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Everything posted by 1CM69

  1. Before I found Vital Parts here in the UK, I purchased caps from the US via Agena Astro: https://agenaastro.com/catalogsearch/result/?q=1.25” cap I’d try them if you’re in the US. I now see that FLO sell caps here in the UK so I’ll be buying from them in the future.
  2. This lens: http://s.aliexpress.com/J3IzQZZZ cheap but solidly built lump of metal, just got it to try some widefield with my 224MC.
  3. My memory is pretty bad these days & I cannot remember if I did get it all fitted. Move now got rid of the MoonLite & Celestron OAG and use SX OAG & SX Filter Wheel with a powered MicroFocuser. Sorry Ely I can’t help you out. Regards..,
  4. I pretty sure that CJD intends using his camera for DSO not as an ASC, as I have used my 224, so a Dark library & repeatable Darks is indeed necessary. Yes you are correct that the camera itself will give a temp readout but this is not controllable whereas using a temp probe give control. Although this temp probe is only giving the case temp & not sensor temp it bears a relationship and given using a selected exposure time is repeatable. This is how I use mine and it works. No doubt there are tweaks that can be made here and there, my current published design is a culmination of around 6 other iterations, taking the best from all of them to achieve a finished project that’ll produce results on par with the more expensive cooled versions of these or similar cameras at a vastly reduced cost. Cheers
  5. Mine gets below freezing too, everything depends on a temp drop from ambient. When used outside, as per normal use, the lower the starting temp the lower the final working temp. You would not get -15° if the ambient was 30° to start for instance. Not crowing either
  6. I guess you have already made sure if this but it is super important that the main mounting plate is completely insulated from coming in to contact with any of the other metal parts or the Peltier will be either trying to cool or heat this huge area.
  7. This is the TEC I use had no problems at all: HALJIA TEC1-12703 Heatsink Thermoelectric Cooler Cooling Peltier Plate Module 12V 27W https://www.amazon.co.uk/dp/B079DN16KH/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_api_.4MNBbWVZ7VKC Looking at the Farnell link, it doesn’t specify the manufacturer other than Multicomp is their own value brand & they source from anywhere. Peopke are knocking ‘Cheap’ Chinese but more than likely these days, it all comes from China. You can get a bargain by cutting out the middle man, IMO, just saying. Glad moving the box has helped
  8. Can’t vouch for the 30mm TEC, I specifically used a 40mm to match the alu block dimensions fully.
  9. You’ve mounted the small box on the fan side of the main mounting plate, it should be underneath as I have done. I know the sounds odd but it initially mounted it as you have only to find it restricted the drawing of cool air into the fan heatsink. Simple to test, you should notice an immediate benefit. Cheers
  10. 17.7% Waning Crescent Moon [2018.09.06] by 1CM69, on Flickr A 2 panel mosaic of the Waning Crescent Moon, each panel is a stack of 20 frames taken in BYEOS and then stitched in MS ICE. The stitched image was then tidied up and sharpened in PS. 17.6% Waning Crescent Moon [2018.09.06] with Earthshine by 1CM69, on Flickr A 3 panel mosaic of the Waning Crescent Moon, deliberately over-exposed to show Earthshine. Each panel is a stack of 20 frames taken in BYEOS and then stitched in MS ICE. The stitched image was then tidied up and sharpened in PS. Thanks for looking.
  11. Mars [2018.09.05] by 1CM69, on Flickr Mars was very low, around 12deg ALT so I am pleased to get this kind of detail. I captured 5xLRGBx60s sequences in SharpCap. Each one of the 20 .ser files was stacked in AS!3 & because of the low quality, turned out to only be 1% of usable frames. Then each resulting image was adjusted in RegiStax 6 using wavelets to bring out some more detail before being run through WinJupos for measurements, with each channel then derotated to produce a master channel image. I then made further slight tweaks to wavelets on these master images & then ran the 4 masters through WinJupos once again to produce master .ims files. These master .ims files were then used to derotate the RGB image. I initially added the L channel to the mix but found that it didn't really add to the result but in fact made things slightly worse, so I removed it. The image you see is purely RGB. With the final resulting image from WinJupos, I then made a few colour balance & sharpening tweaks in PS. Thanks for looking.
  12. I have now added this script to GitHub: https://github.com/1CM69/LRGB-Sequence-Capture Makes it far simpler if I make any changes or if anyone else wishes to. Regards.., Kirk
  13. Hi all, I’ve recently completed my first SharpCap script, you can find it here: https://forums.sharpcap.co.uk/viewtopic.php?f=14&t=1029&start=10 in plain text form, just needs to be opened in an editor and saved as a .py file (forum does not allow posting .py files) You can then add it as a startup script in SharpCap & it’ll add a custom button on the toolbar called LRGB Sequence Capture. The script purely automated the capturing of LRGB sequences, by time or frame limiting, so can be used for either Planetary or DSO. I have included a simple Help section but it is all fairly straight forward to use. Anyone is welcome to change/share the code but it would be nice if you shared any improvements. Regards.., Kirk
  14. Couple of things the postie just dropped off: ZWO ADC Bubble & TST2ROT Camera rotator.
  15. I totally agree, it’s almost like the developer got fed up part way through creating it. Like I said, I am very new to WJ and came to it by many people raving on about it. Like you said, it’s ‘nearly’ there but also lacking in vital areas.
  16. I have even considered if the whole process of using WinJupos with Saturn is worth the effort in the long run because unless you have top class equipment and totally perfect seeing to be able to make out the hexagon, Saturn only shows as various coloured bands going around the disc. Majority of images even from the pros look like a freeze frame blur of a ball spinning very fast. There are no real individual cloud structure details to pull out like Jupiter has and certainly no surface features as Mars. It might be just as easy or easier to stack filter captures then restack like filter stacks to make a master filter stack then assign each of these as layers to a colour channel in Photoshop or similar. Each layer can be manipulated to allow for change in planetary tilt. I still have data from my most recent captures so I may try this and judge side by side. Kirk
  17. I haven’t come across a dedicated forum as yet, I’ve just scrapped together various bit lbs of info while trawling the web. I have also had issues with edges like you show, more so on Saturn as you point out but I’ve had it on Mars & Jupiter too, especially ghost like double edges. All I can suggest is to ask one of the pro imagers, Damian Peach for example, for their input. If they use WinJupos or maybe there’s other software. I fiddle around with the LD level which can alleviate the edge problem but this also causes a loss of definition. Kirk
  18. Hi all, I'm very new to using WinJupos but seem to be experiencing some errors in the information it gives in the Ephemerides. On Wednesday 25th I captured some video of Jupiter, which processed fine as usual but I wished to enter more data on my final image like I have seen elsewhere, i.e. CMI, II & III etc... Great I thought, WinJupos can display all this info for me to gather and copy. However, even though the time, date & location is set correctly in WinJupos for the particular capture, actual Ephemerides data displayed is incorrect. So my location in decimal is: 51.076027, -3.755463 which translated to degrees & minutes is: +051 04, -03 45 so I know that it is correct in WinJupos Here is a screenshot in WJ Here is a screenshot from Stellarium I know that Stellarium is correct because it correlates with other software. Although both show a near identical DEC figure, the ALT, AZ, RISE, CULMINATION & SET times are way off the mark in WJ Any ideas? By the way, WJ is on the latest version 10.3.9 Thanks Kirk
  19. I'm very new to using WinJupos too so do not know that much about it's workings & I do have my own problem with it that I want to sort out but could it be as simple as you have not entered the coords for your observing location. I have also found that it seems to be particularly finicky with the frame aligning, I have been zooming in as far as possible making sure the whole image is still visible on the screen and aligning the frame that way. Using the contrast & brightness options can help find a "hard" edge to align to amongst the fuzz, be careful though as too much adjustment of these options can shrink or expand the image and make aligning more difficult. I initially followed this tutorial which got me off to a good start especially when using multi-datasets: http://www.thelondonastronomer.com/it-is-rocket-science/2018/6/7/a-quick-guide-to-planetary-imaging The bares bones of my workflow is: Start with the first recording made of the first dataset recorded; LRGB or RGB i.e L filter going through in order taken, (this means less toing & froing with the alignment frame), making sure to change the colour channel in the ADJ tab for the filter you are using before saving the IMS file. Once you have done this for all you datasets, from the TOOLS menu choose the 'De-rotation of Images' option and start by adding all your L filters IMS files from the previous step, this creates a master L IMS file. Do this now for all your R filters & so on.... Now in the TOOLS menu choose the 'De-rotation of RGB frames' and load the masters IMS files to their corresponding slots and hit compile. Also, I assume that you are first stacking each filters recording in AS!3 or similar without sharpening, go for the highest quality you can get, I do not go below 75% quality in AS!3 & on a bad day I get lower than 1% of frames to stack but obviously AS!3 only allows 1 as the lowest entry. Open the stacked image in Registax 6 and wavelet sharpen as much as possible without adding too much noise. This has to be done for all recording, very laborious and time consuming and you'll end up with a massive folder structure containing the various files at various steps but you'll find your own system that works for you. Hope this help somewhat. Kirk
  20. 6 x 3.5min x LRGB datasets captured using SharpCap Pro from 23:21:09Z on 2018.07.25 to 02:02:25Z on 2018.07.26. Each capture was stacked in AS!3 then each set was de-rotated in WinJupos before all datasets were combined in WinJupos. Some further tweaking in PS.
  21. 5 x 3.5min x LRGB datasets captured using SharpCap Pro on 2018.07.25 from 21:30:41Z to 23:11:59Z. Each capture was stacked in AS!3 and then each set de-rotated in WinJupos before all 5 datasets being combined in WinJupos. Then a little tweaking in PS.
  22. 5 x 2.5min x LRGB datasets captured using SharpCap Pro on 2018.07.25 from 19:58:02Z to 21:06:04Z. Each capture was stacked in AS!3 and then each set de-rotated in WinJupos before all 5 datasets being combined in WinJupos. Then a little tweaking in PS.
  23. All equipment as my Saturn entry here: Second time using multi-data set in WinJupos 3x2.5min per channel LRGB & blown away that I have actually got some surface detail considering the altitude of only 14deg & the dust storm currently on Mars.
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