pete_81

Lots of interesting comments here about wifi ability, still have to get the system out into the garden outside, but for the first part, the setup will just be literally 6ft from the house - damp garden following the snow etc, so will work on the patio initially so I don't visualise the <5m being a problem for the wifi strength! @gilesco sums this up perfectly - use wifi if possible when running kstars on the RPi and one would be daft to use it without ethernet if not running kstars hard-wired to the mount in some capactity! Next query though... My guide camera is struggling to work with RPi - didn't have any success in ekos/indi, so tried with phd2 and it would apparently connect ok (which it also did in ekos) but I got the timeout message after the 15 secs, it had failed to receive any images. I'd read about USB2 being required as connecting the USB-B to USB-3 on the RPi creates all sorts of mis-matching in data stream rate, but no change. Camera works with PHD2 on the macbook, so whilst debugging on RPi, I may resort to MBP & KStars, just using a 3m USB extension to use MBP indoors, or might borrow the Mac Pro from work while lockdown continues 😄 Anyone advise on 'inexpensive' guide camera that works with Astroberry, or how to deal with the ZWO-ASI-120 equivalent T7C on RPi? Thanks again to everyone who has chipped in here, I've learnt plenty over the w/e and had scope + DSLR successfully connected, just need guiding to work a bit more successfully to avoid the startrails!

Only reason for not using vnc at present is I use Anydesk for work and found it much better than TeamViewer, no other reason, just know it works!

Thanks Rick, just about to update further here to say I'd purchased a 128GB micro SD and installed ('flashed') Astroberry and installed AnyDesk - I've just started playing with KStars on the MBP via AnyDesk, which is presently working flawlessly, so hoping to start connecting mount and guide cam, then DSLR and just confirming connections. Then all is set and ready to go! Ha, sounds easy... Watch this space!

For those interested and my own notes, I've just installed AnyDesk on the RPi and it runs really well with the MBP on the local network. AnyDesk is IMO better than Team Viewer and it just works so this will be how I plan to go ahead with the setup above... Next step is Astroberry!

Thanks @wimvb Had thought that might be an option later - the reason for the RPi400 is we need new computer at home, just for browsing web, email, and some word processing, and printing documents. The RPi400 is much cheaper than anything else around, and if it fails to deliver on the other requirements, it can be dedicated to Astro but yes, point about getting dedicated astro setup is noted and had been consideration, but to 'try' this setup will at least get me familiar with things on KStars + RPi. Again great advice and thanks to all for their responses on my checking of this type of setup and whether it would suit my requirements.

@teoria_del_big_bang, hoping to just run an ethernet cable to the RPi from router, then all should connect over the local network Thanks again Steve. Think this clears everything up!

Thanks all. @StevieDvd, mains supplies the power pack (nevada) for the mount, and will run the USB-C cable for the RPi from the same. Camera will just be running on batteries and charged once dead (I've several original Nikon batteries for this) @teoria_del_big_bang, a long response, thanks Steve! I'm looking to run a single RPi (the 400 model that I've just purchased), on the mount - as @Avocette states, this is the RPi 4 within the keyboard itself. I then hope to run Astroberry from this (just got a second Micro SD card so the RPi can be used by family, and when I'm imaging, I'll take custody and boot it up with the second memory card. Need to read the linked topic, but I believe I can connect to the Pi directly through a browser by using the local network on it. This avoids all the extra monitor, etc, but need to confirm this once I get things installed and setup. As you correctly mention, my understanding is this RPi will control the mount, guiding and camera. Ethernet is plan here once initial teething errors are ironed out, connecting RPi to local router and then running Macbook Pro to control the setup. I've just got the one RPi (going on mount) and MBP to control via teamviewer (or alternative). Like I've said above, I'm completely new to this, so a steep learning curve, but hoping to get the basics understood... As you say, we're both not that confident, so it may take a while to set things up, but once running, all should become easier! @alacant, USB is just USB-B mounting directly to mount (it's the newer AZEQ6 with USB-B directly UNDER the controller port, so don't need the RJ-45 type connector; RPi-400 has 3 spare USBs. Cables as stated above are MOUNT(USB-B), T7C/ZWO (also USB-B) and Nikon (using their supplied cable). Connecting all through Macbook whilst enjoying the warm indoors! Thanks again, sounds like it'll work. I'll update and share possible setup photos at some point

Hi all, just getting straight to the point. Just got a Rasp Pi 400 (equivalent to Pi4-4GB), and looking to get into guiding through this as it's obviously a popular (and successful) technique. Plan is to have the RPi as mini computer at home, running it with RaspPiOS (supplied on µSD with the full kit), then use it with a SECOND micro SD card for astro - I figure having another SD to run Astroberry (as on SGL) may ignore any issues with the family using the pi for other stuff in the house, giving a stand-alone 'computer' as the OS and files would be available on different SD's. From this point, I'd setup as follows: Connect the RPi directly via USB to the mount (it's the newer SW-AZ-EQ6Pro with the USB-B port on the mount) Guidescope (240mm f/4) with T7C (equivalent to ZWO Mini) again USB-B direct to RPi Nikon DSLR (either on telescope or using camera lenses) connected to RPi via Nikon USB (using the 3 USB points on the RPi-400) to control capture and later using this for plate-solving (but that's not for just right now!) I don't spy any flaws in the plan, it's just going to be a matter of testing and setting things up hoping to follow the guide for Astroberry as linked to SGL below... Or is there an alternative OS? From brief reading, Astroberry includes KStars & PHD2 which is what I've got for use on the macbook (although not used in earnest as it doesn't appear to like the cold too much!) What about guiding software - I know KStars comes with it's own, and can run PHD2 from within, with PHD2 being the industry standard (and simplest?) to use? Control will then be sitting in the warm via OS-X, which seems to be again a common technique as I've had posts on my other questions about this! Thoughts???

So, with a 1200mm focal length scope, high magnification is relatively easy but not recommended with the atmospheric conditions, lower exit pupil, etc etc... When I look at calculating TFOV's from eyepieces, I can use a 52º_30mm, or 68º_24 and get the same TFOV. Obviously there's a 20% difference in magnification (40x or 50x) but what are general reasons for the purchase of either EP? The 52 is likely cheaper, but is the 68 more 'useful' with same TFOV but higher mag? Is a 52 easier to use in that the observer doesn't need to move head around EP to see full image, so lower magnification is more preferential to see the full field in one go? Wider FOV is nice to get the 'immersive' experience but equally at the expense that isn't a necessity? For instance, the Pleades occupy 1º51', which will be fully visible in the following EPs with the 1200mm FL 52º 40mm (30x), 68º 34mm (35x), 82º 30mm (40x) The higher magnifications are better for splitting double stars, etc, but what factors/reasons do folks have for different EPs? I do like the wide field but budget wise and coming up to winter observing (and Christmas), looking at a larger TFOV EP. Those observant may also note my scope is f/4.8. Explore Scientific are likely my choice (hence the list of EPs above too). What's the ES70 like - they never seem to be recommended to the 68, and the 52 seem to have very good reviews throughout also...

Notes to self RE Nikon with KStars/Ekos/Indi: https://indilib.org/forum/ccds-dslrs/334-nikon-bulb-mode-with-kstars-ekos.html https://stargazerslounge.com/topic/332377-connect-nikon-to-ekos https://stargazerslounge.com/topic/356248-first-ap-rig/

Thanks @MarkAR, I had struggled with this before as there appears to be a directory reset which meant that I had no drop-down for camera/guiders available, even when connecting everything up. Eventually discovered "https://indilib.org/forum/general/4527-kstars-not-finding-indi-folder-in-osx.html" which solved the issue. I'll need to do some more on connecting the Nikon unless anyone wants to share here! Not tried direct mount/USB as yet due to cloudy nights but will attempt this soon! Hoping my old printer cable is the reason I'd not had success with this thus far... Regarding alignment of the mount (rather than polar) - I'd half hoped to stop using the controller and use wifi - is this possible (USB direct to mount from macbook, and wifi-dongle to do any alignment/slewing/simple-go-to, independent of kstars)? I think I'd like to have control of the mount without needing the macbook (phone control via wifi), but also if the macbook is connected that I can move using phone (or controller if this won't work, although I can't see why it wouldn't). How have you yours setup? I assume that KStars will continue to track position movement of the scope with the mount-on-board encoders? Can KStars work with the AZEQ6 in altaz mode to slew mount around also? Thanks in advance! Pete

Thanks for that Mark, looks like what I'd expected - we mac users can do all at once! Regarding alignment, how do you solve this then? Using the hand controller? Where did you set USB baud rate? I'm assuming setting wise (to get started) is to use: MODE set to REMOTE - how to select the Port, or is this set once stuff is connected (don't have scope access just now)? Internal guiding (rather than PHD2) Skywatcher=>Synscan Mount IndiHub Off Anything else or should that at least get things started? Is there a good place to start with KStars? Where does INDI come in or is that the under-the-hood stuff? What mount do you select

Hi guys, With new mount and upgraded scope features, now looking to venture into imaging. Before I start, I'm not looking to get feedback on polar alignment, mono guidecam, better imaging cameras, etc; this is more a 'dummies guide' setup discussion! I'm not expecting to get great images at this stage, just more the options available, getting over some issues, so that I can jump outside on a clear night with an ideal, foolproof(!), setup for either imaging or visual as time would permit and what may work best for me. As you may guess from the topic name, I'm a mac user (Macbook Pro) and would rather keep to this if possible (whilst I do have Windows (and Ubuntu) via parallels, I'd rather not use these). I've got a setup which has worked well for visual, and obviously want to have a couple of 'staple' setups that I can use depending on expectations of night observing or imaging. So far, the best one for me has been the Skywatcher Wifi Synscan controller, which has worked a treat with my Android phone - I use the Synscan app to complete alignment and GOTO stars/planets/DSO etc, or Stellarium_plus after completing alignment. This removes the need for the Synscan Handset and any USB cables to the mount altogether. But I don't know if this will work for guiding. That then brings me to my issue on mac - connecting USB(A) between Macbook and Handset, I've attempted to control the mount through Stellarium. Trying each of the available connections (/dev/tty.usbsetial-1420, /dev/cu.usbsetial-1420, and just for sake of it, the /dev/tty.Bluetooth-Incoming-Port and /dev/cu.Bluetooth-Incoming-Port) in the dropdown menu under DeviceSettings/SerialPort, I cannot get the mount to connect (well, more like selecting the telescope and clicking the "Start" on the TelescopeControl just results in the spinning icon and I have to Force-Quit Stellarium and start again with the same result each time. Annoyingly (for fellow mac users!), Parallels/Windows/Stellarium connects and controls the mount fine! As the mount is the newer "pro" type, I also have a USB connection directly under the hand-controller RJ45 and AutoGuider ST4 sockets, but using this still results in the same issue. Another issue I have seen is that when I unplug the USB from the computer when connected to the handset, the date on the controller jumps significantly - for example, last night at ~23:30, I was transported through the local wormhole galaxy to Jan 2048 according to Synscan! Obviously unplugging isn't going to happen during a genuine session, but just wondering if this is a possible issue somewhere?! Any other mac users connecting USB directly to the SW 'Pro' mounts? Software wise, would folks generally suggest steering away from Stellarium towards KStars or SkySafari(Plus) for controlling the mount? Can the Wifi dongle be used for controlling mount from computer (any OS) or do I need to go USB either to handset or directly to mount? Is there an issue in using Mac USB to the telescope compared to 'straight' Windows (i.e. PC/laptop with Windows instead of virtual)? Anyway, back to topic... I've a Nikon DSLR to use for primary camera at this stage, which would be triggered independently from guiding software. PHD2 is my hopeful choice of guiding software (is EKOS with KStars similar?), with T7C guide-camera on 240mm f/4 guidescope, and at this stage, I can confirm PHD2 at least connects to the camera on OS-X. There is an ST4 port on the camera, but having read several topics, I think I want to pulse-guide directly - is this correct or is ST4 best for this setup? This sorta comes back to software and connections - my understanding is one of the following cable setups for guiding (as a minimum) : Guiding-camera => USB(A) => Macbook => PHD2 => USB(A) => SynscanHandset => AZEQ6 Guiding-camera => USB(A) => Macbook => PHD2 => USB(A) => AZEQ6 Guiding-camera => USB(A) => Macbook => PHD2 => Wifi => SynscaWifi Adapter on AZEQ6 [using ST4: ST4_on_AZEQ6 => Guiding-camera => USB(A) => Macbook => PHD2] (no additional connections needed if ST4 is used) Additionally, I'd like to use an observatory package, say Stellarium/KStars/SkySafari, to select objects and drive the mount, then use guiding software to keep good 'tracking'. Where in this train does EQMac fit in, or when is it used? What about the 2019 addition to EQMod (ASCOM Alpaca)? Can this be used or is it already in other packages?! For Windows users, how does EQMod fit in (if I go down route of getting Windows laptop for controlling things, is the setup similar to above? There may be bits in the above that repeat, and for that, I'm sorry, just want to get across the message that I'm new to the guiding but haven't quite settled down into the software/hardware I'm expecting to use for 'goto' and 'guiding' TLDR: For a mac user, what setup and software are folks using for guiding and observatory softwares for the newer USB-on-mount 'AZEQ6/EQ6-R Pro' mounts from SW?

Hi Stu, I've upgraded from an EQ3 to EQ6 and had Sunday night for the first trip out since it arrived a month ago! So nice to have great skies and a mount that doesn't let the scope wobble when one even approaches it! Jupiter, Saturn & moon were my chosen targets and I just sat in awe! Last night was similar and I'm sure many enjoyed 2 nights of clear(er) skies! The EQ6 from FLO box does warn about the sun, but clouds too! Anyone else noticed this sticker?! Happy observing!

Thanks @fifeskies, Unfortunately, I've tried the sliding idea (without removing the scope though) but with the few mm of 'engaged' thread, the adjustable side of the puck twists over once slightly loosened so that sliding the ADM out is quite tricky, any twist to the scope makes it virtually impossible, and it's been easier to just unscrew the star screws, and as they've come out (pretty sure no more than 5mm), the springs drop out and I accept I'll pick them up once getting the scope safely inside. How much thread though do you think you have 'engaged' once tight - that is more my concern that there really isn't a lot of thread holding the full weight of the scope, and possibly more an issue when in AltAz mode which is how I'll likely be using the scope for the immediate future. I just felt it odd that the Losmandy plates seem to be a standard size, as one would expect, with big names such as William Optics, ADM, Primaluce, but the SW puck needs opened to what feels the thread limit - did SW not think that the 'wings'(?) on Losmandy's are all the same (~74mm with taper to ~69mm) so make a puck that won't need to be opened too much?? I guess my concern is that there is so much force on the few mm at the end of travel of the puck - the screws really are on their limits of thread, even when engaged with the ADM which surprised me the first time the scope went onto the mount! Do you feel this is the case?

Well, I've taken the plunge into this and purchased the SW AZ-EQ6 mount. Delivery took a little longer than hoped, and cloudy skies also proved an issue until Sunday night when I at last got the kit out. For the very first time, I have really REALLY appreciated my scope - Saturn and Jupiter no longer jump around in the eyepiece (even being a bit daft at 350x just for fun!) with the even just approaching the eyepiece, which was my experience previously. As mentioned at the start of this post, I think the original mount was equivalent to the EQ3, but clearly not cabable of the scope it had been sold with! So yes, expensive setup but SO PLEASED I took the plunge (although it's birthday, Christmas and any other occasions for the next few years all rolled into one!!!!!). Coming back to the Losmandy plate though @fifeskies, I was very surprised with the mounting puck, (got the full setup of mount, power supply & ADM Losmandy), which seems to be on the limit of adjustment for the 2 star-headed bolts (I reckon there's around 5mm of thread holding the mount in place when fully tightened and to remove the plate (leaving tube rings + ADM on scope), the screws are popping out of the threaded section of the puck - an easy fix to replace the M8x45 screws that are present, but wondering if you (or any other readers!) have found this issue with the SW pucks? Thanks to all with the advice offered previously, and to anyone else reading such posts, it again confirms that whilst Astronomy is expensive to start, buy big and buy once (until aperture fever kicks in!)!!!!

Got it. This site is great for showing the view of an eyepiece with the specs you put in (or use dropdown). It helped me figure out the best angles and magnifications for what my interests are - have a look and see if it works for you. http://astronomy.tools/calculators/field_of_view/ Biggest point I would say though is don't fret about spectacles. Also have a look at the post I mention above when I was looking for my upgrades, there was a lot in there that may help. Obviously there may be stuff to confuse too, but I was in the same place this time last year! Best thing about this site is everyone wants to help everyone. Let us know how things go!

Hi @omikron, Just browsed your post here, and thought I'd offer my choices too. Like you, I wear glasses (prescription is for seeing distant objects) but I've upgraded my plossls in my setup (f/4.8, 1200FL) to a few (68deg,24mm, 82deg,6.7mm and x2) Explore Scientific objectives, and whilst I can now use these while wearing glasses, the views are many times better without! You just have to adjust focus (slightly) for each observer. The total I spent on the lenses was around the €300, with the x2 throwing out of your budget, but cheaper than the televues which may be too good for my setup. I had also spent time looking at the Vixen SLV, but decided the FOV wasn't quite what I wanted, but they may be worth a mention? I also note Jonathan above says the same. The ES range appears to be great and was recommended to me whilst in a similar position. I was slightly concerned about the eye-relief (use with specs) myself, but don't regret going to ES. Hope this doesn't add more confusion to you

I know I've watched astrobuysell (UK) and done well there. There's lots of reports using SGL, but realised one needs over 50 comment likes (I think it is) to gain access to this area. Have the 500mm tamron mirror myself (on apsc Nikon) and enjoy the odd photo, but at f/8, other than the moon and bright planets requires good tracking on EQ mount, obviously its not the common way of doing it but works ok

@fifeskies, seeing the ct10 there, I've also been wondering about dovetail with the skywatcher - rather than getting new tube rings, I'd assume using the original tube rings on the SW dovetail works?

Thanks folks for these replies. Did suspect the jump to EQ6 range would be necessary and whilst they're not out of budget, I don't want to end up with an EQ6 type for a pair of binos (too good a mount for my scope). I do like the idea of the AZ EQ6, and wondering what people think of these. From reviews on FLO, YouTube, etc, they're at the top of the game, and they also appear to be lighter than the NEQ6 whilst having similar capacity and better functionality. Next debate to have is the other makes, is there anything comparable from ioptron or others at same spec and price point? Not really seem much and expecting to hear only skywatcher but why not ask?!

Hi all, My old telescope still gives me what I'd describe as great fun observations (I'm mainly visual at this point) of the heavens, but I've always had trouble (well, concern) with the tripod and mount. The scope is an Orion Optics Europa 250 (1200mm focal length, f/4.8), and the GEM1 Equatorial mount (Gazer Equatorial Mount, pops up on Google ok). I've added a few upgrades to the setup, mainly drive motors (both RA & Dec), cooling fans to the OTA, and a Crayford 10:1 focuser to better the rack and pinion supplied with the scope. The latest upgrades are Explore Scientific EPs from the plossls originally supplied. So, when observing, the RA does track reasonably well for short (say 10min) obs, but there are times I feel it struggles on occasion, or just loses tracking after pointing at one object for extended time. The mount generally sits well under the weight of the counterweights (coming in at 7+4kg) but there is a definite shake if the OTA or tripod is knocked. The GEM1 aluminium tripod (with accessory tray) weighs just over 4kg, with the EQ, RA drive, dovetail, tube rings and counterweight bar coming in at just under 5.3kg. With these stats, and lots of Google time, I conclude it's spec is somewhere between the EQ3 and EQ5 (eg https://stargazerslounge.com/topic/47747-orion-optics-europa-10-telescope-and-eq4-mount-worth-£250/). With the Crayford and fans, (no objectives/camera,etc), the OTA weighs in at 9.3kg, so here comes the question and debate... Is the issue I have that the mount is just not substantial enough for the scope? Do I upgrade mount, and if so, what is the ideal? Skywatcher seem to have the ideal selection/choice /distribution of mountings so I've been looking at the specs for each of these. Mainly payload capacity... I'm making some assumptions that I've a scope plus potential DSLR that'll take the load to 10kg, so I'm going to need at least that, and giving a bit extra, I'd be expecting to need capacity of say 15kg and that would give me an extra capacity that would allow other attachments (guide scope, etc) as higher quality tracking may be required... With that in mind, the EQ3 isn't even close. The EQ5 spec of 9.1kg payload doesn't really have enough, which pushes it to the Heq5 and above... The 13.7kg possible payload is into what I'd guess is ok, but should I be pushing towards the 15kg payload of the AZ EQ5... That brings me to the next point about the ALT-AZ... Am I right in thinking that in this mode visual astronomy is possibly easier, mainly that the OTA doesn't need rotating in the tube rings!does a counterweight need using in alt-az mode if the 2nd mount isn't used? The az-eq sounds like a very attractive option, bar the (almost) £1k, but as it is a single investment that will serve as the only tripod that would be ever needed for my uses. Or the next payload capacity is into the "6" series like the NEQ6 and beyond. Handling (weight) and cost are sorta off putters here, but if its the only way to go, then ok... TL;DR, which tripod mounting is sufficient to use with a 250mm,f/4.8 1200mm Newtonian that weighs 10kg OTA, and have some spare allowance? Lots to take in here, would appreciate advice!

Thanks @Ricochet! In the lens box now. Thinking this kits out well with the ES68*,24mm and the next on the target will probably be the 82*6.7, which will give me TFoVs of 1.3*, 1.1*, 0.65*, 0.45*, all with the exit pupil > 1mm, then a killer with 350x, 0.2*TFoV which should have 80% of the FoV filled with M82, exit pupil drops to 0.7, but may still be OK (read somewhere to try and keep it >1 for DSOs). Time to gaze and rest, then save some! Thanks for the advice to all...

Thanks @John & @rwilkey. Yep, all views on the ES say great, nothing really bad except for the potential size/weight increase to the scope (John posted great summary image of this on which I think sums up the issues with "good" focal extenders/barlows! Am I right in my assumptions that the ES_68*_24mm would essentially become a ES_68*_12mm with ER staying at the 18.4mm, affecting ONLY the focal length of the scope (not EP) => does the focal-extender change the SCOPE focal length rather than the EYEPIECE (field stop stays same dimension when solving equation for TFoV=FieldStopOfLens x 57.3 / FocalLengthOfScope. The focal length change consequently doubles magnification, so exit pupil halves; same thing as using an EP with half the focal length and same ER... Surely a TV-PM/ES-FE should be a part of everyone's EP kit IMHO😉

Post on: shows same thing - am I missing something to go for a ES focal-extender as a birthday pressie?!