CedricTheBrave

6 minutes ago, Adam J said:

Huum 50673 is closest to the mark but slightly smaller than I would have expected give the quoted number if pixels. In each. Case what's the size of the image in terms of pixels? 

Affinity says its 25.9mp 6224 x 4168px

I have recently purchased one of these and I have been quite impressed with it so far

Previously I have been using Ekos/kstars on my Rpi4 but reecently I have started testing a Windows mini PC with NINA installed to see if things are greener on the other side.

so far I really like NINA but would anyone know why the fits files sizes are so dramatically different when using ekos/kstars on my rpi4 to when I use it via NINA?

Rpi is the larger!

is it any better if you are viewing through a monitor rather than vnc (or whatever you are using)

there was a firmware issue that caused slow data speeds on USB3 with SATA drives I am not sure if it was eventually resolved or relevent but this link here refers to it https://www.raspberrypi.org/forums/viewtopic.php?f=28&t=245931

great work well done

very cool

I am in the middle of moving from KStars/Indi on an RPI to NINA on a small PC 

so far its just been a learning curve finding where everything is and how to see what you want but I am very impressed.

The sequencer works very well I have had no issues with tracking and the plate solve is ligthening fast 

I like the fact the screen is so customisable so you can choose what is important for you to see and erros reporting is very good when you have done something wrong ( quite often for me)

so far so good for me

I fitted a steeltrack to my 200pds using existing hole but just drilled new mount holes to fix so it should be ok to move the mirror up by cutting the tube as mentioned

i have the steel track on my VX14 now its a great peice of kit and very solid also like the dovetail attachment for the focus motor.

have you downoaded the Astap database files?

you can use any star image to test it when offline or in the daytime

I dont think it syncs until it is happy its within the target

with mine it only does it twice anyway (usually)

Looks great,

1 hour ago, ONIKKINEN said:

First light has come and gone!

Just a quick and dirty shot of M81-M82 with 80 minutes of 30s subs from bortle 6-7. Mostly the point for this was to see the colour response (particularly in M82 H-alpha) and what kind of other issues it may have. This was an ideal target for me since i already imaged this with a DSLR so i have at least some way to compare results. Looks like the starburst H-alpha from M82 is nicely red, starcolours are there and faint fuzzies start appearing at this low integration time. Even Holmberg IX is a somewhat detectable smudge below M81. Taken through a Baader UV/IR cut filter in the image train as the camera advertises sensitivity up to 1000nm which im not interested in.

The data is a joy to work with, absolutely no amp glow and generally just very noise-free. Bias frames have a median ADU of 768 (which is the offset) and 30s darkframes at -10 have 769.

The upper left corner of the image is a bit concerning to me with its oblong stars. I checked collimation after shooting (forgot) and it wasn't quite right. I did collimate before leaving but i must have banged it somewhere during transportation. Also could have problems with backspacing or sensor tilt. Hoping its not sensor tilt as the camera has no tilt-plate to control this. Also could be polar alignment drift because i did not guide in DEC, more nights out will tell what was the cause.

Looks great! I got mine the other day and have started to play with setup for when a get a chance to use it properly.

It is the SW Coma corrector but its also a 0.9 reducer 

Nikon F Mount is 46.5mm focal flange length so as long as the T Ring is 8.5mm then the Nikon should also be 55 

I have 3d printed a mixture of spacers to try out so now await a clear night

4 hours ago, michael8554 said:

Post a jpg of a problem sub.

Specify which OTA and CC.

Michael

 

This was a few nights ago. its a bit messy but shows the issue.

OTA is my VX14 and the CC is the Skywatcher 0.9 reducer one

i dont get this issue with my Nikon only the Canon but the nikon is no astromdded and its BF is 46.5

M_27_Light_180_secs_2021-08-11T00-37-55_009.cr2

Just now, bottletopburly said:

I have a baader mk3 which I tweaked to 57.1 mm 

ok thats interesting thanks

I have been battling with coma on my Canon 700D but now I realise that it maybe the position of my coma corrector

the BF of the corrector I have states 55mm and the T Ring appears to be 10mm so with the 44mm of the Canon I am 1mm out to start with!

would the fact that my Canon is also astro modded make the BF further back or no different?

Dave 

My D7000 is the same but my Canon 700D has live view working when connected 

3 hours ago, Danjc said:

Fair play, I had it in my head it was just get it through the garage type scenario not the krypton factor. 

that just about sums it up 

On 09/08/2021 at 23:06, Danjc said:

Have you considered using a barrow mix company for the concrete. You only pay for what you use. The mix is made there in a hopper,  you pop your wheel barrow under the back fill it up and away you go. The guy who turned up the other day for my footings had his own barrow and helped. I know you still have to move it through the garage but it’s really quick and easy method. 
 

yes I have thought about that way but the convaluted way i have to get it through the garage and utility room then turn right then left and right again and up a small flight of steps puts me off 

36 minutes ago, old_eyes said:

That was my build (thanks for posting the link @Davey-T).

The obsy is standing on adjustable plastic decking risers placed on paving slabs. It worked great. Easy to adjust for slight ground variations. No levelling of the site at all, just plonked everything down and used the adjustable risers to level the obsy.

I used four ground anchors from Spirafix as well. Not to support the structure, but to tie it down for the storms we get fairly regularly. Possible overkill, but I did not fancy trying to collect the obsy building from a nearby field.

For two years the obsy has been solid, just some flexing of timbers as they dried/equilibrated. So much so that I used the same decking risers strategy for a summerhouse we added last yeat. Without the ground anchors this time as the summerhouse was solid wood and heavy, unlike my timber frame and corrugated sheeting obsy.

Any questions on the experience, continue the thread or DM me.

old_eyes

Now thats a weapon!

Pretty sure I am not on bedrock but I know its clay about 2ft down

2 minutes ago, fifeskies said:

Not used these but I think they will work fine in the UK where we do not get significant deep frost to cause ground swell.

Slight movement of the ROR shell will not bother the separated pier base as long as there is enough clearance.

Would be cautious if there is any trees nearby (with big roots) or your soil is very rocky , as screwing ground anchors in is a lot less easy than the video shows, especially at that size of anchor.

I have experience of anchoring marquees and mobile stage systems and have seen the struggles it can create at times even when using power tool drivers for the larger diameter anchors.

only 1 surface rooting tree thats close (next door unfortunatly) and its a 17year old house estate so rocks and building detritus may be an issue but I think if I use the pilot drill first it may help.

I am sure its not going to be as easy as their video thats for sure

in the planning stage for my ROR has anyone used ground screws for the floor supports? like these https://www.groundscrewcentre.co.uk/

looks a lot easier than mixing the concrete etc for the base.

this will then give me a raised surround around the centre concrete block for the mount

one of the reasons is my garden is only accesable through the garage and reducing the amount of mix to shift  all the way to the back would help a great deal.

base will be 8ft wide and 10ft long ish

i recently purchased one of these https://www.altairastro.com/starwave-80-ed-triplet-apo-travel-refractor-465-p.asp as a grab and go 

although i have not tried it for imaging yet I am very pleased with its visual performance

1 hour ago, fifeskies said:

With a 4x powermate you are pushing the limits of seeing with that scope and eyepieces.

Even with the 17.5mm , powermate gives an effective 4.4mm eyepiece 

This is around x100 for a 470mm scope which with the planets so low down is a high magnification in the conditions

The others give about 2.25mm equivalent so about x200

And 1.1mm or near x 450

 

Just too high magnification in low wobbly air so will look smudged/out of focus.

In cold clear air with the planets high ( in a few winters time) you may be fine at x250.

 

Powermate x4 is more commonly used for video capture of the planets where best frame stacking can generate a good final image. 

Thanks 

I was comparing the 4.5 morph with the 17.5 and the 4x together. The 4.5 morph smashes it on its own where as the 17.5 with the 4x was poop

All makes sense tho extra glass is going to make things tough

Hi guys

Currently on my hols in sunny Wales

Managed to bring my ed80 triplet and have some amazing views of Jupiter and Saturn. First time I have ever seen the bands in Jupiter so very pleased

I am using my 17.5 , 9 and 4.5 mm Morpheous eye pieces which look amazing but I wanted to try my televue power mate 4 x but try as I may I cannot get it to focus its close but no where near as good as the morpheous on their own.

Any tips to setting these up?