happy-kat

you can change the wifi channel it uses from the default

Nice find, looks like a you have Williams optics logo. I would try with what you already have, you can search astrobin to see images where that camera has been used.

Could have a start with reading every photon counts. 

Would the setup be used at home or is portability a requirement too or storage distance to setup location.  

What astro equipment do you already have?

I think there's a thread on it with some spec info perhaps at the end

https://stargazerslounge.com/topic/401892-another-new-asiair

The camera will need a lens to see without a lens the image would show whether it was light or dark depending which way you had pointed the camera and nearby light sources. If you bought new there might be an allsky lens in the box. With a lens (which could be the allsky lens or a telescope) then the camera could see. From memory you'll need to install the zwo driver first then zwo software or sharpcap to be able to see the image the camera sees. There is no switch when the usb is plugged in the camera is ready to be used by software like sharpcap

love the first Jupiter colours and sharpness are great remains a gaseous object for me. CA effects focus on blue channel, in registax there's a colour align option in there, somewhere.

Welcome

Nice, did you get any planets in the mix too?

Welcome, learning the constellations will help a lot and their main stars and can be naked eye. 

What mount are you currently using?

I use a heritage 130p, known as the onesky in the US. Using a 6mm eyepiece I had bought I observed a moon shadow transit on Jupiter, super experience.

There are a lot of users of the onesky. That and the heritage 130p use the 130mm f5 parabolic mirror on a dobsonian mount but the OTA has a long dove tail bar so the OTA can be used on other mounts.

Gosh the weight you mention that was surprising

3rd party photoshop plugins some can work in GIMP, could see if that noise exterminatorx plugin also gets used in GIMP as an idea

If it is the heritage 150p telescope then if it's like my heritage 130p then it's about 1 inch the trusses need to be lowered for a camera to reach focus 

Instead of stelarium on my android phone I use skysafari and virtuoso mount for the last two versions of synscan I've found the connection drops after a while in skysafari. When this happens I go back to synscan and reconnect, turn on encoders, then back to skysafari and connect all is fine again.

If you want to use freedom find which is useful when sharing a telescope as the mount won't lose where it is pointing if knocked you have to turn on encoders in synscan app.

Lucky bean 🙂 looked promising here then clouded over

That mount will be very helpful with the goto and tracking. Although the mount is AZ you can image but within the capabilities AZ gives as it tracks in tiny left right up down movements and not equatorial so the exposure lengths can't be too long, though this will very depending where you are pointing in the sky East and West in northern hemisphere between 20-50 odd is good. 

If you are sharing have you looked at live stacking? This builds an image live from what the camera is looking at. What I don't know is if you can use live stacking with a canon camera. Possible things to research here is ascom, sharpcap and astap. The first for the camera driver the latter two live stacking options.

**But** lastly I've just remembered the star discovery 150P telescope does not have enough inward focus travel to reach infinity focus with a mirrored DSLR. It may if a barlow is also used but you will have to search here and see what other people with the same setup have or have not managed.

@paulyz you might find this interesting on canon cameras

https://www.astropix.com/html/equipment/canon_one_to_one_pixel_resolution.html

Perhaps look at example images to see whether for you a planetary camera or DSLR would work better out of what you are looking at. ZWO cameras with usb3 connector have the potential to connect to mobile devices using the ZWO asicap application for capturing (plus OTG cable) if you don't have a laptop or pc to connect to.

Is your prime lens one of Nikon's ED glass lenses and what f stop can you use your lens at for imaging?

Flat same iso as lights (and focus) but flat light source

Dark flat same as flat but with lens cap

Have an experiment with your camera you might find dark flats add noise. 

I to use the rough /500 divide as I don't use full frame though the direction the target is does have quite an influence on star trails. If you stack using intersection that deals with a fair bit of field rotation. With canon cameras some users are finding darks add more noise, I don't take darks but I like flat darks as well as flats (same as flats just add lens cap).

The lens is still 250mm crop/smaller sensor has a smaller field of view it does not alter actual magnification.

Pointing at targets to the East and West with altitudes between roughly 20-50 degrees minimises how fast star trails appear.

Best of recovery for your knee and clear skies to enjoy

Does the same happen if process the video in astrostakkert, can still use RS6 to sharpen afterwards