RT65CB-SWL

If I had more time I would have liked to have tried it in my TeleVue Ranger as it is f/6.8 and the ETX105 is f/14. https://www.baader-planetarium.com/en/baader-hyperion-universal-zoom-mark-iv-8-24mm-(1¼"--2").html

I used to be anti-zoom e/p; (the TeleVue Nagler 3-6mm (or 2-4mm) being the exception); but having borrowed the Baader Hyerion 8-24mm MklV zoom from a member of my local astro. soc./club for one hour at the end of February this year [2020], I was very impressed with its build and performance and it is not as heavy as I thought it would be, (the early models, i.e. Mk l & ll were heavy). The Mklll is not to heavy either and occasionally come up for sale second-hand. I was using the MklV in my 're-modded' ETX105 using it with the 1.25" fitting and at the end of the hour... I did not want to give it back.

I think @Rusted means this: -->https://www.firstlightoptics.com/adapters/universal-camera-adaptor-for-eyepiece-projection-astrophotography.html and quote: "...T2 female to camera bayonet adapter." ...i.e. T-ring for your camera: -->https://www.firstlightoptics.com/adapters/t-rings.html Alternatively there are 'eyepiece projection units', i.e. EPU: -->https://www.firstlightoptics.com/adapters/tele-camera-adaptor-for-eyepiece-projection-astrophotography.html - you need the T-ring for this too.

Yes, it was a conscious decision! - I live in a small apartment and storage space, power outlets, etc., is limited. The plus side is that in the event of a power outage, I can still use my 'scopes. Two versions of the AOK-AYO mount are available using encoders and 'Argo Navis'TM digital circle system... link here: http://www.aokswiss.ch/ayo/ It is also possible to retro-fit the Giro mount with encoders and 'Argo Navis'TM as well - though I am not sure how up to date this link is... http://www.wildcard-innovations.com/kits/pn-gr2-bspec_describe.html

Does this help...? I feel a lot happier with this on the backend of my ETX105; (or C6/SCT-xlt); than with a 1.25" push-fit, especially when using these 'old skool bad-boyz!'... That said, a 1.25" twist-lock maybe just as secure. Just a few few images of my 're-modded' ETX105 with an ETX-SCT adapter ring and SCT-1.25" push-fit visual back.

Hi @Interactive and welcome to SGL. Below few images of my alt-az mounts for you to mull/think over... <---(left) AOK-AYO and (right) Tele-Optic Giro GR-DXll <--- (Left) Celestron C6/SCT-xlt and (right) Meade ETX105 I also have this alt-az mount... Above is a Universal Astronomics DwarfStar... apparently it can hold a maximum payload of 8kgs., (though I have not attempted this). And if you have/anyone has not seen this...

Hi @HamSolo7 and welcome to SGL.

From your description, that sounds like you are describing the baffle tube. PLEASE return it as I mentioned earlier and don't be 'fobbed off' by your reseller/vendor, Meade, etc! ...and don't forget to ask for your money back.

This is how Jupiter, years ago appeared in my ETX105 before the 're-mod'... Another test is stars. How do they look? If they points of light then it should be OK. If they have a tail coming off oneside; (looking like miniature white tadpoles): then it will need collimating. Also if you de-focus a star or bright planet, are you getting concentric rings? I just read @michael8554 first comment. As it is 'new' maybe it is a bit stiff and as he suggests and may need 'flipping' a few times. Out of curiousity, your last image... is that from the top eyepiece port or the rear 'visual' port?

Hi @Shore Diver and welcome to SGL. Do leave the scope ample time to cool down; (i.e. reach ambient temperature before putting in an eyepiece). I leave my ETX105 for minimum of thirty minutes and/or longer during the winter months before use, uncapped, etc., so any trapped heat has time to escape. Depending on where you are, Mars, Jupiter and Saturn are not very high at time of writing for observers at 50+ degrees North. If you have an empty milk bottle, make a small pin-hole in the centre of the cap. This makes you a collimation cap and maybe more accurate then sight alone with the eye at this stage looking down the tube. Once you have made the collimation cap, align with the centre of the secondary, then look down the tube. If it is still out of collimation, contact the vendor/seller a.s.a.p. If you still have problem then return it to wherever it was purchased from and get them to raise an RMA, make notes of date, time, who you spoke with, etc. Just for information... To get to the collimation screws, you first have to remove the rear ABS plastic assembly. If it is still out of collimation, then it will require specialist equipment to put right. I would not do anything at this stage to correct the collimation, otherwise the vendor will accuse you of it. Keep us updated as to how it goes. Clear skies.

Which model tripod? I was using my ETX105 on DwarfStar mount mounted on a Manfrotto 055PROB with out issues on Saturday (25/07.2020) whilst viewing Jupiter and Saturn. I occasionally attach the AOK-AYO or Tele-Optic Giro to it as well. For best performance, I find it best not to fully extend the tripod legs and this will increase stability and minimise/dampen vibrations.

Here's mine.... ...and using with an e/p that says TeleVue. 😜

Have you tried it 'straight through' i.e. without the diagonal in place... or with another eyepiece?

I have just found this... http://www.opticstar.com/Download/Astro/Doc/Telescopes/Opticstar/Opticstar-MG152-Collimation.pdf

Top one looks slightly off. Middle one looks ok. Last one is slightly off too, but worse than the top one. With collimating any reflector 'scope, there are three sets of two screws... one for collimation and the other to hold it in place. The problem is... I cannot remember which one is which... doh! To make matters worse... for my ETX105, I first have to remove the backplate.

Hi @RobertK and welcome to SGL. I am a few junctions east of you along the M4 motorway.

Cygnus is my summer favourite in binoculars or 'scope... anything else is a bonus. I am mainly a solar, lunar and planetary observer.

I only have one 2" e/p to date and that is the Sky-Watcher 2"/28mm LET|LER Apex and is quite an eye-opener. Gave me some stunning views of Venus a few months ago in my 're-modded' ETX105 and Celestron C6/SCT-xlt. Beside my TeleVue e/p's, this is my most used.

If you want to push the boat out even further, you could add an SCT adapter ring, as shown below, to add the flexibility of SCT using accessories... ...my 're-modded' ETX105 c/w an SCT star diagonal.

BTW - I would keep the refractor as well, and think about a heavy duty mount and tripod/pier.

Hi @Boros. Question: Did you give the Mak. time to acclimatise to the ambient temperature before viewing through it? - I have a ETX105 and C6/SCT-xlt and give them a minimum time of thirty minutes before adding an eyepiece with the visual back pointing up to allow any heat/thermals inside the tube time to escape; (longer in the autumn/winter months, if taken outside from a warm environment, i.e. room in the house or vehicle). With a refractor 'scope this is not this is not so much of a problem. If you can submit some de-focussed images then we be be able to advise better. You should be getting concentric circles if the primary and secondary mirrors are aligned. If they are slightly out of alignment, then it will need collimating. All you need is an 'artificial star' and can be made using a shiny ball-bearing and a bright light source shining on it and can be done during daylight hours.

Hi @Boros and welcome to SGL. Well for £50.00GBP you got yourself a real bargain. I cannot help much regrading what the best coarse of action is, apart from investing in a heavy duty mount and tripod/pillar or have pillar permanently in the garden as this help will reduce vibrations, or if you have the necessary space maybe an obsy too, plus it will give you some and your equipment protection during the winter months. Also investing in a heavy duty mount, will be more accurate for imaging DSO's.

If you do decide to DIY... you need to remember the objective cell 'normally' comprises a minimum of two elements of glass, spacers, etc. If you don't feel confident, then it maybe best left to a specialist, i.e. someone or company that repairs optics and get a few quotes for the work. Then decide. I don't know whether SGL's sponsor @FLO can/would be able to advise, as your scope is second-hand.

Hi @Harlin and welcome to SGL. Did you remember to purchase a dew shield? - Mak's & SCT's are notorious dew magnets... Below is an image of my lightweight Mak setup Should be good enough for some basic lunar and planetary imaging... me thinks! "Probably the best lightweight visual 'grab & go' setup in the world!" - "Vorsprung durch non-tecnik!"

Hi again @Jeremiah. I forgot to add this image... It shows the eyepiece projection unit; (shown in the middle of the image); made for me by Beacon Hill Telescopes; (other ready made brands are also available, either as a 'fixed' or 'variable' length - see below for the Meade branded ones). I simply pop in a 'compatible' eyepiece and then attach it to my camera T-ring for afocal imaging. I have not tried prime focus; (i.e. the OTA replaces the camera lens); imaging with it. Meade #07363... projection tube/adapter (fixed) - I have a Celestron equivalent. Meade #07361... eyepiece projection unit/adapter (variable).