CedricTheBrave

I used this guide to create an adaptor with a M43 x 0.75 to connect a Morpheus to my DSLR T thread adaptor.

very pleased with the result

Thanks for the info

My collection s growing!!

2 minutes ago, andrew s said:

You have to remember even the gods at Takahashi provide telescopes with issues as on noted by threads on SGL. Poor focusers and funny stars in the corners on some models.

Regards Andrew 

I sent a Baader steeltrack to fit instead of the stock focuser they supply also specifying the backfocus i wanted so I hope I have a few bases covered :0)

having a VX14 nearing the end of production this does worry me.

I will however be collecting mine rather than rely on their packaging!

mines a 200pds and the bar is 334mm i guess it would be the same 

weird size though!

meters

this is awesome very useful thanks 

it broke my platesolving at first but its sorted now 

everything else appears ok inc autofocus

1 hour ago, billhinge said:

If you had the cash, no questions asked, would you be tempted to upgrade to an eq8-r just to be 100% certain weight was never a problem? Say mounting a C11 plus heavy cameras for example

on my list

Super impressed with my Cr10s Pro V2!

its been really easy to setup and get some prints out and the quality of the print has been amazing.

great bit of kit

maybe not grey because its a modified dslr?

5 hours ago, wimvb said:

As @newbie alert already noted, if your flats are not working, you need to check if they have a correct exposure. Flats should be mid gray, and the histogram should be in the middle of the display on the camera (assuming you use a dslr). Before you apply flats in your calibration process, they themselves must be calibrated. This is usually done with bias exposures. If you haven't done so already, add bias frames to the calibration and stacking.

ok i get you i will redo my flats looking at the histogram, everyday is a school day cheers

6 hours ago, wimvb said:

Very unlikely. The image rotation information is not used by the calibration software, only by image viewers. To see if flats work, you calibrate one flat sub with the master flat. The result should be a fully corrected and uniform, mid gray image. For osc, there may be a colour bias.

thanks for this

see image of one flat calibrated against the master flat so it looks like its not working, you can see the bunnies also the vignetting is obvious

screenshot of dss 

My stacking process does not appear to get rid of these

am I asking too much?

see below image rough process just to show the issue and a jpg of one of the flats that shows the dust bunnies (at least thats what I think they are)

20 x lights

10 x darks

20 x flats

is it possible the flats are rotating 90 degs as if I open one of the raw images in Affinity it opens in portrait but the lights and darks are landscape! as its done here !!!

6 minutes ago, discardedastro said:

That's quite a lot - likely the mount is being pushed around or moved if there's that much error between sessions.

I don't use Astroberry but in KStars/Ekos I start all my sessions by wiping the alignment data after unpark and a quick focus if required, and then running the Ekos mount model tool which will point the scope at 8 or so (configurable) different areas of the sky and give you a great basis for future alignment calculations. Only takes a few minutes and sets everything up pretty well regardless of the intervening conditions.

I do find that - especially since I slacken my clutch bolts a little once I'm done for a night - the wind will tend to push my mount around a bit under its cover, so parking won't guarantee a repeatable alignment that's worth considering, so just starting from scratch each night is easier. Within an observatory, parking for the purposes of maintaining alignment is probably viable.

going to try the wipe data and see how it goes 

thanks for the time

On 29/12/2020 at 09:05, SupernovaF1 said:

It is curious to see how different other people do things. I generally do focus first, polar align (I target less than 1arcmin), slew to target (takes usually 3 iterations to get within 15arcsecs), activate guiding and then take pictures with focus for each filter. No plate solving at all.

Regarding your issue, how far off is it? And how far off was it when you were doing it initially?  5 to 10arcmin differences should be normal. If its more and you already checked that date, time and GPS are accurate, it could be cone error. Cleaning the mount model helps.

I would suggest in any case, mot parking the mount indeed. Keep it tracking at sidereal rate. Dont switch off either. 

For visual, i would also suggest using the guide camera on your scope, make sure its aligned so both scope and guidescooe point at the same target and use that to plate solve / slew to target in EKOS. Should be less than a minute to get spot on.

 

this far out 'Target is within  04° 37' 37" degrees of solution coordinates.'

ah if i select RGGB8 OR RGGB16LE it will work

they are the only other options over BGR24

so you are correct top man

4 hours ago, JamesF said:

Been looking at another problem that Stuart1971 raised, also on the RPi, and then this one is next on my list.  Had to download Astroberry first, which takes a fair while with my internet connection

James

cool

ordered a CR10s Pro V2 in the end!!

you can never be too big

any joy on this James?

jumping on this thread what are peoples thoughts on the Creality CR-10S Pro V2?

looks like it ticks all my boxes 

i haven't even took delivery of my VX14 yet and this thread has given me upgraditus

yes Asi290mc on astroberry latest build 4mb rpi4

just cant appear to get OACApture to save an avi only a ser file

it comes up with the error 'Unable to create file for output'

Hi James can I ask a support question on here or is there a place dedicated?