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tooth_dr

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Posts posted by tooth_dr

  1. 5 hours ago, Davey-T said:

    Excellent first image Adam and creative thinking, well done.

    Dave

     

    Thanks Dave.  It's also a bit larger than a 1.25" filter so less vignetting too.

     

    4 hours ago, Craney said:

    Great start Adam.      Lovely cloud detail in the mid-frame.    I do miss the 'wide-field' of my Canon, but then again the Moon would have put the Hoodoo of any attempts over the last few nights.   What scope / lens did you use ?

    For me, getting those   'ripple' shock wave  structures inside the crescent was the big Wow!!  moment on first light with my mono.   I would usually have to wait for 2-3 hours of DSLR imaging (under excellent conditions) before  they showed up. The ATIK brought them out in minutes.

    At the moment I am going around the popular classics, a few frames of each filter, and enjoying the compositional side of putting the frames together.   It is quite exciting to see the final image emerge from the mono.

    Are you using any type of plate-solving to get future frames aligned ??    (it is something I will have to comtem "plate"   :) ).   I feel I will have to raise my level of computerisation to take full advantage of the 'mono' mind set.

    Looking forward to the next step..... (sans blu-tack).

    oooooooh!!..... and we have more clear nights coming up.  As exciting as a penalty shoot-out.

     

     

    I used an ED80 with a FF 0.85, so about 520mm focal length and F6.3ish.  I dont think this camera is anywhere near as sensitive as yours at all.  I couldnt really see much in the 5 minute subs, but it was there when stretched and stacked.  I've attached my previous attempt at this object a few years ago with a DSLR and a 250px.

    .NGC6888-monochrome.jpg.81d59b95cfaf3d334c7900ab38594464.jpg

    I used APT and plate solving to align with previous nights.  I typically save the position I used on the first night, which may be deviated from the standard goto position to improve the framing, and then request that saved position on subsequent nights. I label them as AJ IMAGES, so that I can easily find the targets I've imaged in the past, and can easily revisit them at any time.  I wouldnt consider not using it now, it is a game changer.  No three star alignements etc.  I just take a image with it in home position, then plate solve and sync the mount to this.  Next I choose any target and within a few minutes it's perfectly centred, just as the camera is cooling down.

    4 hours ago, swag72 said:

    Looking good - This sensor is considered old in the tooth and has it's doubters if you read the internet, but I love it and think that there is plenty of mileage left in it yet ....... I'm sure you'll love this camera!!! :) 

    Thanks Sara, if I'm honest your review/info/comparisons on this sensor swayed me in buying this over a new ASI1600MM.  So far so good!

    • Like 1
  2. So here it is! @Craney

    After a very smooth transaction and plenty of 'after-sales' advice from @Jkulin (cheers John), I started acquiring darks and bia, then finally got first light this week.

     

    Firstly my spacers havent arrived yet, so ignore the star shapes.

    Secondly I dont have any filters per se but I did manage to Blu-Tac a 12nm H-alpha EOS clip filter to the inside of the M48-T2 adapter.

     

    Details of image:

    6 hours of data in 300s subs at -15oC, taken over two nights 2nd/3rd/4th July; darks, flats and bias used for calibration; stacked in DSS, processed in PS using some NC actions.

     

    Pointers and comments welcome.  Early doors yet but a promising start.

     

     

    Best wishes

    Adam

     

     

     

     

     

    IMG_1736.jpg

    NGC6888_mono.jpg

    • Like 13
  3. 23 hours ago, alacant said:

    Restoration project: sw 254 f4.7 dated 1999. Just look at it and it went out of alignment. Awful focuser (but not as awful as the dual speed Crayford!), awful tube, seized spider, tiny secondary, non springy springs, flexy dovetail... Loadsa frustration but all now tweaked and/or replaced

    Major breakthrough with the collimation was the rigid box section along the top of the rings. It now holds at all angles. It's even lost that Skywatcher tinniness when you tap the tube. Reasonably sized galaxies at last:)

    IMG_20180506_185607.thumb.jpg.4b91363a030977e4fea3c02ccc0e51ac.jpgIMG_20180506_185748.thumb.jpg.7fd4ee4ecfe0437ff6e0bb82803dc341.jpgIMG_20180506_185820.thumb.jpg.79a22c04ffd48d433baf32caa988d759.jpg

     

    What happened your scope?!

  4. On 04/04/2018 at 17:10, angryowl said:

    A bit late to the party but I too have been interested for quite a while in debayering DSLR sensors.

    I had a go at a Canon 350D sensor first which ended up in a complete disaster but that was a few quid off Ebay so didn't really break the bank.

    Mt second attempt was with a Canon 20D sensor and was completely successful! Went scraping carefully with a toothpick and got all of the CFA and lenses off and somehow managed not to touch or damage any of the small wires at the edges of the sensor. Glued the glass piece back on with epoxy and all looked well.

    Tried it back on the camera and of course there were some scratches and other debris left on the sensor but those can de easily removed via a flat frame.

    https://imgur.com/a/C4hMw

    Third image is a pure flat showing the scratches and imperfections
    Fourth image is a light sub exposure in which the scratches are still visible with no flats applied
    Fifth image is a proper integrated and calibrated image made up of 21 lights and 13 flats. As can be seen after calibration and integration all of the scratches and imperfections have been completely removed leaving a great looking monochrome image. These were processed in Pixinsight

    Read somewhere that the 20D has an estimated 30% QE which isn't too bad, but I sort of abandoned the project and I've had the sensor for about a year and now deciding whether or not to buy a cheap 20D off Ebay, replace the sensor and actually make some use of it. Only problem is the dimensions of the 20D are huge and considering my RASA scope, the camera body would take up quite a bit of space. Then of course there's the noise in the sensor, meaning another DIY TEC cooling project for which I don't have the time for.

    I just bought a 20d off ebay last night, whilst lying in bed last night quite late on!  Once it arrives I'll try it out with the sensor you gave me :) CHEERS!!

    • Like 1
  5. 8 minutes ago, R26 oldtimer said:

    I am not an imager but how about a real challenge? Cooperation beats the Hubble! Hundreds of SGL members shoot a couple of hours of data of M16 each, resulting to thousands of hours of data  stacked all together to combine one Image, where all SGL Members can have a go at processing.

    Would that beat the hubble's pillars of creation?

    Brilliant idea, sure to make the Guinness book too. 

    • Like 1
  6. 10 minutes ago, newbie alert said:

    Strange as it sounds there's plenty of people that polar align the mount then load the scope/camera etc and think it doesn't move...

    It might move a bit but then you can fine tune it! That’s the point being raised here. 

     

    Honestly I think it’s mad sending the mount back for two bolts (or even just the one that’s needed) that could easily be sourced and posted out by the supplier/retailer. 

    • Like 1
  7. 38 minutes ago, derekf said:

    No I'm a buyer that expects the things i buy to work as they should.

     

    4 minutes ago, MarsG76 said:

    As you should get what you paid for... I'm sure you're protected by consumer law... obviously the bolts are not functioning as intended.

    I’m just saying I wouldn’t dream of tightening up that bolt without taking some of the weight of the CW bar to allow the bolt to turn without any undue pressure.  Common sense would say don’t try to move that sort of weight with a bolt in a cast aluminium housing. We all have different view points on what we expect of things, based on how much we paid etc etc.  I can understand your disappointment though don’t get me wrong, why can’t the supplier just send you a new bolt and that’s it sorted?

    • Like 2
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