Lee_P

I've got one, just need some clear skies!

I may have a school interested -- will PM you with details.

This can actually be quite tricky given that cameras work differently to our eyes. I've found that the best "what you actually see through the eyepiece" pictures come from not photos, but rather sketches. See here for some examples of what I mean.

+1 for Cygnus Astro. I've written a short review here.

Hello and welcome!

So I went for the RC8, and have been busy putting it all together. I've got the balance sorted ok, guiding to around 0.8", and I've installed an upgraded focusser that works much better with my ZWO EAF than the stock one. My next hurdle is collimation and / or sensor tilt. I've had a go at collimating, but I'm probably quite wide of the mark. I had about 10 mins of clear skies tonight, so took two test images of Vega: one in focus, one out of focus. (That's useful for testing collimation, right?) I wonder if you kind folks could take a look and offer some feedback on what I need to change? Some of the stars look a bit iffy 🥴 Thanks in advance! VEGA DEFOCUS__5.0s_Bin1_2600MC_gain100_20220819-232216.fit VEGA_10.0s_Bin1_2600MC_gain100_20220819-233436.fit

My money would be on the Moon. Personally, I don't worry at all about whether the Moon is up when I'm imaging as modern processing tools remove the gradients really effectively, as aptly demonstrated by the examples in this thread! Full Moon or new Moon, I say just get out there and collect photons! It sounds like you're using PixInsight, so here's something to try: use AutomaticBackgroundExtractor with Function degree set to 2, and Correction set to subtraction. I find this combination does a very good job of removing gradients. Of course, your experience may differ 😁 Clarkey is wise!

I know right, this is big step! But after getting lots of valuable advice here on SGL, the other "faff-free" options looked like they'd only be incremental upgrades, whereas the RC8 is quite a jump but still affordable. I also feel like I'm maxing out what I can achieve with the FRA400, and want something quite different to give me more headroom to develop my skills. I like to experiment with my imaging, and I'm expanding that philosophy into hardware now. Will it be a successful or failed experiment though, that's the question..! Currently, I *think* I've collimated the RC8, but haven't had the clear skies to properly test. RCs are supposed to hold their collimation well, so I'm hopeful that once I overcome all the initial set-up hurdles, the faff-factor shouldn't be much more than the Askar FRA400 🤞 I haven't gotten rid of ol' faithful yet! I'll keep it until I've got the RC8 humming along, and even then I may keep hold of it as a grab 'n' go visual 'scope. No definite decisions made on its fate yet!

TS Optics 8" Ritchey-Chrétien. A lot more complex to set up than the FRA400, I reckon I still need a week of clear nights to get all the components singing in harmony!

Thanks for your kind comments, everyone. @simmo39 I've just bought a new telescope and am currently getting it ready for imaging, so now it's your job to fly the flag for the Askar FRA400! 😁

The Optolong L-Ultimate is now listed on FLO, with delivery expected mid to late September. Introductory price £349, regular price £389. Looks like this is the 2" mounted version. I've placed an order and plan on writing a review, including comparisons with my beloved L-eXtreme!

I've been using an Askar FRA400, and rate it highly. FLO have them for sale (out of stock though). I've written a review, and have lots of example photos (albeit taken with an ASI2600MC Pro OSC camera, so different to your 294MM).

It's really crazy to even attempt this target from my location and with my kit -- talk about punching above my weight -- but I figured it'd be fun to try! Image details below, and more details on my website. * August 2022 * Bristol, UK (Bortle 8 ) * Telescope: Askar FRA400 f/5.6 Quintuplet APO Astrograph * Camera: ZWO ASI 2600MC-PRO * Filter: Optolong L-eXtreme * Mount: Orion Sirius EQ-G * Guide: William Optics 32mm; ZWO ASI 120MM Mini * Control: ASIAIR Plus, ZWO EAF * Software: PixInsight, Photoshop, Lightroom * 840 x 120 seconds Total integration time: 28 hours By Lee Pullen

Given the price tag, this is what I'd expect...

Just spotted, more details here. Sensor: 3.4″ CMOS Sony-IMX461ALR-C QE peak：91% Back focus length:17.5mm/22.5mm Max fps: 3.77fps Full well: 50.3Ke Shutter: Rolling shutter Resolution: 101.99Mega Pixel,11656*8750 Pixel Size: 3.76µm Exposure Range: 32μs~2000s Interface: USB 3.0 Type-B Protect window: D79.3-4 AR ADC: 16bit Dimension: 43.856mm*32.9mm Weight: 910g Working Temperature: -5℃~50℃ Storage Temperature: -10℃~60℃ Working Relative Humidity: 0-80% Supported OS: WIN7/8/10 32&64、Linux、Mac

Thanks for the help! I swapped out the adapter kit-supplied cylindrical thingy for one that came with the EAF. That seems to have helped. But I'm not convinced by the quality of the supplied focusser. I'll give it a good go, but I've a feeling I'll need to splash more cash on an upgrade. I really don't like this "getting everything to work" stage of new kit, I much prefer the initial excitement, and eventual satisfaction when everything sings in harmony 😂

Hmm I take it back -- tightening that screw helped, but the EAF is still having trouble, particularly pulling the camera up against gravity.

Oh hang on. I think I've got it -- needed to tighten the screw underneath.

Hi all, I've installed a ZWO EAF onto a TS Optics 8" RC using the FLO-recommended 2" GSO Linear Bearing / TS Monorail adapter. The EAF initially seems to be working, but it doesn't always actually move the camera. It's as if it doesn't have quite enough power, although it's only moving a 2600MC-Pro and a filter holder. (The same EAF handled this fine on a previous imaging rig). Any ideas..? ZWO EAF.mp4

Askar have just released their 3nm ColorMagic dualband filter.

Probably too late for the OP, but I've finally gotten round to documenting how I use mains power for my ASIAIR Plus. I'll leave the link here in case anyone else searching for ideas comes across this thread. https://urbanastrophotography.com/index.php/2022/08/03/how-to-use-mains-power-for-your-asiair-plus/

I use an OSC camera from a Bortle 8 city centre (and have a whole website about it, with lots of example photos here, and you may find this article particularly useful) -- your Bortle 5 skies are much darker so it's possible for you too. FYI I use a ZWO ASI2600MC-PRO camera, plus Optolong L-eXtreme filter. I consider that filter, or one similar, as a must for narrowband targets (specifically hydrogen-rich nebulae). For broadband targets such as galaxies and star clusters, I don't use any filters. In general, when imaging from light-polluted skies, aim for long total integration times to get decent signal-to-noise ratio.

@Len1257 @Clarkey @CraigT82 Thanks for your help! As RC8 owners, can I just check something else... There are lots of RC8 telescopes out there with different branding, but they're all basically the same, right? Reason I'm asking is that the StellaLyra carbon fiber models are out of stock for a long time, but it looks like Teleskop Express and potentially 365 Astronomy have some TS models in stock. I'd like to try mounting the 'scope on my Orion EQ-G mount (similar to HEQ5), so a lower weight would be welcome. Also, these particular ones have Vixen dovetails top and bottom, which would save me having to buy a Losmandy adapter, given that my mount can currently only accept Vixens. That cost saving alone justifies the extra price of the carbon fiber models. So, I just want to check that there isn't something majorly different about the StellaLyras that I'm missing.

@Clarkey, could I please impose another question on you... Could you explain how you get the correct backfocus with a StellaLyra RC8? I asked FLO and got this answer: "Backfocus is around 255mm from the rear of the tube, a number of extensions are provided to reach this which are threaded in front of the focuser and added or removed as needed. If you set up your current ASI2600MC imaging train, you attach that to the focuser, rack out about halfway and then add tubes to make up the difference needed. You can then fine-tune via the focuser." What's puzzling me is that if you adjust backfocus using the focusser, then does it not follow that when you use the focusser to focus your image, that will naturally change the backfocus length? I'm sure I'm getting the wrong end of the stick...

OK, thanks, should be alright with my pier then!