alacant

Here's an old school rendition, with layers and stuff. Without st's psycho-visuals. My gf likes this one better, '... and much brighter stars.', she adds;) I hate it!

Hi 60% moon throughout. I suppose I could add more frames. Such a pity about the composition. Maybe best to start over, but this time moonless and include the owl. Cheers and thanks for posting.

Hi everyone Surprised to see The Plough so high at this time of year. That means galaxies. But you need an OAG for 1000mm. It says here. Well, we didn't have one for this so took a gamble with a guide telescope. Managed 31 of 32 5 minute frames, the lost one being frame 2 when EKOS decided to begin capture before the first dither had settled. I wonder who's fault that was? Oh, and the framing. It would have been easy to include m97 too. Apart from being dark, which is once again not the software's fault, the guide telescope seems to have worked; loadsa fuzz patches. Thanks for looking. Any ideas or comments most welcome. 700d on gso203, ISO800

How do second and subsequent light frames appear?

Hi everyone Here are some unashamedly in-your-face stars, helped along by the -rather nice- gso mirrors. Minimal processing: stack-stretch-colour. Not sure about the blue but hey, no filter, so I may stand a chance after a rethink. Thanks for looking, clear skies and stay safe. 700d @ ISO800 : 60min

Stop (e.g. the Zeiss) down to a usable f5 and you're left with just 25mm aperture. Try marketing that as a telescope! But seriously, look at the aperture, not the f ratio. Camera lenses tend to have small apertures. You need ages to get a decent image. Cheers

Hi Here's an example with the Takumar, and some with the Zeiss. Both with an eos700d. For me, the Asahi has the edge, but there's very little in it. Be warned however; camera lenses are painfully slow for astro... No need for the €silly adapter. Any of the proliferation of €2 models M42 to Eos ex AliExpress are fine. HTH

Hi It's a DSLR so all that is needed is this. Cheers

- Remove the extension/adapter from the camera/OAG to reveal a male m42 thread on the OAG (shot below) - Screw the camera directly into tho OAG. That's it. To make life -a lot- easier, you may want to upgrade to this camera in one of these focusers.

Hi It should reach focus easily. The prism position is irrelevant. Post a photo so we can see what oag/camera you have. Cheers

I've not had hands on yet but try here. Cheers

Not sure what effect you are looking for with a filter, but I think with a reasonably dark sky, most targets will look better un-filtered. I found the l-enhance gave much the same effect as the -sensibly priced- UHC. Both need around 4x the exposure to grab the same amount of light. The y-cass ghosts will certainly be recorded better without. Cheers

I think things are changing though. Have a look at the Optolong l-extreme for example. Cheers

Hi Nice effort. My advice would be to not use the filter. Un filtered will record the nebulae and stars with much better colour and the former will stand forward more. Cheers and HTH

So, fit the original focuser barrel collar (the one without the thread) and push the cc and spacers into the focuser. Make sure that the spacers are correct for the 58mm of backfocus of course. As you have it, and assuming 20mm for the fw, you're not gonna be that far off; a 20mm m48 extension instead of the 16.5mm should get you close enough. Cheers.

Hi Push the cc into the focus tube. The position of focus is the same as without cc. Or, post a photo of the setup. Cheers

+1. All a filter will ever do is remove light from your image. Never add to it. ATM, I'd concentrate getting the mount set up to perfection. Cheers

Hi Maybe Hii (AKA H-beta?) which according to Optolong's graph, shows as blue. This is RGB. If you like, you can process with those blue/yellow HSO and HOO false colour schemes too. But I don't like. Cheers

Hi I'm not an expert, but I think not. It caters chiefly for H-alfa and Oiii. My local Spanish group wanted a side by side comparison of lp filters. Not for lp, rather the colour they gave. I drew the short straw! Cheers

Hi Hands on: I posted an example here and some UHC examples last week. I was disappointed with the example I tried. It offers the same effect as a €30 UHC, but costs €silly. To give an idea of light loss, an unfiltered flat frame takes 2s, the UHC and l-enhance take 8s. My advice would be to try a UHC (or a cls) first. You can do this easily by joining your local astro club. If in the end you really do want narrow band, do it properly with the l-extreme. I think that in the not so distant future, one-shot camera + (when the technology improves) single multi-band filter are gonna take preference over the filter wheel. Just my €0.02 Cheers and HTH.

Does the QHY have a firmware bin? Our zwo120 clone has a 2x bin giving 640x480 which is fine. Even with our 6" f8. Cheers

Hi everyone The filter offers the same effect and false colour as a UHC. But costs loads more. Confused! Anyone? Cheers and thanks for looking. 700d on gso203

Hi To use what you had before -from your post maybe ASTAP(?)- just select it in the drop down. If you want to try StellarSolver, you will have to download the astrometry index files. HTH

Hi everyone We were forecast only 1ºC the right side of dew point but seem to have survived most of the night. There are some unfriendly alnitak-like stars in the field but controlled well by the uhc filter. Throw in a dose of StarTools' new un-glow and SuperStructure and this processing game is getting easier by the release. This is just 15 minutes on my mate's -cue envy- new 10 core i9. Anyway, amongst myriad of false colour representations on display, we chose CBA (Costa Blanca Orange). There's gas and dust everywhere; it's difficult deciding if there's any neutral bg at all. Thanks for looking, do let us know what you think and merry xmas:) 700d @ ISO800