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About jACK101

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    South West Scotland

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  1. I haven't tried a 32mm EP. My problem was using my Nikon in prime focus mode. I have managed to get what I need from Peter's suggestion, see above. Thanks for your help. Jack
  2. Peter, Another one from an earlier sequence. Thanks again Jack
  3. Peter, Thanks very much for that, you have solved my problem. The programme is easy to use and also very quick. See attached result.
  4. I have taken a number of shots using my Celestron CPC925 with my Nikon D3200. These are reasonably OK but I cannot get all of the moon into the frame. I bought a very cheap 0.5 focal reducer on Ebay This screws into the short 1 1/4" stub mounted on the camera. When I use this I cannot get the moon into focus and all I can see is a fuzzy "Polo Mint". I have tried a longer tube on the camera, about 2 - 2 1/2", and this allows me to get the focus but the "Polo Mint" is still very dominant. Is it possible to make this or some similar arrangement work or should I buy the Celestron focal reducer, which mounts directly onto the end of the telescope? Thanks
  5. I have read this thread in bemusement. I have also read a few books on Astrophotography and none of them go into this level of detail. Can you recommend a book which goes step by step through the theory you have been describing, or do you have to gain this experience by making possibly expensive mistakes? Thanks
  6. I am puzzled by this discussion. I am coming at this issue after a lifetime as an amateur photographer. In conventional photography, let's say landscape, the exposure would be a simple function of aperture, shutter speed and film speed, or nowadays sensor ISO setting. I cannot think of any situation where many hundreds of grossly underexposed frames when added together could give an acceptable result because the information would not be there on the film or sensor. I can understand the need to have different exposures for different brightness levels which when stacked give an acceptable result, but why does astrophotography seem to work to different rules? Jack
  7. It is a single image. I am starting to set up an observatory and I have bought the Celestron HD Pro Wedge. I intend to install that on a concrete pier. I therefore did not use tracking, the telescope was on its tripod. I have been a keen amateur photographer for around 60 years so I am more familiar with photographic processing rather that astro. I used Lightroom, adjusting for exposure and contrast then making fine adjustments in Curves followed by a touch of Clarity. Exposure was 1/4 sec at ISO 800. I was using only the telescope lens, the camera lens being removed. I was surprised at how rapidly the image moved out of frame. Thanks Jack
  8. Hi, I am a relative newcomer to astro photography. This is my attempt at the moon on 1st Mar. I had difficulty getting it in frame and by the time I fitted a focal reducer my front lens had misted up. Celestron CPC925 with Nikon D3200 Any suggestions for improvement welcome.
  9. Sorry, It was a Nikon D3200 not 200 Jack
  10. I hesitate to post this, all the rules have been broken, but it is my first DSO. I used a Celestron 925 but with no tracking and a Nikon D200. I do have the Celestron wedge but have not yet got it set up. This result is from 1 exposure of 1 second, no stacking. I realise that the quality is very poor, but I think I know what I need to do to improve it. Processing was done in Lightroom. I would appreciate any comments. Jack
  11. I am planning to build a small observatory with a concrete pier. I plan to use a car brake disc bolted to the top of the pier to accept the wedge. My problem is that I am not an engineer and I need to transfer the Exact configuration of the holes in the wedge mounting plate to the brake disc and then drill and tap to accept the Celestron bolts. Alternatively I could drill slightly oversize and use nuts to secure the wedge. Does anyone have any ideas? Thanks Jack
  12. Thanks for your comment. Although my telescope experience is very limited I have no regrets about buying the CPC925. It is heavy and I can't manage to handle it on my own. I have however overcome that by building a trolley which allows me to move it within the house and I have rigged up a block and tackle which allows me to easily get it onto the tripod outside. I am however planning to build a small observatory with a pier and this will avoid all manual handling.
  13. Yes, I agree with you. This is only my second attempt at astro photography, the first attempt was very similar. Perhaps I need to avoid taking shots of the moon when there are such large expanses of highly illuminated area. Thanks for your comments. Jack
  14. i'm not sure what points you are making. I have been an amateur photographer for about 60 years and I understand hyperfocal distance etc from a terrestrial photography standpoint. I am however very new to astronomy. I don't know if these relationships hold when the lens has a focal length of 2700mm+. I still think that any play in the tube holding the camera is important. The slightest movement here is likely to move the sensor sufficiently out of truth for focus problems to occur. I'm awake now. Jack Jack
  15. I am using a Celestron CPC 925 AND A Nikon D3200 Jack