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About jACK101

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    South West Scotland
  1. Canon EOS 5D mK 1

    Can anyone tell me what this 12.8 megapixel full frame camera is like for astro work? Thanks
  2. Moon Triptych

    3 Shots of the moon taken over the last few weeks. Camera Nikon D3200, stacking in Zerene stacker. Telescope Celestron CPC925 with 0.63 focal reducer.
  3. Moon, 5th Nov.

    I have just got my CPC925 to track the moon. This shot was taken last night with tracking on, using a blue filter, taken at 100 ISO and 1/50th sec. I took 20 shots and tried to stack them in DSS, but my computer went into hibernation before it completed the job. I was stacking TIFF files which were quite large. I tried using a programme that I use for macro photography called Zerene Stacker, and this did the job in a few minutes. The attached shot is therefore the final stacked image. My question is: How does this rate as a moon shot. Please be critical and tell me what areas I need to improve. Thank you
  4. You are correct, I was simply looking for a quick estimate of south to check my mount's alignment. I haven't seen stars for weeks. It has either been raining, heavily overcast or high level haze. The moon at least has sometimes been visible.
  5. Peter, I thought I was, I'm sure they were the same when I set it up, but something changed. OK now, thanks Jack
  6. I would like to use the moon tonight to align my mount to due south. According to Stellarium the moon will be due south of my location at 18.22.08. However on my wife's computer the moon will be due south at 17.54.44. The system times for both copies of Stellarium are within 5 secs of each other. Why should there be this discrepancy? Thanks
  7. Printing off maps from Stellarium

    This could be very useful for me, thank you. I have tried to take a screenshot and save it as a Jpeg. This works, but when I ask Stellarium to reverse the colours it doesn't do it. Any suggestions why? Thanks Jack
  8. I am building an observatory and I am at the stage of test fitting my CPC925 and HD Wedge to my pier which is topped with a car brake disc.. I have a print off which I think is a Celestron product which says that the hinge on the wedge should be pointing to the North. Is this correct? I am trying to understand the whole idea of Polar Alignment. I have attached a very rough sketch which looks at different positions at different latitudes. At the equator no wedge is required, I believe. My sketch shows the various orientations of the wedge at different latitudes and with the hinge pointing to the South. In each case, by setting the wedge to the local latitude the mounting plate then becomes parallel to that at the equator. This seems to me to be logical. If the hinge points North as shown in the 60 degree latitude example the mounting plate is at a totally different angle. Can anyone please explain where I may be going wrong? Thank you Jack
  9. Peter, I think that the working load would be in the vertical direction in my application. My idea is to screw or bolt a substantial upstand to the brackets and then build the roof on top of the upstand. All of the load would then be vertically downwards. In addition, I think it might also be possible to add a section of hardwood behind the bracket to stop the roof being lifted. There would have to be additional methods to stop the roof being blown off. Thanks for the replies Jack
  10. I have found an item 252826831189 on Ebay which I think could be modified for an observatory sliding roof. It is a sliding door gear and the maximum door weight is 200 pounds. Clearly 2 tracks would be required, so total safe load would be 400 pounds or roughly 180KGS. This would be strong enough to allow me to work on top of the roof to felt it. Any comments? Jack
  11. Housing a big SCT - and a question.

    Olly, I have just completed a similar exercise. I am using a car brake disc, Mercedes no less. Not because it was Mercedes, but because I needed a 300mm diameter disc. (£20 on Ebay) I drilled out the five existing holes to 16mmm to match the screwed rod I was planning to use, (screwfix) then used that as a template to make 2 identical plates in plywood. I bolted one plate to the bottom of the five rods and the other near the top, but below the finished level. I dropped this assembly into the shuttering for my concrete and poured the concrete. The plywood kept the bars parallel and all I had to do as the concrete was being poured was to ensure that the rods remained as vertical as I could manage. In any case I can adjust the brake disc later to make it as horizontal as possible. The nuts on the immersed plywood templates I think will also make it more difficult for the rods to be pulled out of the concrete. I hope this helps. Jack That is as far as I have progressed, the rest of the obsy has still to be built.
  12. Solar Probe.

    I believe they are sending it at night to get over the temperature problems.
  13. Nikon D3100

    Hi, I use a Nikon D3200 which is very similar to your camera. I use the viewfinder when hooked up to my telescope and it works OK. What shutter speed are you using. It is possible that what you are seeing is movement of your telescope set up resulting in a fuzzy image. Note that the D3200 and probably also your 3100 cannot use liveview when the lens is detached. The camera does not recognise my telescope and this can be a nuisance. Try as high a shutter speed as you can and if the result is in sharp focus you will have identified the reason. Try also to use an electronic release instead of pressing the shutter. The moon is an excellent subject to practise on, particularly when at half moon when you get sharp definition over the boundary between light and dark areas. Jack
  14. I haven't tried a 32mm EP. My problem was using my Nikon in prime focus mode. I have managed to get what I need from Peter's suggestion, see above. Thanks for your help. Jack