Davesellars

It's not perfect but I used Startools Heal feature... Line -> grow blob selection to create the mask - this seems to take care of the majority although it woudn't remove it entirely through M33 itself. I'm sure someone perhaps better versed in Startools would make a better job of it though (I've only just come back to start using it again!!!)

Hi! Many thanks for the suggestion. I always thought that dark frames were necessary - what is the reason for not needing them with the 70D - am I just adding further noise?

Many thanks for the suggestions. I've got a feeling I may be able to just about squeeze 45-60 seconds unguided out of the mount but needs some experimentation. Next time I'll shoot for at least 50+ light frames to get a decent integration time. I've taken some dark frames at near enough the same temperature and also a bias set so once I've got some time, I'll go through it again and figure out StarTools properly...

So... After installing an RA drive on my EQ5 I thought I'd attach my DSLR and give it a go with some AP. Quite some years ago I used to have an NEQ6 and used StarTools etc. The "lowly" EQ5 is not bad... I polar aligned it fairly quickly and tracking with the single RA drive seems to be very accurate. Taken with the 80ED using APT with a Canon 70D. ISO 800, 30 second exposures. No darks nor light frames (I seem the darks being important to get eliminate the internal DSLR noise or something. which may explain why I was battling with an horrendous amount of noise after stretching...) 80% of 21 frames stacked in DSS (I have forgotten everything here and going mostly by the recommendations in the software...) StarTools - I have forgotten everything plus there's a whole bunch of new stuff since I last used it. (Completely lost!). Anyway, after clicking numerous random buttons I managed this...

Many thanks Steve! I hadn't considered Autostakkert so I'll try that and hadn't heard of PIPP before. Once I've got a bit of free time I'll re-process again using these to get used to them.

I had a bit of spare time during lunch break, so I popped on my 80ED with the Canon 70D on the EQ5 (RA motor tracking) I managed to fit the GPC/barlow that came with with my binoviewers into the Canon T-ring adapter so I figured this was giving somewhere between 1.8-2x with the distance from the sensor. Using APT for taking the photos at ISO 100 and 1/1000 exposure. 1st.. Focus is a pain in the butt. I could get close(ish) with liveview but then needed to switch to taking a photo then opening it and zoom in to make a judgement call on the focus level. I'm sure there's probably a better way but this took some time to do... I got there near enough to at least start taking some images and took 45 in total before some clouds swarmed in. The seeing was pretty good it seemed at least. Stacked and processed in Registax (50% best frames). The alignment seemed a bit wacky but lowered it to 1000 points. Some light wavelet processing which brought out the detail a bit clearer and then finished up in GIMP to colour the image which I think is better for the contrast (imho). It's far from perfect and I'm not sure why I'm getting what looks like a super-imposed offset image on it after doing the stacking (but it was fairly light) so I left it at that. Some nice granulation showing through at least!

APT (Astrophotography Tool) on laptop connects to your camera via USB and gives you the ability to use Live View.

2" Altair Astro prism diagonal for using with the 102ED and binoviewers. My planetary and lunar observing setup is now complete.

While using the binoviewers and turning both RA and Dec to a new location in the sky, I loosen up sufficiently the rotatable focuser and one hand on the BVs while I turn the scope into the new location - the BVs then naturally stay upright and then when in position tighten the rotatable focuser then lock the EQ5 axis and then use the slo-mo controls from there. I would also do the same with a heavy eyepiece otherwise you could end up in a dangerous position. With lighter eyepieces - obviously that's not necessary. I learnt finding targets with the EQ5 mount (8" SCT on it) and bought an Alt/Az quite some years after. The EQ has many benefits over the Alt/Az like not having balance issues and changing eyepieces without losing the position is so much easier (again more of an issue with heavier eyepieces). Tracking whether you've got the motor or not is simpler imho. As mentioned before by SkyBadger, as you read the RA and Dec lines of the atlas makes it very simple to find objects via star-hopping. For example, I've found attempting to traverse the Virgo galaxies is so much easier and sure with the EQ than using my dob when I'm having to rely on small movements in some direction. However, I like the Alt/Az for a lightweight setup with the 80ED and BCOs etc - this is a great combination for a quick setup and viewing clusters, larger objects or having a scan around.

Cleared here for a while so took the opportunity with the 102ED and viewing Jupiter with the binoviewers. Seeing was quite good - the GRS very distinct with good intense colour at 120x and really nice fine detail coming through at 180x Cloud over again just after 1am - it's pretty cold and damp tonight.

Unfortunately, I didn't get out last night after having been up all the previous night with a sick child so I was just too tired At 10:30 the sky was covered in a mass of contrails. I woke up once at 4am and stepped outside - the sky looked very transparent and Orion now visible, even with the Moon high up shining brightly, M42 was easily visible naked eye. Orion should be perfectly positioned next month to make an attempt on the HH around 4am with a bit of luck...

I had this problem with my 8" SCT the first time that I attached an SCT diagonal to the 6.3 reducer - It possibly may be a function of differing temperatures from when it was put on to actual use with the cold constricting the threads which then caused it to "lock".... I'm not sure. However, a strap wrench (actually had to use two as the diagonal was stuck to the reducer so I needed something to grip strongly the reducer at the same time as the diagonal) sorted out the problem - after that I bought a Baader Click Clock visual back to avoid it happening again! In fact, a strap wrench has saved my bacon many times for various things around the house so it's well worth having one! Boa 13-2612 Standard Strap Wrench, 8 inch : Amazon.co.uk: DIY & Tools Good luck!

It was completely clouded out here as well..

Heads up for tonight at 22:27 to 23:20. I've currently got some cloud but hoping it will clear...

I'd imagine that you will be keeping the VX6L - This will most likely give you better planetary and lunar viewing on the majority of nights than going larger as just mentioned the seeing here in the UK is rather limits the aperture and besides the long focal length and easier / exact collimation that you can achieve with that should ensure always a good sharp image (seeing dependent!). For DSOs though - you will really see the benefit from going large. I went from 8" to 12" which for me was a massive jump in capability. However, I've noticed that you haven't really stated if you're interested in DSOs which makes quite a difference to the decision...

While going to 8" from 6" will show a difference - you'd see considerably much more difference going directly to the 10" StellaLyra dob which is still well within your budget.

Nice collection you've got there! The seeing was really poor here last night. I was out for an hour or past midnight the sky was a just wobbly mess at 120x (was using binoviewers) and just seemed out of focus all the time. The Moon was a little better at least so all was not lost. I've just had first light with the SLV 25mm with a quick solar session although it's a touch hazy - It's amazingly comfortable! Hopefully it will clear properly tonight to get some decent views.

25mm Vixen SLV bought from ABS - absolutely pristine! I've not seen or used an SLV before - can't believe how small these things are!

It cleared quite reasonably last night around 11:30pm so got the 102ED out on the EQ5 with the newly fitted RA motor. Good news was the tracking with the RA motor running was superb while observing Jupiter with the binoviewers. Bad news was the seeing was completely abysmal and couldn't even make out the GRS that was apparently on show! - Most of the time the planet just looked out of focus and the air never steadied sufficiently. I switched to the observing the Moon for a while which provide a nice but wobbly view with the 12.5mm orthos for 171x. Not sure why I waited so long to get the RA motor as it's quite something just being able to soak up the view without it moving.

RA single axis motor drive controller for my EQ5. Easily installed and ready as soon as the rain stops and clouds clears.

Snap! I've had my EQ5 mount since 2014 when I bought it to put an 8" SCT on - it's a real workhorse! I much prefer using it an Alt/Az mount. After all this time, I've just bought an RA motor to put on it though as when binoviewing with it's a pain having to nudge it constantly. The F/7 102ED is a really great match with the EQ5 and agree with the rotatable focuser just makes using it a breeze.

Waiting to see if it clears again. Got the 102ED out as it was so clear at 8:30pm Went in for dinner and lo and behold it fully clouded over....

Incredibly a break from the cloud at around 11:30 so I managed to try out my new 12.5mm KK Fuyijama orthos in the binoviewer with the 80ED observing Jupiter for a little while.

If you have a Bortle 2/3 site to go to - Definitely go with a smaller scope that you can physically get there with... A 4"-5" refractor at bortle 3 will vastly outperform a 8" reflector at bortle 5/6! I'd recommend returning the 8" dob and either getting a 6" reflector on an alt/az mount ( Sky-Watcher Explorer 150P & AZ4 Mount Bundle | First Light Optics ) or even something like the Skywatcher 120ST refractor (although this is not that good for planets!)

I don't get that much time for solar observing but a Lunt Herschel Wedge would be great to have a permanently setup rig with my 80ED that's always ready to go. Oh, and a 13mm Nagler...