based in Colchester (Internet order) sell them for around £1.50 + VAT + P & P. Realise you have fixed, but this supplier is worth knowing as they stock 40,000 products.
  5. The reason recent 'free' versions of TeamViewer insist that you connect to the Internet is so they can monitor for commercial use. If you pay a monthly commercial subscription, this isn't a requirement. Frankly, I don't like the idea of anybody (TeamViewer, VNC, Chrome) monitoring my activity. I therefore paid my £119 to get Windows 10 Pro Remote Desktop; which will play nicely over a 5Ghz local WAN or Ethernet cable without any Internet connection. Windows 10 Pro offers so much extra control. It is much superior to overbloated Home. Still has annoying Google/Microsoft accounts if you choose to use them, but you can turn off all such intrusions if you only use your PC for astro and don't need Internet support.
  6. If your telescope requires 12 volts (force) and draws 2 Amps (current), a quality 12v battery rated 12 volts 8 Amp Hours (Ah = capacity ) will supply power for four hours (8 Ah/2 amps = 4 hours) assuming it can supply continuous current exceeding 2 amps. Beware, some cheap asian manufactured batteries claim large capacity amp hours (Ah) but offer low continuous current. If the continuous current offered exceeds that drawn by the device it will only take what it needs. However, if the continuous current is too low there could be problems resulting in damage. Similarly if too few or too many volts. Power might be expressed in watts. Watts = amps x volts. Hence if a scope was rated 24 watts and 12 volts it needs 2 amps. I mention this as most AC/DC bricks supplied with telescopes are rated in Volts and Watts and you might need to convert the current required to amps. 24 watts/12 volts means it needs 2 amps. A 10 Amp hour battery offering 2 amps would then last five hours. Again beware, cheap batteries have discharge curves that overstate their capabilities. 12 volts might rapidly deplete to perhaps 9.6v.
  7. Good solution! For astronomy I use (UK) 240v/12v AC/DC as I never leave home. But when I did, I used a 12v 22Ah Tracer Li-Po for camera, focuser etc and 20v MaxOak K2 for Intel NUC. If I had my time again, I would pursue an Inverter solution (much cheaper!). For example ; I am also involved with outdoor sports broadcasting away from any mains supply. There I use a 12v 18Ah mobility scooter battery. I then use a Bestek 12v/240v 300 watt inverter from that to offer me the equivalent of local mains power. I can then use regular AC/DC (or POE) 'bricks' to distribute power at the 24v, 18v and 12v I need for different devices. It might be wise to get a 400 watt or even higher wattage Inverter for astronomy, but that depends on the demands of your kit.
  8. It's from similar practical experience Michael. The problem with modern laptops and mini-computers is to keep costs low their on-board graphics 'steal' system resources (like RAM). Some, like the budget end Intel NUCs natively have only 4 Gb RAM. Of course, if Windows 10 has gobbled most of your available resources, then the PC looks to your even slower HDD (SSD is better). A quite modest APP (like PHD) can push you over the brink and the system then inexplicably hangs. However, some recent astro APPs are very resource consuming (example Celestron CPWI). My camera ran fine with 4Gb RAM with SG Pro until I added CPWI. As I said earlier, I then blamed USB/WiFi and unnecessarily spent £££££'s upgrading WiFi, when an upgrade to 8 Gb was all that was required. This problem with Windows 10 bloatware is why so many proprietory (all in one box) solutions use the far less resource greedy Linux O/S. Shame Windows 7 is no longer supported by Microsoft! One other point of possible note. I was running my camera with either Atik Infinity software and/or Sequence Generator Pro. When learning the more challenging SG Pro, I was using Infinity to secure close(ish) focus as its FWHM focus tool is easy to use then switch to SG Pro to enable autofocus and benefit from its superior HFR methodology. SG Pro requires ASCOM camera drivers. I found that if I closed SG Pro and switched to Infinity, my computer will invariably hang. I attribute this to it getting confused over drivers. My point here is that a laptop that regularly hangs can be attributable to more than USB cables. But my experience with USB2 was poor beyond 5 metres, even with hubs/active cables. With USB3 it was 3 metres with my data hungry camera. Good luck, hope you find a solution. But do consider the limitations of your RAM.
  9. XP and Windows 10 are entirely different. Windows 10 will itself gobble 4Gb of RAM. A Windows XP laptop with slower processor and lesser RAM can often outperform a newer laptop. Windows 10 is ghastly resource hungry. I spent a year blaming WiFi and USB for my Windows 10 computer hanging when running astro programs and consequently spent a huge amount of money on powered hubs, active cables, WiFi extenders etc. Eventually, the simple addition of 4Gb RAM (£30) to give me 8gb fixed it. Then I upgraded to 16 Gb and it flies. All I am saying is if you can't resolve your problem by other routes, borrow a faster laptop with more RAM and at least eliminate this possibility.
  10. I will lay a bet your 'laptop hanging' problem is nothing to do with USB. What processor and RAM does it have? My mini-PC with a 7i5 processor would repeatedly hang until I upgraded RAM from 4Gb to 8 Gb. The problem is if you overload the in-board graphics, a laptop (or mini) will 'steal from system memory that is already choked by the demands of Windows. How much RAM you might need depends on processor and graphics. 16Gb is more comfortable.
  11. Take a look at a cricket equipment 'coffin'. They come in both old fashioned rectangular boxes and deeply padded cloth. Often wheeled too. Try Morants online cricket shop.
  12. Hi Steve, I have a 16 megapixel Atik Horizon resolution camera and use a 4K UHD display. An ASI294 is 11.7 megapixel. We are now in the era of large sensor, high resolution CMOS. My suggestion below reflects this. However, if you buy a lesser specification camera you can inevitably succeed with lesser computing power. But I suggest buy for your NEXT camera to build some future proofing. My original NUC had a 2.2 Ghz i5-7260U processor, Iris plus graphics 640 and 4Gb RAM. Frankly, this would occasionally splutter or even crash. The problem is that as the level of graphics intensive processing rises then it will 'steal' from system RAM. I reckon 4Gb is today too little in any PC used for astronomy purposes. I increased RAM to 8Gb and it worked fine. However, satisfaction depends upon whether you are an 'imager' or 'observer' (or in-between). If taking two second stacked exposures, these might take five seconds to process. This perhaps doesn't matter to 'imagers', but as an 'observer' seeking near live viewing experience I got a tad frustrated. I now have a i7-8559U with Iris Plus Graphics 655 and 16 Gb RAM. It flies in real time. This high specification NUC cost £867. However, one only needs to add a keyboard, mouse and 4K Monitor to have a 4K UHD system for less than half the cost of the cheapest 4k laptop. For the dumb terminal that controls the NUC under Windows Remote Desktop you don't need anything as powerful.
  13. Missing from these cost calculations are laptop or mini-computer. I know that is often considered a standard requirement with any camera because we have long been accustomed to (say) 1.2 megapixel CCDs. However, I urge caution about this requirement with data hungry large sensor, high resolution CMOS like ASI294, ASI1600 or Atik Horizon (BTW, the Horizon read noise is astonishingly low). To comfortably run a ZWO ASI294 (10.7 megapixel) or my Atik Horizon (16 megapixel) even in 1920 x 1200 resolution (n.b. both cameras can handle a 4K UHD output), my advice is that you are best served by a computer with a decent CPU and at least 8 GB RAM if processing stacked 4 second exposures. It can be done 'slower' with lesser CPU power/RAM, but if as a result, processing time per exposure exceeeds actual exposure time, then a minute total integration time (24 x 4 seconds) inevitably becomes a lot longer. That might be fine for 'imaging' (........some folk wait all night for long exposures!), but can be a tad frustarting for 'observing' and EEVA now seems to embrace enthusisats at each end of the spectrum. I am an observer and seek 'real time'. Probably without much justification in truth, but don't you just hate the stacking progress bar being so slow? A problem is that laptops and minicomputers tend to 'steal' system RAM if under intensive graphics load causing camera sofware to run more slowly. Much depends on graphics card, but their on-board graphics are often inferior to desktops. Frankly, I found a 7i5-2600 processor with Iris Plus 640 Graphics would often crash due to inadequate resources with only 4 Gb RAM. It would run with 8Gb RAM, but still quite slowly, and it took a 8i7-8550 with 16 Gb before it ran in 'real time'. Some mini-computers (like cheaper NUCs) are supplied with only 4GB RAM so it is easy to be caught out. A contributory factor is Windows 10 demands signifcant system resources. LINUX and can reduce this load. My point is that when considering budget in any ultimate system, with the advent of CMOS, choice of computer is becoming more significant. Hence, that battered old laptop might not suffice, albeit that if running (unsupported) Windows 7 it is probably faster than if running Windows 10.
  14. Assembly is really easy Steve. The two ABS electronic project junction boxes are 200mm x 75mm x 120mm. I found these on Amazon for £10.99 each. However, Rapid Electronics offer a huge variety of sizes and it is a case of working out what size would best fit and meet your device needs. This size was perfect for my 8" Celestron Evolution or similar 8SE. I first cut a rectangle of 2 cm deep MDF of size 180mm x 120mm to fit the rear of the boxes (lid facing out).. Then divided that into two pieces 90mm x 120mm. Screw one piece to the left of one box and one to the right leaving a 20mm central channel/slot for the tripod rod (hence 200mm x 120mm overall).. Then screw second ABS box back to back to that. Obviously, you need to drill a few pilot holes for the tiny wood screws. The device will then slide up the tripod rod and sit on leg spreader. Neat and easy to remove for transport. Here is the contraption under construction (before MDF painted). Inside one ABS box I put the smallest two plug socket that I could find into which I plug in my 12v 5A 'brick' for camera and focuser and 19v 4A 'brick' for NUC. I dId try a single 12v 10A supply, but the NUC prefers 19v. The 'bricks' themselves fit into box two. This obviously requires drilling large holes between the boxes for the cables to pass through. Be careful not to obstruct the slot for tripod rod. I only observe from home, so use AC/DC power, however, if using (say) Li-po batteries, just purchase different sizes of ABS box to suit. It will then take a bit more thought. Similarly, if you have a less powerful NUC that has an outsize plug with built in transformer you then might need one box to be 200mm x 100mm x 120mm to accommodate it. Getting appropriate sized ABS boxes to fit between the sloping tripod legs and to accommodate your components is the design challenge. I confess, I had two attempts before I got this sizing right (hence I wasted two boxes). The VESA plate for NUC is bolted on using M3 nuts and bolts. Zacfron Velcro straps to hold focuser controller bolted on similarly (but could use sticky Velcro or adhesive). Cables between focuser and NUC neatly run through ABS boxes. Again, needs strategically positioned holes to be drilled. For connecting cables I drilled holes in the base, carefully avoiding the leg spreader. The cables from power supply, focuser controller and USB3 from NUC run through the ABS boxes emerging together from the hole drilled in the front lid, then run together in a 16mm spiral cable tidy to my OTA. This should all be fairly clear from the illustrations. The cables are sufficiently long to permit two 360 degree rotations of my mount, so that with cord wrap set it should be fine even if I can't see my scope in operation (I observe from indoors using Windows RDP remote control on a 4K UHD monitor). Setting up wireless remote control is a subject I have covered before in the EEVA Forum. Sequence Generator Pro is my control software of choice, but I believe Sharpcap Pro now offers many of its features. SG Pro seems to work far better with my Atik Horizon.
  15. This is my DIY "Eagle" solution. Two ABS project boxes are fixed back to back to a 2cm piece of MDF. A slot in the MDF allows these to slide onto my tripod leg spreader rod. A power cable, USB3 cable and focusser cable run in a single coiled cable tidy to my OTA/Camera/Focuser (hence ultra neat). By putting the weight below the centre of gravity my scope is easier to carry. The whole contraption slides on or off as one compact unit for transport. Externally, I have affixed an Intel NUC to one side (using VESA plate) and MKIT20 autofocusser controller to another (Velcro straps). Inside the ABS boxes are hidden the AC/DC power supplies plus all connecting cables. Again, it is ultra neat cable management. Then just a single cable to the floor to my mains supply (or to 12v/240v DC/AC Inverter/supply at a dark sky site, but most of my activity is at home). The item strapped to my mount carry arm is my Skysnc GPS unit. So only the white coiled spiral cable tidy extends below the point of rotation. The NUC runs Windows Remote Desktop with RemoteFX compression disabled. Sequence Generator Pro software (£99) controls camera and autofocusser (could also control other ASCOM devices such as auto-guider). I use Celestron CPWI (free) for remote scope control. Indoors, I use another PC as a dumb terminal to control scope side NUC over RDP. This all achieved wirelessly over a 5Ghz WAN. The two ABS boxes were circa £10 each. Intel NUC (series 8 i7/16Gb RAM) £800, but to mirror an Eagle Pro 3 specification a lesser NUC model would cost merely £500. My MKIT20 auto-focuser (£700) is state of the art, but a Celestron powered focuser is about £190. So for less than half the cost of an Eagle Pro 3 one can (DIY) produce a seriously capable all singing all dancing solution, and have extremely tidy cable management. EDIT One other thought I forgot, my camera is 16 megapixel and I disable RDP RemoteFX compression as that allows 4K UHD screen data to be received indoors and output to my 4k UHD monitor.
  16. Whoa! I think the clue to fixing this could be you only have 4Gb RAM. The way laptops and mini computers work with graphics intensive application is they 'steal' from system RAM. I struggled to keep my camera connected (and/or avoid crashes) until I upgraded to 8 Gb RAM. Given the low price of + 4Gb RAM, I would try that first (or another 8 Gb computer to test). It might also be worth doing a full Windows reset. But save all your personal files to memory stick first.
  17. I thought the table of specifications interesting. The Eagle 3 Pro has a processor with a CPU benchmark of 5139 and offers 16 Gb RAM and costs €1,995. A vastly more powerful Intel NUC i7--8559U that has a CPU benchmark of 12218 and offers 16Gb RAM costs merely €1027. However, I have been using a i5-7260U (benchmark 5641) NUC and 8 Gb RAM costing merely €610, yet is as high a computing specification as the Eagle 3 Pro. This NUC would support my 16 megapixel camera and 4K UHD display. I use a NUC running Windows 10 Pro, Sequence Generator Pro and autofocussing software at the scope. That is wirelessly controlled from a PC indoors using Windows Remote Desktop over a 5Ghz WAN. I affix NUC to a (€10) plastic electronics project box, and neatly run any cables inside that to my focusser controller affixed to its other side. This contraption is strapped to my scope. Perhaps not quite a visually appealing as the Eagle's red box, but painted with red gloss it might. However cable management is satisfactory. It seems to me that a DIY version of an Eagle 3 Pro can be constructed for under €800, even allowing for the purchase of Sequence Generator Pro that I perceive can control everything that most folk need. But for those that don't have the DIY skills, the Eagle can deliver at three times the DIY price.
  18. My wife received a replacement metal knob no bigger than a thimble for her KitchenAide food mixer in a cardboard box 12" x 12" x 12" that was full of paper packing. It would have fit in a DL envelope. What happened to save the planet? I was expecting a new Intel NUC which later arrived in an appropriate 6" x 6" x 6" box. Imagine my disappointment when I opened the larger first box and found a tiny knob!
  19. Depends entirely what camera and its demands, also what else you are running. For example, I had an i5-7260U Intel NUC with merely 4 Gb RAM and my 16 megapixel Atik Horizon camera spluttered. Worked somewhat better with 8 Gb RAM, but still a little slow, notably after I added the graphics intensive Celestron CPWI. My system now flies with an i7-8559U processor and 16 Gb RAM. A problem with both laptops and mini computers is that most steal system memory when loaded with graphics intensive applications. You definitely need an appropriate level of RAM if you choose a large sensor, high resolution CMOS. Conversely, folk with 1.2 megapixel cameras succeed with low specification laptops with modest RAM. If you can advise what camera and what else you will be running, we can offer more definitive advice.
  20. A Google enquiry throws up a paper compliled by Terence Wayland suggesting that Andrew Ross was born in 1798. Thomas Ross was not born until 1823. Andrew was works manager for WT Gilbert until 1828 when that firm went bankrupt. In 1830, Andrew Ross sets up in Albermarle Street and first marks his microscopes with serial numbers in 1842 and published a catalogue including several telescopes in that same year. One suspects that the practice of him marking telescopes had a similar commencement date. This well researched paper embraces the fascinating history thereafter, right up to the liquidation of Ross Optical Limited as recently as 1982.
  21. That response suggests to me that devices like the Eagle 3 are fine for long exposure AP (where delay matters little), notably with DSLRs that have internal storage, but might struggle where one is is using a high resolution CMOS astro-camera (like ASI178 mentioned) requiring external storage and even more so if multiple short exposure stacks for Electronically Assisted Astronomy (known in SGL as EEVA) are required. Indeed, can it handle stacking in a manner similar to Sharpcap, Infinity, SG Pro or Maxim DL? Can anybody confirm? Or is the Eagle 3 simply acting as transmitter sending camera and control data to your (indoor) more powerful laptop which then handles the camera software? What about ASIair and AtikBase? I have tentatively been looking at these devices and the manufacturer websites are unclear what cameras or processes they will (or won't) support. If I tried to run my 16 megapixel camera with (say) SG Pro on a PC with a low specification processor and merely 1 Gb RAM it is certain to choke. So how are they doing this, or are there limitations that are not stated in the marketing material (as confirmed by the previous poster)? It would helpful if some Eagle 3 (and ASIAir and AtikBase) users could clarify.
  22. What I struggle to understand is how devices like the Eagle (and ASIAir) work with such a limited processor and so little RAM. Begs the question, will it work with large sensor high resolution CMOS cameras like ZWO ASI294 or Atik Horizon? My 16 megapixel Atik Horizon churns out 3840 x 2040 resolution and hence generates huge files. If I stack/save these using two second exposures (on Hyperstar) whilst running CPWI scope software and autofocussing software then Windows Resource Monitor suggests that I am close to running out of CPU and memory resources despite having a decent 7i5 processor and 4Gb RAM. My computer resolves this, but not in 'real time' as it takes longer to process than than actual total exposure integration time. For single long exposure AP I guess this doesn't matter, but for EVAA it is a tad sluggish. I am about to increase RAM to 16Gb having discussed this with Atik Support who suggested that 4Gb was a tad lightweight. If the Eagle has merely an ARM A7 at 1 GHz with 1 Gb RAM, what is the maximum camera specification it will handle? Past CCDs have tended to be modest resolution, but more recent CMOS are far more demanding (example ASI294 at 11.7 megapixel). Do Prima Luci offer any guidance?
  23. Hi Steve, Interesting that your WiFi range experience with the Eagle 3 mirrors mine with a DIY solution. I found with a regular Home WiFi network the effective range seemed to differ by the day. One day 30 feet, next day minimal. Drove me nuts! But I have a theory, and a solution. Recently, Apple was fined €25m in France for issuing upgrades reducing the performance levels of earlier I-phones. Vodafone offers two speed levels of its 'unlimited data' tariff. It is evident that manufacturers and ISPs can remotely vary WiFi, 4G and other performance parameters. I reckon at peak loads we possibly get screwed down. I tried a Netgear EX8000 wireless extender. But it's performancec struggled to deliver the consistency I needed. To be fair to Netgear, I probably needed two or more such units (see next paragraph). If streaming a movie, our eyes won't miss a dropped frame. However, if any interference/clutter results in a "lost packet" then a scope will miss a heart beat and lose orientation. It needs a perfectly stable, consistent strong signal. I struggled for nearly three years with this challenge. I didn't get good consistent WiFi performance until I obtained a set of three BT 'WholeHome' discs (£163 from Amazon). I put one in my conservatory connected to my router by Ethernet cable. Another in my (converted garage) Mission Control. My scope connects to the former and my computer to the latter. I still needed to strategically put a third powered disc between them to form a MESH bridge. This now covers my entire house and garden with a 5 GHz private network wholly independent of my regular network. I use it only for my astro devices to avoid clutter I can control. The rest of the family suffer the regular network! It works brilliantly. However... The distance between each overlapping signal disc is little more than 5 metres. The distance between scope and computer indoors circa 12 metres (requiring the extra disc between) with signals having to breach a brick wall at each end. It now works solidly. Frankly, the limits seem to be no longer than "active' USB at my location, but as you have noted, any 'clutter' issue might not manifest at Dark Sky sites or less (WiFi) populated areas. This route is also a cheaper than more sophisticated point to point solutions. But I had already invested in high gain antennae wireless adapters. A pal has mentioned to me that my 'timber framed' (brick exterior) house has inner plasterboard lined with tinfoil insulation that perhaps further explains the local challenge. Lastly, but not relevant to the Eagle 3, I found that disabling RemoteFX compression in Windows 10 Pro Remote Desktop offered benefits. This compression deliberately restricts data flow to stop a single user choking a commercial network. On your own unique private WAN this compression isn't necessary. Unleashing this data flow was the difference between me succeeding or failing with an end to end 4K UHD display system using WiFi. My DIY system electronically now works great, but it is not as compact as the Eagle 3. Still working on that challenge. But with plastic (electronics) project boxes costing under £10 from Rapid Electronics, I am close to a perfect DIY solution. EDIT I notice BT offer the original AC2600 (R800) WholeHome system £163 (for three discs) plus a revised AX3700 system for £269. Evidently, MESH technology has stepped up another gear which might improve connectivity and range. These discs work with any router (BT, Sky, Talk Talk etc) and set up a wholly independent 5 GHz network.
  24. A caution......arising from the above description in the Eagle 3 manual... You do NOT want to buy a 'SkyQLink' Celestron WiFi wireless accessory. Any device emitting a signal with the SkyQLink name is first generation and is unsatisfactory. The product was renamed 'SkyPortal' and is now up to generation 3 and emits a signal named 'Celestron.xx'. The 'xx' is a hexadecimal number offering 256 access codes. This step was introduced because 'SkyQLink' conflicts were identified from an early stage, rumoured to have been between adjacent Evolution scopes at the Launch Party. Both generation 1 & 2 version offer poor range and are flaky due to poor ribbon aerial and unsatisfactory WiFi chip etc. I have owned both and eventually obtained a generation 3 under warranty. A problem is that externally you cannot distinguish between versions (no differing product code). So, never buy a SkyPortal external WiFi accessory second hand unless certain it is generation 3 (e.g. brand new is best). Even with a third generation device, please note it uses the 2.4GHz channel, which can suffer from interference from USB3 devices and urban 'clutter' I don't use a Prima Luce Eagle 3. Instead I built my own twin computer based remote control device using Intel NUCs for about a third of the price. I do use a SkyPortal device to wirelessly connect scope to computer, and it works fine as the distance to be wirelessly bridged is merely around two feet. However, I needed to ensure it was distant from my USB3 camera and when considering its own effective range I found it unreliable beyond about 10 feet in either Direct or Access Point mode (even third generation). It seems to get overwhelmed by external interference in urban locations. Celestron has long blamed 'urban clutter' which I suspect is real. My neighbours control everything from central heating to curtains and lighting by WiFi. The list of 2.4 GHz networks I can "see" is inexhaustible. I have created dedicated 5 GHz WAN network, and wirelessly connect my two computers using Windows 10 Pro Remote Desktop (much cheaper than Eagle 3) and this works great. But until Celestron make its SkyPortal device (say) dual band you are stuck with 2.4GHz, not ideal with either route.
  25. Interesting that the OP is having problems in Atik Dusk/Infinity software. Try this... There is a 'hidden' local user data folder at C:/ProgramData > Atik > Dusk > Settings (or replace Dusk with Infinity in its similar path, both folders are seperate). To see it in Windows you will need to go to <View> and tick 'show hidden files'. The contents of this folder can become corrupt after a computer crash and it isn't fixed by reinstalling the core software. Drove me bonkers for months. To fix a variety of unexplained glitches, simply delete this <Settings> folder, then reboot computer. Dusk (or Infinity) will then rebuild it when next opened and restore its integrity. If you want confirmation of this visit Atik's own Horizon forum and view the thread "Version 5.0.0.4 broke my camera".
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