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Everything posted by Thalestris24

  1. You might be better off with an oag on a c8. The avx tends to have a lot of DEC backlash - something to bear in mind.
  2. Hi It's not the most sensitive of cameras for guiding with (qe = 65) but it should be useable on brighter stars with a 50mm finder. The thing is first to make sure the camera is attached in way so as to enable focus on infinity. The SW finder has a fl of 180mm so you should be able to measure ~180mm between the plane of the objective and the plane of the sensor. Best checked during the day on a distant object such as a church spire or electricity pylon. Make sure you can adjust the focus to be slightly beyond that. As James mentioned, if all ok, try on the Moon and some bright stars. I don't know whether the qhy6 has any setup options such as offset and gain, but you might need to check that out. The camera is still sold so there should be up-to-date Ascom/native drivers available for it via the qhyccd web site (but don't go there without internet security / anti virus software running!). Here is 12dstring screen grab showing fov and image size of M44: Hth Louise ps what exposure lengths were you trying with phd2? You may need longish ones - 3 or 4 seconds. It's very easy to take a finder guider out of focus and you can then get a bit lost in the dark. If you can get sharp focus on a distant (~mile away) object, it should only need a very slight adjustment on the Moon/stars). Thereafter, you shouldn't need to refocus again.
  3. Hi See p29/30 of the manual. To polar align using ASPA you have to align on 2 stars plus a third calibration star before selecting another star to do the mechanical alt/az pa adjustments on. I've never done it myself. I think it's best to just use PHD2's drift alignment tool via your autoguide scope, plus platesolving to accurately locate end centre the target instead of doing all that time-consuming star alignment. Some people use SharpCap Pro, or PoleMaster, if you're rich... Hth Louise ps SharpCap Pro uses platesolving and can be done via a finder guider
  4. Thanks, lol, though I don't think I'd want to go that far - (my) life's too short! Louise
  5. Well a flat ceiling projection is no different from a wall. Maybe a 45 deg mirror attachment would make it easier. Louise
  6. May well have been - I didn't get the chance to ask/find out at the time. IIRC it wasn't colour and seemed rather poor compared to Stellarium on my PC. I've had a quick look at 360 deg projectors and standard home projectors. They can get rather pricey and I wouldn't want to spend more than ~£150. I was also thinking it would be nice to project tv onto a wall sometimes. Maybe I'd settle for a standard projector that I could optionally just point at the ceiling or the wall . I use my pc as a tv via a 27" monitor so it would be good to have a bigger picture sometimes. 4k projectors are rather pricey too, but maybe a hd one would do. Of course, I have the Oculus Rift S to play with I need to swap it over to the new graphics card - should be a better experience on that. Louise
  7. I'd like to project Stellarium When I was at Uni we had an old version of Stellarium projected on to the roof of the dome at our observatory. I don't know what was used to do the projection, unfortunately, though it was likely quite a few years old! If I could manage to cobble something together, I'd be happy. Louise
  8. Oh dear... I was thinking of getting a standard LED projector which I could use as is fo projecting tv etc. and maybe adapting it to also project astro things onto the ceiling. It's just an idea, and am musing over it. Louise
  9. Thanks for the reply! Yeah, I was thinking a fisheye would do it, but don't know if you can change the lens in a standard LED projector. Can I ask which one you have? Are you pleased with it? Cheers Louise
  10. Yes, fusion 360 creates an image of a standard thread from the McMaster-Carr database but it makes it into a real thread if you check 'Model'. Unfortunately, McMaster-Carr don't include a M42 x 0.75 thread . The only alternative I've found is to use the coil tool to create a T2 thread from scratch. If anyone knows an another way, I'd be interested to hear. I used the coil tool to create a T2 lock ring. The challenge is really to print threads precisely enough so that they mate properly and work as expected! Thanks Louise
  11. Oh, didn't know you could do that! D'uh.. I'm still a green noob! But it still sounds like trial and error... Do you by any chance know a way of adding a T2 thread to Fusion 360? I have come across references to doing this via a file in a particular folder but I don't have the files/folders that were mentioned, so unable to take that further. Any ideas on that? Thanks Louise
  12. Any tips re the lock ring?
  13. Hi again Neil Not sure what you mean by 'vertical'?? Not sure what you mean by 'compensating for hole size', either! I've kindof managed it by trial and error. I have been trying to modify existing T2 stl files. I've tried designing the parts from scratch in fusion 360 but there doesn't appear to be a standard thread available for m42 x 0.75, so I've tried to do it using the coil tool. Everything is always a bit hit and miss. I scaled one part (existing stl) by a factor of x1.001 and it just about fitted! Thanks Louise ps I'm still a bit stuck trying to print a t2 lock ring properly: As you can see, it's quite thin. The best I've been able to do is make it slightly small and click push it in!
  14. Yes, I know, thanks. It's also pointed out in the assembly guide Louise
  15. The lenses arrived from Surplus Shed today - yay! At a glance they look ok - no obvious scratches or marks. Each was individually wrapped and in its own little envelope taped to the packing note and inside a padded envelope. Looking forward to trying them out fairly soon Louise
  16. I came across the Sega Flux and saw it briefly demoed on YouTube. It made me think it would be really cool to project on to the ceiling and be able to fall asleep under the stars (yep, I'm an incurable romantic at heart!). Anyway, has anybody got/used one? They seem quite expensive for what they are, though. Got me thinking, surely one could adapt a led projector whilst running Stellarium? Maybe need a different lens that would give a wider projection than normal. Any thoughts? Louise
  17. Reading some of the comments here I'm reminded of Scientific American who used to do a 'the amateur scientist' column until sadly it came to an end in 2001. I used to love reading it even though most of the experiments were beyond my ability to do, often simply because I didn't have the wherewithal - always seemed like Americans had access to so many things compared to the UK. But, anyway, I obviously never saw the contents of the column as in any way competing with professional science. It was complementary, educational, and fun, and could bring scientific principles and experiments into the sphere of enthusiasts. I think I view amateur astrophotography in a similar way. Some people have better kit than others, and some have darker and clearer skies than others. But we can all have a go and have fun and enjoyment on the way. Does it matter that I can't make images that are anything like as good as most people on here? Nah, not at all. I just like messing about with telescopes, cameras, computers, software, electronics, optics etc. I'm not in competition with anyone! Louise
  18. Hi Ken Did you actually design the L200? I see your name appears on the sample spectra I wonder what you think of Christian Buil et al's Uvex3? I was thinking of having a go at building that originally - until Robin pointed out the lack of guiding in the basic design. However, knowing what I know now, I could incorporate the Lowspec reflective slit guiding and modify the case to use the Uvex3 layout. But I doubt I'll be trying that any time soon! The Lowspec is coming along. If I get the lenses this week I could be able to do initial testing Louise
  19. Hi Ken I take it that curve applies to the camera - grating view? Do you manage to get away with not having to change focus within the visible spectrum? Or do you take exposures in sections? Louise
  20. Ender 3 Pros are pretty much stock items and semi kits and rather cheap already, so unlikely to be discounted. I got mine from Amazon Louise
  21. Hi Gina I'm trying to avoid it as much as possible! Fusion 360 doesn't have an inbuilt M42 x 0.75 thread type so, as far as I know, the only way to do it from scratch, is to make one with the coil tool. Seems to work ok but that doesn't mean the printed result is good enough to mate with a purchased component, unfortunately. There must be some dark occult spell involved... Louise
  22. One thing about sending abroad - take note of the format of other countries' addresses (Royal Mail lists them). Always put a return name and address on the reverse of a package. As for post going to the wrong country - I've no idea how that happens! But always write countries names clearly and in capital letters. Never use labels for valuable items - use a 'documents enclosed' packing envelope instead. Louise
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