tooth_dr

I've been following this thread a lot myself.  I dont think that looks too bad for a FF camera.

I was expecting the circular view that was on the website but instead I’m getting cut off portion top and bottom.  It has the 2.5mm lens. Is this normal?

Thanks!

1 hour ago, Phil Fargaze said:

I updated from a 120N+ to the 910 and the increase in sensitivity was pronounced. I was previously limited to mag 12 stars for occultation work but with the 910 in good conditions I can work with mag 14 stars now. 

I’m not that familiar with occultation imaging but I’ve heard a bit about it, that’s a big improvement.

Im getting meteors down to +4/4.5 magnitude with my 902/8mm F0.8 lens, and the 910 gets you down to two magnitudes fainter again!

30 minutes ago, Phil Fargaze said:

The camera I use for my occultation observations is a Watec 910HX/RC  (mono) which provides an analogue output.  However I digitize the signal via a USB video adaptor to record onto laptop. Simple to use, great for live viewing and still good for obtaining useful scientific data. 

Those are pretty stunning analogue cameras! I’m using 902H2 and still useful for meteor detection. I’m hoping to get a 910 someday. 

Bresser replied - new blue being shipped tomorrow.  Impressive service

Thanks Alan. It’s strange alright. My solar scope is never stored outside, it lives in my living room apart from when it’s being used. And it really doesn’t get used too much!

I took photos of mine this morning, is it worth contacting Lunt?

25 minutes ago, bilbo said:

 

At the moment I'm just trying to gauge if and when there was a change in these filters and if it points to a more concerning issue.  I'll probably have to ask the question again with greater clarity. My next post will explain why

Steve

Steve this all sounds ominous. Can you please clarify if there is a concern over safety. 

7 hours ago, symmetal said:

I got a reply from Bresser, Germany that they have put a blue glass filter in the post today.  The filter looks green if you shine a light off it at an angle but is pale blue when you remove it. The blotches around the edge indicate the blue glass filter needs replacing as it will get worse.

In my post on Saturday I included a picture of the rear of the rear of the red output lens which also seemed to have a cloudy film on it. With the blue glass removed waiting for the replacement it's much more obvious.

Danenn posted earlier on this thread of a similar problem so following his lead I removed the orange plate which has the diagonal mirror loosely fixed to it by some foam padding. I originally thought there was a prism inside but it's just a mirror. You can easily see and get to the rear of the output filter then and it was covered in a cloudy film. I gently wiped it in a cotton bud sprayed with Baader Wonder Fluid and puffed a rocket blower over it  and the film has gone. Whoop! A clear golden surface appeared.  The mirror itself looked ok with no film present, just a few specks of dust which the blower removed. I also thought before, the inside of the diagonal had a white powdery coating on the surface but it is just the metal showing through where the black spray coating hasn't covered it. It does look just like over-spray from the outside coating and isn't intended to be fully covered.

Hopefully when the replacement blue glass filter arrives I will get a good improvement in the view.

Alan

Thanks so much Alan. This sounds like mine and ours appear to be produced consecutively 

On 18/05/2019 at 16:09, symmetal said:

Hi Steve, my B1200 is green. S/N 0001005

Alan

Interesting Alan that my scope is 0001004 and reflects white (although the filter looks green)

White

B1200

I had another look at mine as ive noticed 5 blotches around the periphery of the green lens. It’s minor but I’m guessing it worsens?

When I shine a light inside the b1200 filter through the geeen lens the back of the red lens looks cloudy. Is this normal?

Very nice Martin ??

That’s s great view Gina. The blue streak ?meteor?

3 hours ago, matt_baker said:

If I setup my mount through Stellarium and have APT alongside, does this mean I won't have to have EQMod for the alignment?

I can just slew to a random bright star and plate solve it to the center, then sync, focus and slew to my intended target and do another plate solve to get it centered

Is this correct?

Since I switched to EQMOD and APT, I haven't done an alignment.  I connect to EQMOD and APT as usual, open PointCraft, click on SCOPE POSITION.   I then just select my target within APT (I've added a long list of custom targets as a downloaded file from another forum), and it moves to that target.  It often isn't right on target, so once it's solved that image, it moves again and then solves a second image.  After the 2nd or 3rd go the target is in the centre by <10 pixels.  And if your target isn't in APT, just enter the RA and DEC and that's it.  I do run CdC via EQMOD at the same time, but I use that for info and targeting and seeing what is nearby etc. 

The postman brought me a belt kit for my EQ6. That’s my evening sorted. 

8 hours ago, SteveNickolls said:

With shorter FL lenses such as 135 mm I’ve been quite able to obtain exposures of 15 minutes

That's pretty darn impressive, 900s exposures.

3 minutes ago, bokchoy ninja said:

Thanks for the replies and for the advice!

The Nikkor 180mm f2.8 ED AIS weights 800 grams. The salesman at KEH says if the lens doesn't have an included mounting point, then the camera can handle its weight. I ordered it and will report back as to how angry my camera feels at the offense.

Also interesting that you say the 5kg capacity of the SA doesn't include the counterweight. But either way, my longest lens will likely be the 180mm so there will be margin for an autoguider. Going out this upcoming weekend to get some widefield shots with a 14mm and break in the SA. Wish me luck!

I’ve just started imaging on a SA with a Nikkor 180mm. The total weight of my camera and lens and dovetail and remote trigger is 4 1/4 pounds ? (1.92kg)

The lens seems to present no trouble without a bracket holder. I took this last week - 16 x 120s ISO400 F2.8

41 minutes ago, bokchoy ninja said:

Hmm... I really don't want to have to jerry-rig a 2lb lens onto a makeshift lens mount. Can anyone recommend a lightweight, large-ish aperture lens that would be suitable for DSO imaging and would be light enough to hang unsupported on the camera?

I suppose I could go with a 70-200mm with a tripod mount already attached, but those run at around 4 lb, and I imagine I'd be getting very close to the weight limit of the Star Adventurer at that point. (2lb camera + 4lb lens + 3lb counterweight) --> doesn't seem to leave room for an autoguider.

Hi there!

As a uk site, not many of us (still) work in pounds.

2.72kg would not really trouble the SA, as it can comfortably cope with that. The literature states up to 5kg. You don’t count the weight of the CW in this. So there is room to add a lightweight auto guider too.

3 minutes ago, Vixen4eva said:

Re procesed image of the Flaming Star. Just under 30 mins exp at iso 400 @ f 2.8.

Regards

Alan

That’s really nice! How much cropping was there Alan? 

26 minutes ago, Davey-T said:

Must get one of those, my wired one has a habit of disconnecting from the Canon adapter join.

Guess you're filled with anticipation and can't wait to get your teeth into a test, hope it's not false hope (I'll stop now) 

Dave

Don’t worry I’m a patient man 

18 minutes ago, steveex2003 said:

Absolutely no offence intended. My photographics skills are even poorer than my observational. My one and only attempt thus far (with an optimistically cobbled together load of junk) was just a trail mess. To the untrained eye, it is not remotely discernible as a night sky shot ? 

None taken, I am definitely hangry just ?

1 minute ago, steveex2003 said:

Forgive my ignorance, I very much have my L plates on in this community/company. Is trail run a Freudian slip? 

Trail run is a spelling error, it should have read trial run.  Not sure what you are implying?

Just now, Alien 13 said:

Looks good not seen that model before so had a peek online and it was nice to see it uses standard AAA bats, I have something similar with the giga t pro but it eats the expensive CR2 batteries so does not get used much. I do agree with keeping leads down to a minimum on portable mounts.

Alan

Thanks Alan.  I found four rechargable AAAs in the house, so hopefully they will do the business.  The lead can also be removed from the wireless bit and plugged directly into the main handset so it can be used as a tethered option too.  Partially clear skies forecast tonight, so fingers crossed for at least a bit of a trail run.

This remote arrived this morning. Hoping to use this camera on my SA mount with as few leads as possible.

Irish Astronomical Association