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Thalestris24

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Everything posted by Thalestris24

  1. So it is! I confess I hadn't looked at the PHD2 log....
  2. Hi It's probably your com port selection. If you have several usb ports, just try each com port number in eqmod. Avoid using a hub. Also, if you're still stuck, try running the Ascom diagnostic. Louise
  3. Well, to date, I've done all my imaging through open windows in my flat. It's not ideal and thermals limit my guiding (imaging term... ) but I'd have thought observing should be doable also. Louise
  4. Well, rebooted - battery icon came back and usb 3 port working again! Windows 10, eh? Switching off from all things astro and tech now, gonna just sit and watch some tv Louise
  5. What's annoying is that there's no link to the correct url on their main page (that I could see). The broken link was on a piece of paper in the box for the gpcam3 I recently bought. Oh well. I'm not even sure if I really needed it in the end! It's a usb 3 camera so I plugged it in a laptop usb 3 socket. Power light came on but couldn't connect I switched to a usb 2.0 and it worked fine (with the usb 3 cable). I know my usb 3 port works normally so dunno what was going on there. Connecting to the usb 2.0 worked fine with SharpCap. Anyway, gpcam3 178m now installed on a Travelscope 70 ok . The qhy5l-ii mono that was on the scope is destined for the Lowspec Spectrometer guiding unit. Musical chairs for astro cams! Meanwhile, I updated Win 10 on the laptop earlier and the battery icon has disappeared! Tut! I'll have to search for a solution to that next... Louise
  6. Hi all Have been trying to download Altair camera software/drivers. I'm pointed to cameras.altairastro.com but just get an error at that url. Anyone know if that's because it's 'out of hours' or whether I need to go elsewhere? Thanks Louise
  7. Hi Neil Shame you haven't got Ascom. I found some other complaints about SharpCap not recognizing the asi1600. It relates to v2.9 and 3.0 have you got the latest v3.2.6137? Louise
  8. Hi It says on their support page to 'be sure to select the correct unit before connecting' - could that be an issue? Also says it includes an Ascom driver, so that should allow control from any image acquisition software that supports Ascom focusers. Louise
  9. Wow! Far out, man! (as us old hippies use to say ) Louise ps is that the same image that appears on the Lunt site? https://luntsolarsystems.com/ls50c-etalon-timelapse-please-click-the-gif-file/
  10. Hi Neil I don't know why SharpCap would be stuck but what frame rate are you trying to run at - lower might be better. I remember I had problems trying to run my qhy183m but using the Ascom driver worked (even though SharpCap moaned). Have you got the latest version of SharpCap installed? Louise ps isn't ASICAP for Android? Maybe you have a usb problem?
  11. Well, that sounds encouraging! There's a wide mix of Glasgow lighting types contributing to the skyglow. Even with Ha I'm limited. I usually don't bother trying to do anything until the nearby all-weather pitch switches of it floodlights after 10pm. I'll just have to see what I can do. Louise
  12. Yes, SharpCap can control cooling and do long exposures ok. However, the length of my subs is generally limited by the city skyglow . With the Atik383l+ I can probably do 360s with a normal sub but then I'd be using a lp filter or Ha filter. Not sure how long I'll be able to get in pure luminance. That looks a nice Eta Carinae spectrum! That is about mag 6? So quite bright and the Atik314 has quite a high qe. My Atik383l+ isn't so sensitive so presumably would need longer exposures. My snr would be a lot poorer. I can only see to the East and not much higher than alt=35 deg. Nothing involving astro imaging is simple or straightforward for me! Louise
  13. Oh, ISIS not IRIS! I have some image processing software called IRIS... SharpCap pro does live stacking with optional darks, flats and auto alignment (or can just guide with PHD2). I can't see any way to take flats, though. Not sure about image measurement. Louise
  14. Hiya I'd not really thought about specialist imaging software - I kind of assumed I'd be able to do it with SharpCap as I did with the Star Analyser? Is Christian's IRIS a possible? Possibly AstroArt, especially as you recommend it , but I wouldn't want to fork out for something unless I already know all the kit is working ok. I don't get the best guiding here, not helped by having to do my imaging through an open window... So I might put everything together only to find my results are rather poor . Thanks Louise
  15. Hi Ken @Merlin66 Useful info in your last post on Rockmover's thread Paul changed his design slightly - he made the camera fl = 100mm and dia 30mm so fr = 3.3. However, I currently have one which is fl=87mm and dia=26mm (fr=3.34). It should allow attaching my Atik without too big an extension. My collimator lens is fl=121mm. So with a slit gap of 20 um it would appear as 14.4um. With my Atik383l+ that means it should cover 2.7 pix when focused. I suppose that means 3 pix in practice? When I've tried to test focus the collimator it's proved quite difficult since illuminating my diy practice slit from the 'scope' side tends to generate diffraction though I did get some ok images via Sharpcap. However, I'll be testing it more properly with all the right components in place - hopefully within the next week. Um, I have been assuming that, on its own, the imaging camera is focused on infinity/a distant object? Hope that's correct... I was using a second test mirror to see outside through a window with a Touptek camera in place of the proper imaging camera. I was able to get an image of distant objects ok. I'll repeat with the Atik attached next. I understand that an attached scope will focus it's image (normally of a star) on the slit? The photons which exit from the slit are collimated by the collimating lens which transmits the beam to the grating and the spectrum is then (hopefully!) seen by the imaging camera. Hope I've got that right! Thanks Louise
  16. Thanks for the suggestion re Tinkercad. I can do it in Fusion 360 and the original lowspec stl files already had T2 threads. At the end of the day it's trial and error to try and get the print to work properly however you generate threads. I have the magnetic bed also and it does make it fairly easy to remove most things. Louise
  17. I think I'm really enjoying this projector! It frees up my PC monitor and lets me lay back and watch from a distance. Must be better for my eyes too. Why didn't I think of doing this before? Louise
  18. The struggle is half the fun! If it was made too easy it wouldn't be so interesting. Overcoming hurdles is how you learn about something
  19. Ah yes, I recognise it now - not used to viewing it like that! I just took a 1" round mirror and cut a short line in the backing with a scalpel. Then just taped it in place. Not good enough for a proper slit (though maybe with a new blade and a bit of practice...)
  20. I don't recognise that diagram - where is it from? It's the non-shiny side that's used. I found it a bit confusing and counter-intuitive too. However, having tried it out I believe it will work ok. The guide camera is focused on the slit. The telescope is also focused on the slit. The guide camera can then see the star and can guide on it. I think it might be quite challenging to get a particular star lined up with the slit.
  21. Yes, it's a reflective slit though, as I understand it, the shiny/mirror side points in the other direction. The side with the numerals in mirror image is the one that points to the scope. ps as you see I made a slit from one of the round craft mirrors I bought. Used the non shiny side for the reflective side.
  22. Well I used a diy slit - https://stargazerslounge.com/topic/343342-the-lowspec-spectrometer/?do=findComment&comment=3746287
  23. Because it's reflecting light from the slit to the guide camera - via the guide lens
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