Ricochet

What about if you use the 14 with a 2x barlow? Do you see a similar effect then?

Fort future reference I think it would have been better to have posted in a new thread as your query is not the same as the original post. If your telescope has a 2" focuser and you have a decent amount of inward travel left then you could look at buying a 2" diagonal to use 2" eyepieces. If the eyepiece you've bought is the only 2" eyepiece you intend to get then you may be better off sending it back and buying a 24mm ES68° instead, which maximises the field of view for 1.25" eyepieces and is pretty much the same as that given by the 28mm you have bought.

The longer focal length Starguiders will struggle in an f5 scope. The 5/8/12 should be good though. At the longer lengths I suggest looking at the ES68° range, even though they are a lot more expensive.

Yes.

No. You should also have a 2" adaptor that is roughly the same length as your 1.25" adaptor. You would leave the original 2" adaptor in the telescope all the time and then put the Baader Clicklock in the 2" adaptor when you want to use 1.25" eyepieces.

I believe you would need an NEQ6 or larger for a 200PDS.

Turn the focuser knobs so that the object you are observing becomes smaller. When the object is at its smallest, you are in focus. You cannot use the focuser to enlarge the image.

Jupiter should appear as a small disk, with the four major moons in roughly a straight line either side of it. Seeing cloud band detail on Jupiter will require high magnification and may be limited by either your scope or eyepieces and the atmospheric conditions, as well as requiring correct focus. Your 10mm eyepiece is probably the weak point in the provided accessories, perhaps the barlow too depending on what is supplied with the Heritage 100p.

It depends what you want to look at/take photos of. The Astronomik CLS is a light pollution filter that may help on DSOs if the lighting in your area is mainly old sodium lighting. The more LED lights, the less effective it will be. The Baader Neodymium filter increases contrast on the moon, and to a lesser extent, Jupiter.

The minimum suggested beginner mount for astrophotgraphy is the Skywatcher HEQ5. That will set you back £789. On the assumption that you already have a DSLR, you could then fit that directly to the mount with whatever lens you have while you save up to buy either an 80ED or 130PDS. The book Making Every Photon Count should be your first purchase, else you risk having no money and a telescope/mount that is completely unsuitable for your aims.

Yes, that is part of the clicklock and included in the optical path length given on the Baader website.

Yes. I added a parfocalising ring to my 28mm Nirvana. I also have some spacer rings above the parfocalising ring, but those are not a standard thing that you can buy. I don't have any spacers. The thing you are probably looking at is the ring that connects the M68x1 male thread on the Clicklock to the M68x0.75 male thread on the focuser. Mine is smooth but the production version is knurled. Focusing is quite tight to full extension, the 2" ep might not focus without the parfocalising ring to lift it up. Baader do sell M68x1 extensions, but they are quite expensive for what they are.

Triangular stars are usually caused by the primary mirror clips being too tight and pinching the mirror.

Or you remove the extension as well as the 2" clamp, and then it is a bit shorter.

The 1.25"-2" Clicklock won't help as it is clamp "A" that is the problem. As the Clicklock has an undercut, "A" will tilt it and being tilted is worse than a slight offset.

Yes that is normal. The 2" eyepiece clamp must be wider than 2" in order for 2" eyepieces to be inserted into it. Additionally, once the clamp is fixed to the telescope, you will have a hard time getting a filter onto the bottom of it. One thing that I might do in future is to fit a Baader UFC system between the 2" click lock and focuser, but I need to upgrade to the new maxbright binoviewers first and check the remaking focus travel, as well as confirming that with no filter slide in place the Newtonian gpc can pass through the UFC chamber.

It appears there is a 2" hexafoc Clicklock available second hand on ABS: https://www.astrobuysell.com/uk/propview.php?view=162754 I've no connection or previous dealings with the seller.

Indeed. After I took the photos I initially looked in the telescopes section for the thread. 😂

I think even if you have an hour cool down fan assisted gives better results than without, plus if observing is a quick decision, the fan gets reasonable cooling in a short time.

I have been turning it off for high magnification viewing to try to get a more stable image. That is why I have added the e strip to see if fan vibration is reduced. With regards to locations, my current work patterns mean that I've hardly had the opportunity to observe from home, let alone to take the scope out to a darker site.

This is an old picture of the first test ring, that was the width of the tube. The current one is the same width as the mirror clips. It shows better the set up that I have. As it is a standard Newtonian I have no other baffles within the tube.

The fan gives a faster cool down, but I couldn't give an exact time. It really depends on what you are observing and the powers required. In terms of dew I have had issues with the secondary dewing up in the past, but since I've fitted the fan I don't think it has happened once and I haven't had to fit a secondary heater. I think I may have seen that review when I was looking for them. I think I bought mine on eBay for a fraction of the price.

I don't know if this has come out enough for you to be able to make out properly. Also, my method of mounting the fan to the rear of the tube

I bought mine in Wilko. It's one of the sticky back plastic rolls, somewhere in the home or decorating section for about £5 a roll.

Apparently, I've had it since the end of 2015, which is longer than I would have guessed. Generally I've been happy with it and I've got no plans to replace it with anything else at this time. Modification wise I've done the following: 1.25" and 2" Baader clicklocks on the focuser 3d printed ring on the left focuser wheel to give more control (and it's insulated which is actually nicer to use when it is cold). I will probably put the 10:1 fine focuser on the right hand side even though it isn't strictly necessary. Dob knob fitted using one of the holes where the "lower" RDF shoe was originally. RDF replaced with Telrad and 9x50 RACI. Inside of the tube flocked Ring fitted on top of mirror clips to mask the mirror edge and tighten up star images (quite difficult to see as the inside is so dark, the rear of the secondary spider you can see in the top left is actually black). Rear cooling fan. The screws that hold the mirror cell to the OTA have been replaced with longer screws. There is a 3d printed spacer and washer on each screw which allows the fan to be mounted via hair bands to reduce vibrations from the fan being transmitted to the telescope. There is also a baffle to try to force the air from the fan around the mirror and up the tube rather than it just bouncing off the back of the mirror. I've recently fitted some E strip between the baffle and mirror cell to try to prevent any vibration being transmitted that way, but it is yet to be tested. Riser fitted to the base so that I can slide the OTA further back in the rings than is possible with the standard base. With a Telrad, 9x50 RACI and binoviewers, this is needed if you don't want to add weight to the mirror end of the tube. Fan controller fitted in the riser to turn the fan down. There is also a 12v battery on the inside of the rocker box. Shedmate feet fitted to lift the base off the ground a little. These have to be set in the lowest position possible or vibrations are not damped sufficiently, they can't be used for levelling in my opinion. Cuphooks to hold the dust cover while the telescope is in use. I think that is everything I've done so far. Excellent, sounds like you should be fine then.