tooth_dr

17 minutes ago, Spaced Out said:

Right I’ve fumbled about with the primary and moved it down the tube to the point where it fell off one of the screws ! I managed to get this screw back in and tighten it up a little, so the mirror is now as far forward as I can safely get it, still I have the split spikes on the left side of the image !

At this point I’ve decided to take the nuclear option and strip the scope down. I will lop off a section of the focuser tube (i’ve marked on the tube where the focus point is for the DSLR & MPCC) and centre the focuser. While I am at it I shall clean the mirrors, flock the scope and get the blackboard paint out too.

Once rebuilt and collimated if I still have this issue I may just chuck it in the bin !

Any advice on this little project ? I’ve just watched the astronomyshed YT vid on mods which has explained the dismantle/re-assemble process quite well, it’s spurred me on a bit.

With regard to chopping the focusser tube, I’m only going to use this scope for imaging so I am happy to try it, how much should I be lopping off ? Is it still OK to have a bit protruding into the scope at the point of focus ?

Frustrating Gary, but I think it'll work out ok for you.  I dont think it's too bad though and certainly good enough to master your imaging/processing on this scope.

Are there screw-on domes that can be purchased, with a rubber O-ring to prevent ingress of water?

I thought Id post a quick review for Bernard at Modern Astronomy.  I first started buying off Bernard 10 years ago almost to the day.

I recently purchased a couple of small items from Modern Astronomy.  There was a delay in delivery of one item via Royal Mail, and I was on the phone to a very busy Bernard who assured me that it would turn up.  Email communication was exemplary, and the article arrived a week after expected delivery date.

Highly recommended, and it's nice to see businesses keeping the same customers for extended periods of time.

Thanks for reading.

2 minutes ago, spillage said:

@Adam J

Thanks for the info. I have just seen your reply to my other post as I was not sure where the problem was with my images. I did not process this until last night (images gathered on Wednesday) when I realized I only had flats for the 150 and did not have time to get any 130 flats I just used what I had. 

I did think that as long as nothing is moved or changed in the image train then you can reuse flats.

If I get time this evening I will re-do my collimation and run off some flats.

 

Cheers

Spill.

If you even rotate your camera slightly on the same scope you’ll need to retake your flats.  

Images taken through a guidescope with the main imaging scope doing the guiding.  That would allow me for example to image with the ST80?  May be include images taken with the guidecam or the main imaging camera swopped over.

My nice new to me Skyris 618C arrived and getting a run on the moon tonight. Cheers @CosmicOrangutan

6 hours ago, Highburymark said:

Hi Floater, it's actually the newt (NT) focuser you want - not the frac one. Baader # 2957030 -  2" NT Steeltrack Crayford, bf 30mm. £149 at 365astronomy. All you do is remove the newt adapter plate it comes with (with a hex screw) and the focuser fits the LS60 perfectly. If you look back at alanjgreen's posts on page 3 of this thread there's a bit more information. It's a terrific upgrade for binoviewing - so much more robust than the stock focuser - and the light path reduction is a bonus.

Fascinating result using a focuser off a Newt!

I'm glad I'm not the only one who felt it was a bit poorly thought out. It does just fall off the L bracket! Good job there. 

1 minute ago, Highburymark said:

 

As expected WO binos were just shy of reaching focus in the Lunt 60 with the 1.6x Barlow unit. Can't find any UK outlet selling the 2x unit - whether it be a WO or Skywatcher. All part of the fun with a new solar scope - buying the scope is the easy part.

I got the last set from one supplier at the start of the summer there, bit crap you cant get something!

@Highburymark there is a little inward travel left as you can maybe see in the photo but not enough for a 1.6 barlow I guess!

1 hour ago, Highburymark said:

Ok - interesting Floater - I have WO binoviewer too. Only have the WO 20mm and TV plossl 15mm pairs. From reading the forums was expecting the WO to reach focus with the LS60. If it's not possible then one option is to sell the WOs and buy a Baader Maxbright pair (with a Steeltrack focuser) which should be better. But need to do a bit more research. Will report back when I make progress.

Congratulations on your purchase. I've had good success with mine using a skywatcher binoviewer, with the included 2x Barlow lens, and a pair of 26mm Meade plossls.  This gives a nice full disc view.  Ignore the different versions of the 26mm. Even though it worked ok I now have a matching set!

14 minutes ago, Adam J said:

You wont be disappointed with the results if you do, I have cooled one before now and it was a massive step in performance. 

I've been searching the forum a lot and reading up on it. Have you a guide that you'd recommend?

I'm tempted to cool my 1000d....

Did a bit of imaging the other night, widefield and then closeup of same target.

Problems - not enough dew straps! Increasing the exposure time on the guidescope camera bought be more time it alas it succumb to dew around midnight (planning on packing up anyway )

Spotted these on Amazon US for £24 so decided worth a punt. With Next day Amazon Prime delivery to the holiday villa, they arrived today. Can't say I've had much time to use them as the postman arrived as we were heading out, but a fleeting glance clearly showed a sunspot in the middle of the sun. Should be really handy for quick views of the sun, and a lot safer than home made filters when I let the kids use them. 

1 minute ago, Lockie said:

You'd be better off if the SA then, as it's equatorial and won't have the field rotation present in long exposures. 

The new AZ-gti looks really good apart from a couple of reports concerning twist in the tripod head, but it strikes me more of a grab and go mount for visual and short exposure imaging rather then a Deep Sky AP mount

That sounds like a fair appraisal. 

LX = long exposure.  I'd want to be taking long exposure widefield photos as much as solar imaging, and I won't really need goto as much as I don't want field rotation either! I've been on the fence about buying an SA, but the more I think about it, it's probably closest to ideal. 

5 minutes ago, happy-kat said:

As I think you don't rely on long exposure for solar images is an equatorial needed?

I don't think it is, but the ability to use it for LX is a deal breaker me.

If I was looking a portable mount to track the sun and for LX DSLR/lens images, I guess you'd be hard pushed to look past the SA, as opposed to the AZGTI

For astro imaging I'm guessing the star adventurer is a better option, would there be any advantages of this AZ mount over the SA?

58 minutes ago, John said:

It's a shortish 10 lbs OTA so it should be OK.

More the price of it!

I was about to buy an AZ5 and then this pops up 

5 hours ago, John said:

When I test the AZ5, I'll be trying 3 scopes on it:

Skywatcher ED120 F/7.5

Takahashi FC 100 F/9

Vixen 102 F/6.5

When I had an AZ-4 I found the ED120 just a little too much for that mount even when it was on a 2" steel tubed tripod.

It will be interesting to see how the AZ5 fares. FLO are also sending me the Pronto version to compare with the AZ5 as well.

Thanks FLO

This guy is also going to try his televue np101 on it for the eclipse  hope it doesn't fall off 

Thanks, a friend just sent me a photo of the AZ5 that arrived with him yesterday.  He has an ED120 mounted on it comfortably.  I think I've made my mind up.

Can I  just confirm here that this AZ5 will fit onto a normal tripod, via the screw used for the head?  I'm not sure what size it is, but I guess 3/8.