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Everything posted by Thalestris24

  1. Hi Steve I'm a 3D Noob and I bought an Ender 3 Pro Specifically for printing the Lowspec spectrometer, though I'll use it for other things too. It has taken me about a month to get to grips with the printer and to print out the Lowspec design. I've been teaching myself Fusion 360 in order to be able to create slightly different parts and to edit the .stl files because things don't necessarily fit precisely. It's been a challenge but quite an interesting one. I'm not a mechanical engineer, lol. I tapped my first ever thread the other day! Fusion 360 is really good, is free too, but there is quite a learning curve. I've been able to use it to make T2 rings and custom holders for lenses. Of course, there are many videos on YouTube though some are a bit old. Some of the optical parts for the Lowspec are quite expensive (for me!) but if you have an Alpy 600 I'm guessing you don't want to actually build another spectrometer? Louise ps I started a separate thread for the Lowspec:
  2. It says on the About menu...
  3. Yes but is there any way I can tell what version of firmware I have?
  4. Ok. How can I tell what firmware version I have? Thanks Louise
  5. Are Creality lying on the Amazon link above?
  6. I've seen that but the recent posts (above) suggest Creality has updated it since August. How can I tell? Louise
  7. Oh well, never mind! Anyway, I just want mine to print parts fairly accurately
  8. Creality say the Ender 3 Pro does have (some flavour of) thermal runaway protection but I don't know how to confirm it? https://www.amazon.co.uk/ask/questions/Tx37GPPGCUY989Z/ref=ask_ql_ql_al_hza Louise
  9. Oh ok, mine does sound like R2D2/morse code ha ha but I quite like I I just have an otc Ender3 Pro but it does what I ask of it. I've no idea what Martin 2.x is either... Thanks for the info Louise
  10. What are the 'BLTouch' and the SKR board? Louise
  11. Yeah, I have asked them if I can exchange it, otherwise it's an expensive mistake. It was so easy to click on gr25-610 instead of gr25-605... I just wondered if it might be of any use at all Louise
  12. Unfortunately, it is I'm in a red zone... I have a qhy183M which has a QE of about 84% but even with narrowband I'm up against it. Louise
  13. Sorry, I was confusing you with Calzune's OP. My bad, though same principles apply The 50mm finder will be fine. You really don't want a barlow on your guide scope - better off having the wide field of view to select guide stars. PHD2 is very good at sub-pixel guiding because it calculates the star's centroid. As regards calibration and guiding, make sure you manually select a star with good snr and not clipped. Adjust guide exposure to be around 2-2.5s. The small pixel size difference between 8.4 and 9.8um won't make any difference, I don't think - lots of people use Lodestars. When calibrating find a star at about 30 deg and in the region of the sky in which you are imaging. When guiding monitor the bullseye - if there's an offset to one side it's likely you are out of balance. If you can't get a decent calibration you'll have to investigate why that is. The Guiding Assistant can give you a lot of info. Louise ps make sure none of your cables are dragging on the scope!
  14. It shouldn't matter whether target and guide images are centered. Have you entered the focal length of your guide scope into PHD2? Are you displaying the basic PHD2 tools that you need - guide star profile, bullseye target etc. What PHD2 settings are you using? If you're imaging with the Evo 72, that's a short focal length so guiding requirements are fairly minimal and should work beautifully on your mount (If your seeing is good you should get guiding accurate to with an arc sec or 2, run the PHD2 guiding assistant to see how your mount behaves without guiding). Balancing out the dslr might be tricky. I take it you are pulse guiding with Ascom/Eqmod? I've no idea what you mean by "the photosite size of the guide camera was not accurate", and why are you using a Barlow - not a good idea! Maybe you can get a log file and/or a screen clip showing it all in action? Louise
  15. I think I made a boo-boo with the diffraction grating. I only just noticed that I inadvertently bought one with a blaze wavelength of 1um rather than 500nm. Tut. I'd just looked at the lines/mm I assume it won't work too well (if at all) in the normal visible range? I've not opened the case so maybe Thorlabs will let me exchange it... Louise
  16. Yeah I use Ha filters, either 7nm or 3.5nm, to no avail Louise
  17. Yeah, as I said, with a belt mod, you don't want or need East heavy. You want perfect balance in all three axes. People often forget to position the scope vertically and check it's still balanced ok i.e. stays in the vertical position without falling to one side. Of course, you also have to make sure your guidescope is rigidly mounted without flex - more critical with longer focal lengths. Louise
  18. Hi Well, starting from having your eq mount pointed north, then the RA axis will track the stars from the East to West. By arranging for the balance to be biased slightly to the East, it will ensure that the weight of the scope will be pushing against the cogs of the RA motor and not able to 'flutter' around in between the cogs. Having a belt mod eliminates the motor cogs and hence the RA backlash. You can still have similar problems in DEC but you can reduce that via balance adjustments also or by being slightly out of PA, so that the scope drifts in one direction and is easier to manage. Similarly, a belt mod eliminates motor gear backlash in DEC also. There can still be issues with the worm gear meshing but you should be able to adjust that to minimise any problems with it. Pointing at the zenith can also be problematic and you have to think about readjusting balance as the scope moves down to the West. I should probably mention that it's a good idea to start of with correct balance in all 3 axes that the scope can move in. Then, if you don't have a belt mod, you can do your East heavy tweaks. This balancing malarkey can be slightly more trickier with a Newtonian than with a refractor, partly because of how a camera is mounted. Hope that helps. If I've missed anything, I'm sure someone will chime in E&O.E. Louise
  19. Just had another, same-sized box of goodies to accompany the 0.5" mirror! Ho ho ho Merry Christmas, Thorlabs!
  20. Remarkably good for such short exposures ! I can hardly pick up even much of a hint of a nebula in half an hour or more of 5 min subs Louise
  21. It's maybe worth bearing in mind that alignments are only as good as your inputs e.g. lat long, time of day. Time of day on computer also. Likewise inputs to your Stellarium or other planetarium software. Louise
  22. Make sure you're well-balanced and fairly close to being polar aligned before calibrating with PHD2. Having the Rowan belt mod is the best way of dealing with backlash but, failing that, it's recommended to arrange your balance to be slightly East heavy. Louise
  23. Just had a delivery from Thorlabs Gmbh via UPS. It was a rather large and heavy box for a 1" mirror and a diffraction grating: German sweets, lol. Brought a smile to my face! I presume it was a 'first order' present! A 0.5" mirror due from them tomorrow... Time for a coffee and a sweet Louise
  24. After all that I've had a second invoice from Thorlabs for the short-shipped mirror! Not very economic to separately ship a single 0.5" mirror but I think I'm happy! At least I don't worry about where to get one from now. Louise
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