alacant

Hi Difficult to say because we don't know how you processed it; Vega looks green with a red halo. That maybe because you missed focus and/or don't have an ir filter on the lens. You could fit a 77mm front filter (they're quite cheap); I'm not sure there are clip or in-adaptor filters for Sony. If it helps and you have no other specific uses for the full spectrum, you could consider refitting the filter in the camera as I think the front mounted filter may cause other issues for astro stuff. Cheers and HTH

Hi eos700d tested with telescopes from 55mm to 1200mm focal lengths. Hands on: all well. I wouldn't get too hung up on the theory. Over sampling or whatever. Just look at the images, not the numbers! IIRC, your 600d has the same sensor as out 700d. You should be fine.

Looks good. You're in focus:) Maybe try m13? Should look good at that focal length.

Hi By far the easiest way would be to get someone over who has some astrophotography experience and see if they can do anything with the stuff you have. Take careful note if what they do. The way in is the local astro club. If your stuff isn't going to work, you'll then be able to see first hand what is suitable by attending their sessions. I think however you should be able to get a decent shot of part of the moon quite easily with what you already have. One thing you could do is to get close to infinity focus during the day on a distant object with the camera at low gain. Cheers and good luck.

You have a week at least before that becomes an issue:) https://aptforum.com/phpbb/viewtopic.php?t=3154

Yes. OK. It seems the red overpowers the other two channels. JTOL, it's like both the hot mirror and the moire ir filter have been removed. Is that the case? Anyway, it'd doable, but makes processing more difficult than need be. There is not nearly enough dither. To lose the walk with a 600d, you're gonna need at least 10px and between every frame. See @bottletopburly's calculation, here. With a refractor, an ir cut filter can often help with stuff like this, especially for full spectrum modifications. That should make it a lot cleaner. Just our €0.02 hands on. Maybe the theorists could throw some light on the matter too, but hey, for a camera which has 10 year old technology, it's very good. There's loadsa faint stuff showing HTH

Correct. RAW is just that, The raw data. Just the signal and the noise. On some cameras you can choose to save a .jpg along with the raw to get an idea of what the colour may look like, but for astro stuff, that's not necessary. Cheers and HTH

Hi Can't tell. Please post -links to- a single light frame a single bias frame master bias final stack We use mainly a -same sensor i think- 700d, but don't see the noise you illustrate. Cheers

Hi Try a bigger dither with windsored sigma clip at e.g. 3 3. The debayer looks like it's left a grid too. Try RCD. If you're not keen on spending time processing (I'm not!) I think you're gonna have to get an astro camera, use your Nikon or simply take more frames with the 600. Otherwise, it's easily corrected. Cheers

Nooo... I don't think so. All you need to do is keep taking more and more frames. If you could get say, 100, you'd find it much easier to process and see a lot more detail. 200, even better. 500... etc etc. You could also consider guiding if you're not already. That way, you could take frames of a longer duration. Keep the camera attached to the telescope so you can spread the project over several nights HTH.

Hi Once pressed lightly against the silicone in the cell, I'd say it creates far less movement than if allowed to sit freely and 'slide' as the mount turns. The layer of silicone is only 1mm or so, depending upon the mass of the mirror. FWIW, it was the only best way we fount to tame a f3.9 to hold collimation both during and between sessions; the silicone can be allowed expand up and around the sides of the mirror, thus providing control for lateral movement too. Tested on mirrors up to 254mm. No theory. Very much hands on only evidence. I'm sure there are better ways, but this modification takes only 15 minutes and just works. Our 130 is out on loan ATM but here is a 200pds mirror cell which had awful diffraction spikes and would not hold collimation.

Hi It's best to take RAW images with a DSLR, so any colour balance you set will most likely only be visible on the camera preview, not in the image. IMO, it's best not to fight filters too hard. You are removing big chunks of the spectrum so the colour will never be as natural as unfiltered. If there's a dominant colour cast, this should easily be fixed in processing. Tell us what you're using and we could advise more. Even easier if you'd like to post an example. Cheers

Hi everyone Alicante. Clear but only 3% maximum here. Good luck everyone. Still a while to go.

Hi It looks like you have an extension tube between the focuser and the camera. Without it, you should easily be able to reach focus. Could you post a close shot of the focuser with and without camera? Cheers

Hi To remove the mirror, simply use a thin knife to slice through the silicone. An artist's palliate knife is ideal. Cheers

Yes, of course. Just cover the telescope and/or use a dark room. Normally though, dark frames introduce more artefacts than they're worth. Just that in the case of the 40d, as with the 450d, they may just do what you want as the exception which proves the rule. I didn't get past the trial stage of APP, but I seem to remember it had something similar to Siril's optiimistation. Have a search for dark scaling OWTTE. Siril also has a comprehensive banding algorithm. One other thing we were'nt sure of is whether you're dithering in between frames. This, along with Siril's Linear Clip algorithm at something like 3 3 should also help. Cheers

Lovely shot. You've done far better than we ever achieved with a C8. We would have loved to tame it as well as you have. So nice to get that magnification without having to enlarge in software. Yeah. I think the older sensors in particular were prone to this. We had a 450d which was similar. It was one of the few DSLRs which responded to dark frames. Try the dark optimization algorithm in Siril. Worth a go? Otherwise there are good post process band removal routines in most astro software but always better to try to remove via calibration. Chip wise, the newer 18mp sensors seem to be band-free with the 24mp not far behind but not so good over longer focal lengths. Cheers

Hi, yeah. I think if you have lp, you'd be better sticking to a lp filter. What the uhc seems to do is emphasise the green emission but totally destroy any notion of old-school colour.

Hi everyone This is a good one to try ATM as it starts at a sensible -albeit rather low at 24º- altitude and ends at dawn just before the meridian. Very much an argument settler as I don't like filtered stuff, but was persuaded to try a UHC on this having inadvertently made the error of stating that I couldn't bring out the green bits in this target when using unfiltered frames. I had to admit defeat having seen the OIII (?) bits around the edges. IMO this filter compares favourable with the much praised used L-enhance which we tried last year, especially the green bits. Should be good on the veil too when it gets to a sensible altitude. Thanks for looking and dslr users, do post your attempts at the same, especially if you used a filter of any type. 700d on gso203. iso800, uhc ~4 hours iso800

Hi Yes. Just as PHD2, EKOS' internal guider needs the guide camera to be the same if you choose to re-use the guide calibration (recommended) between sessions. In the guider options, there is a check box to clear backlash before calibration in DEC, IMO, better than in PHD2 where you have to nudge the mount manually north in DEC before the west calibration begins. With a t7c and a 240mm guide telescope, try a guide pulse of 900 and 6 iterations. Of course, use SEP Multistar and the PPEC GPG for RA. Here are our settings for an old eq6: HTH

Hi everyone Anyone else yet? Cheers

You're not going to be using dark frames (which have the bias included) so you should subtract the bias from the light frames too before stacking. In Siril, this is easy. Choose your light sequence and pre process with both the master bias and master flat selected. Register, throw out the bad frames (which may be introducing noise) then stack. Yes. That's fine. Especially if you've dithered.

Hi Yes. Please see here. Having tried DSS and Siril for stacking, IMO Siril has the best stacking. There's a nice comparison between apps here. Cheers

Pragmatic approach with modern DSLRs... Always use a bias as a bias and a flat as a flat. No darks of any type, but don't forget the dither. We found dark flat frames made no difference to the stack. If anything, they created banding. Of course, YMMV so by all means try. Cheers.

Mmm. That's the procedure for the whole calibration and stacking process. Anyway, when you have dithered, lose the dark frames and try sigma clip: low 5, high 2. Try with and without normalisation. Cheers.