happy-kat

If you are looking at videos from a DSLR then video crop mode is useful, the canon 550d has video crop mode. Planetary cameras like the starting ASI120 are designed for planetary/Moon, check out the resource http://astronomy.tools/ and the imaging tab and select a target, camera, lens and see the effect on target size.

As you are in bortle 8 I'd look at narrow band imaging even if you consider something like a CLS filter to start with and you can now use a 3d printed adaptor to use a 1.25 filter in a canon camera.

Zoom lenses are less preferable than prime. There's a whole thread just on imaging with the samyung 135mm lens.

If using free stacking software then you may find you have to convert the fuji raw frames to DNG before you can use them for stacking. 

Depending on how much distance/stairs to your setup location something that keeps it small might suit your circumstances, staradventurer, there's a thread just on that mount too.

Have fun researching.

When you have built your DSS list the 120 you don't want in DSS when you select the file in your list you can delete it from the list and also choose to delete the source in the file drive folder

I use a red dot finder with a flash hot shoe adaptor on the DSLR. Out the box depending on your T ring thickness you may need a spacer to make the 55mm distance required with the flattener you got, I made mine from some plastic I found in the recycling stash.

Where possible it's best to choose a star where a third intersects to focus on, this spreads sharpness across the frame better.

I would open both images in your image editor and paste the foreground single image aa a new layer into the stacked image, then create a layer mask on the foreground as a black layer mask then use an eraser to reveal the foreground trees border.

It won't be brilliant as your single shots are still blurred

welcome, there's lots to see in here, enjoy

if you have static foreground then Sequator will stack and let you mark out the foreground area to preserve.

I don't know if the new eosr are supported but with the canon 1100d I use I connect to my android phone and use app DSLR Controller to control and focus the camera

F4.9 it was a small refractor telescope I'll have to check tomorrow on iso I did reduce to 100 or 200 but I'll check

As an example I took some a couple days ago17/10  50mm 246mm fl and f4.9 (fixed) and the shutter on the DSLR was 1/500

Perhaps your lens has a sweet spot for sharpness at f8 for working with 

You did well capturing the Moon at 1/8. It's good to experiment. Faster repeated exposures give greater chance of capturing during moments of less atmospheric disturbance. If possible video is good to use to be able to capture lots more frames as software like Registax stacks the best frames. 

What was your exposure on the Moon with your f22?

I took some single shots with the Moon last week and have stacked them using Registax (planetry stacker) which also has super wavelet sharpening functions.

Caught two on the 22nd with a full Moon.

Being treated again with lovely data, thank you.

This is a first pass to see what the image was, I hope to reprocess at a less aggressive bin % and update this image but I wanted to share what I had done.

StarTools 1.8.515a compose | crop | bin 50% | wipe | aautodev | HDR | colour [SHO 40SII+60Ha,70Ha+30OIII,100OIII] | shrink | denoise

I would look for a prime none zoom lens sand old m42 lenses with an adaptor will fit the 1000d. Around £30 should sort that out. There's lots of pushing you can do with the mount you already own but you'll get more of you can mount your camera straight to the mount. The no eq dso challenge thread has lots of posts.

StarTools protects against clipping data but does use the full dynamic range available and I find often pushes the peak left, but it wont have clipped the data. Though for personal taste in Filmdev I lift skyglow (leave the stretch as is)

The FF I'm using needs 55mm so the spacers are making the distance up from T ring and DSLR as I'm a little over 1mm too close without them, I'm using the Starizona FFv2.

That's a nice easy start vid for people to follow.

I think as the register process has not yet been run and stack is ticked there that's why the stacking summary page doesn't  know total exposure time.

I I'm going to try it next time with just one of my 0.5mm spacers next time to compare the corner stars to see if I can get perfect.

Edit: wrong way, I'll test using

.5 and a .7

3x.5

2x.5 and a .7

4x.5

I had forgotten I had made this earlier thread, so this is the link to using the 50ED with my FF

https://stargazerslounge.com/topic/384531-50ed-preparation/?do=findComment&comment=4155926

Last night it was clear for a few hours and as I wanted to test that the flattener was working it did not matter the Moon was pretty full and in the best bit of sky. I used the virtuoso v1 mount with a LiFEp04 tank and a canon 1100d DSLR with the EVOFF-v2 and two of the 0.5mm plastic spacers I had made plus a flocked flowerpot on the 50ED as I contend with 5 street lights, one on my left shoulder North 15 feet away and one to the South 30 feet away so I am somewhere between the two bang on the bright Moon. I used Jupiter to focus on (my quickly made Y mask did not help so will have to make that again as the V was wrongly placed as a prior made one had worked) but getting focus on Jupiter's moons was good enough for testing.

This was taken a few years ago but shows the natural star issues using a DSLR and no FF with the 50ED, 4 second exposure with tracking.

The mount did not play ball yesterday and for this test I wanted to rule out field rotation anyway so took 0.5 second exposures, this is an image made of layering the 9 espousers together. Looking at the corners the stars are pretty good and though the right side is not as good as the left a bit of sigm clipping on stacking would probably sort that out.

As the Moon was there I did a series of images to place the Moon in the middle then corners and then layered each over the centred Moon to expose any drift using the two bright features in the middle (though these were biased to the top half but nothing else was strong enough to use for reference) of the Moon to best manually visually align.

Top right blue corner over middle

Top left green corner over middle

Bottom left red corner over middle

Bottom right yellow corner over middle

All corners over middle

Whilst the Moon images do show slight stretching the individual star images are what count and I am very happy with the flatness the flattener achieves on the 50ED star field and certainly looking at images in Astrobin with a flattener either this one or Skywatcher great results are achieved. 

That's a cracking project, good stuff.

That looks like an alternative, I wanted to use what I had already though I wasn't happy how I had been mounting the 50ED as didn't find it rock solid (I was using the supplied foot in a tiny finder shoe) but the rings were fine hence the solution I went for. I'll have to count the turns on the mounting ring screws to ensure the 50ED is parallel to the bar but given my imaging limitations perfect alignment is the least of my challenges.

Hi

You might find this episode of StarGaZine useful to watch, for processing if you have nothing already then GIMP will give you an immediate capable solution and will do a lot of functionality for processing the output.

https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=qjVG_FE0NG4

Just looking using my phone on the jpg your stars are tight so I would stack away.