Dazzyt66

Hey Clive. There are no silly questions here 😊 You will need to use the red dot finder to make sure the scope is aligned properly when using goto. Goto will aim to get you to the right target but initially you will need to make sure it is aligning accurately. This will be explained in the instructions but there is plenty to read here if you search on ‘star alignment’. You will also need to make sure the scope is centred on where the red dot points - this is easily done in daytime using a terrestrial target - you basically find something in your scope (lampposts or chimneys are good) and then adjust the red dot to be pointing to whatever is centred in your scope. Hope this all makes sense. Enjoy it and clear skies. Daz

It’s ok, I can work my way through it! 😂 Being new to image processing though, stuff like stretching, masks and layers still has me thinking! 🤔

I think I may have used Kappa-Sigma but if not I’ll give it a try. Thanks 😊

Really great feedback, thank you. I’m pretty sure there were star colours in there (various shades of oranges and blues) but I lost all that when I did the stretching to bring the galaxies out. So, I’ll try the suggested tweaks above and see what I come up with - I may have to re-read it a few times though cos some of it sounded like a different language! 😂

Cool! I used ISO 1600 as I’d read somewhere that it was the signal to noise ‘optimal’ for my 1100d for Astro. I have used 800 too and (personally) didn’t notice that much difference so I just stuck to the 1600 😀

I like that idea!! 😄

For me, the useful stuff was: How long to image (‘optimal’ sub length and amounts before diminishing returns) What to expect with various imaging combinations - ie really faint DSOs may not be an option with LP, what LP images look like at different subs etc. Gear lists (especially the stuff around filters (LED v Sodium pollution) ‘Easy’ step processing for simple results - for me personally this was a biggie. I suspect most starters just want to get a ‘decent’ image. Bringing out really faint nebulousness wasn’t a key thing for me. I think positioning is key. The need to get the darkest position to hand and making the most of that probably limited view Theres probably lots more! 😂

Thanks for this. I’ll defo check the PA again. I’ll also have to read about the mount adjustments, although as I’m in a Bortle 8 zone I don’t think subs longer than 30s or so would bring me much benefit anyway? 🤔

Thanks for this. I’m using a HEQ5 semi permanently sited - I adjusted the PA using Ekos, but it may still be a little out so I’ll check it again next time - good tip about lowering exposure time - I may drop it to 20s and combined with a better PA may get rounder stars. I have now got a Bahtinov mask. I’m definitely enjoying it and was pretty pleased with this image. Still a lot to learn though 🙂

I think that would be brilliant and even though I use a DSLR I’ve had to trawl through loads of info with lots of trial and error as LP/lighter skies makes such a difference on what’s possible with AP (although I’m happy to try anything your thread on LP filters saved me some time AND money! 🙏) - and I do it mainly so my wife and kids can see what’s out there from our back garden too rather than me just looking through a lens 😄

Another great Bortle 8 test from @Lee_P - I’m just getting into imaging (from Bortle 8 skies) so all this info is VERY useful and as I’m able to automate my sessions now 10 hours of subs seems doable (although I’d be pretty much happy with the images after 5! 😂). Good work sir!

I use Astroberry with an RPI4 using Ekos scheduler to perform my imaging overnight. I don’t have autofocus so I basically set it up with a Bahtinov and then schedule the target to run as many images as I can get in. I’m unguided so limit to an hour of 30s subs and then rerun the same set over again so it re-plate solves. Seems ok so far and I’ve had some good results. I do my bias and flats when I get up (the white t shirt method at dawn)

Personally, I now use option 2 (EQMod cable), which is very good. Prior to that I used the Synscan app to connect my laptop. The EQMod way is far easier and trouble free. I used it with INDI/Ekos/kstars

It even looks like we get similar results - my attempts at same targets with around 4 hours of 30s subs using an unmodded DSLR and no filters...

Yeah, That’s exactly the version I was going for - I’ve already installed Kevin’s drivers, so I guess I should probably do the hardware at some point 😂 and I think I have a piece of steel with some holes in too! 😂😂

The 2nd moon image is my fav! I was thinking of getting the 120MC solely for moon and planets too, instead of my 1100d (maybe using it for guiding eventually) and these images are definitely making me think I will get it! Great work! 👏

I live in Bortle 8 (Doncaster) which is pretty much all LED now plus I live on a new estate which is definitely all LED so I’ve read this with interest - I was looking to maybe get a LP filter at some point, but now I’ve seen comparisons I don’t think they really make enough difference to justify. Great comparison! 😊

There’s also a non Arduino version code written by a guy on cloudy nights, if you search on the indi forum (if you are using Ekos) there are a few drivers already written for different motor solutions (the cloudy nights version was the one I was going to do)

This is a greatly informative thread. For me, for the moment, I’m gonna stick with Baht only. I’m pretty handy so could do the AF, but I’m not sure with the ST80 it would bring much more benefit - yeah AF would be nice but I think I’ll relegate it to a future project when I’m better at AP 🙂

Well, thanks to the guys here, I can say I’ve abandoned the AF ideas. The Bahtinov did a great job and I can’t see why I would need to refocus again during the night with the ST80, so for 5 mins at the start I’ll use the mask and the mask assistant in Ekos for now. Having used the focus module in Ekos with my DSLR (albeit manually) I can confirm it takes images (and auto selects a star from that image to focus on - if you have it set that way). It will then take regular images until focus is achieved (or in my case when I manually stop it after reaching the lowest point possible). I believe if you have an auto focuser it takes an image, adjusts, takes an image and so on until it has established the best part of the focus curve (rather than use liveview). The magnitude of the stars it can detect will depend on what exposure time you have put - I usually go 5 - 10 seconds and haven’t had a problem yet wherever I’ve targeted. HTH Daz

I've taken to checking: Clear Outside BBC Weather Channel and Ventusky The majority win (last night it was BBC and Weather Channel and Ventusky). Although I also have a crafty look as I let the dog out before bed too... 😂

Last night I used my homemade Bahtinov (cardboard) for the first time. Worked a treat and subsequently checked focus using Ekos Bahtinov assist. Worked a treat. Went inside, set target as NC1848 - Soul Nebula. Tried to platesolve and failed - never had that happen before? Tried a couple of times and then realised I'd left the mask on the scope! Phew. Close call. I set up my schedule for 4 x sequences of 118x30 seconds stating from 11pm and went to bed... Got up this morning to see that only 120 images had been taken. Checked the Ekos logs. The first 2 hours of the sessions failed, the 3rd hour worked and the 4th stopped halfway through cos dawn was coming. Thats OK, I had 120 or so images to stack(?) Checked them - the first 30 have half my neighbours house in them, (I'm amazed plate solving worked but it did for the other half of the sky 😂)... the rest have the streetlight lighting up the bottom half of the frame... Note to self - check where the planned target will be in the sky first! 😒

Don't know about the zero but I have Astroberry running on a Pi4 2 gig all OK with mount and dslr - that said I don't use guiding, but from what I've read about compatibility you should be fine if you go down that route (saves you having to buy a 4gb).

Hi, having just learned the hard way (2 hours of imaging side of neighbours house 😂) I realised I really should add my obstructions into Kstars. I've seen that you can do this by slewing your scope to positions to add points on the horizon? How do you do this? Manually, or by using the eqmod control within ekos and then slew around your horizon adding points? My main issue is side of neighbours house on North side and my house on most of South (I have pretty good views E & W). Any advice appreciated on the easiest way to do this.

Wow! It worked! And the Bahtinov assistant in Ekos is very cool! 👍😀