happy-kat

For my small lenses and 50ED I make a simple Y mask from stiff card, it does the job. Compass, scissors, ruler and card and found a guide on the degree to use for the Y

For the OP Sequator is great as it allows you to define the boundary of the static foreground and stack the moving sky

You can get a red dot finder to mount in a camera flash hot shoe to help with pointing

Hi

Those aren't cameras I'm familiar with. Planetary images are possible with a static mount though it's easier if for example the Moon is fully within the telescope/camera field of view. For planetary a high frame rate is good.

If the IMX225 is the newer version of the IMX224 used in the ASI224MC then there are lots of users and reviews of that camera

Two star trackers as examples skywatcher staradventurer (needs batteries) then another example omegon mount mini track (no batteries). I've haven't personally used either and there are other makes.

Things to consider might be how long/heavy a lens or small telescope might be to ensure what you are wanting to use is within the weight capability of any mount being looked at.

If you enjoy DIY could look at making a barn door tracker for use with shorter focal length lens, I used one with a 50mm lens.

Will you be looking for a very portable tracker, or is it for use mainly when at home?

Happy new year to you and thank you for the newsletter 

I hope it works great for you and the virtuoso is a nice tidy unit, I'll look out for your updates and also watch some more of that video above with the pi solution.

The only thing I can see to use a second laptop outside is if that's the only way to hoover the images from the camera. I'm going to be quiet now and not muddy the puddle.

If you have the wifi range on azgti leave the laptop inside

Synscan windows app

What about plate solve with astap and ascom to sync back to the mount using synscan and then asistudio to live stack all inside after plonking mount outside

ASIstudio has live stacking, I've not used a asair thingmy bob but I assume asostudo works with it and that has a Windows and Android version of the app so use everything as is just using live stacking 

Could even just try  in azgti altaz mode too 

Interesting minimal setup, not sure if how he was using it to comment whether the rig needed the encoder flavour of the mount or not. 

Some where I thought I'd read about canon DSLR and sharpcap via ascom driver. If you have the 60mm already why not give it a go, if it hangs together might need to think about a FF for the scope I guess. Good luck

Given your mentioned targets have you looked at the FOV calculator with the different telescopes and your camera would give.

The images you see that you like is the size of aperture and camera similar to what you are considering

Fascinating what they represent, nice size too, have you looked through the case with a magnifying glass

That's a nice find.

Could you add the bake bean can to get a sense of scale please?

The heritage 150p is 750 long, not sure how much clearance you have on an 4DE mount to accommodate a telescope that long.

I've used occasionally a DSLR in the heritage 130p helical focuser, some sagging might have occurred but it appears no worse for wear YMMV

Pleased to update that today with encoders on could switch back and forth between skysafari and synscan pro using goto and manual moving (undid clutches) by hands (not app) only once did the connection drop, I was continuously switching between manual, goto and both apps. This is great. Sunscan pro 2.1.1.1 on Android

If looking at that camera you might enjoy this owners thread

https://stargazerslounge.com/topic/397896-zwoplayer-one-imx-585-sensor-image-showcase/page/1

I've tested now and the panoramic app I had mentioned is only Bluetooth. The synscan app has a terrestrial feature where I could add a list of terrestrial targets but I didn't find a way to link then together and/or auto trigger the camera.

If your virtuoso still supports starting pressing button 5 into EQ mode then you don't want to change your firmware as my virtuoso v1 has a slightly more recent (still old) firmware but my mount does not support EQ mode starting.

With deep sky stacker on the cosmetic tab don't use remove hot pixels (can give strange star centres). Could use your highest scoring light as the reference frame.

Could consider making a mask to reduce the aperture of the telescope increasing the f ratio reducing the CA.

Could play with the exact point of focus being slightly past or behind where you had focused, can help with camera lens but YMMV.

Post processing perhaps there are some CA tools already in Photoshop. I use StarTools and there's a fringe killer in the though I first choose to leave offending stars in luminance (no colour).

To help suggest a trick or two to help minimise CA what software for stacking and processing are you using?

Hi

I'm assuming you have the original virtuoso mount, I wouldn't personally flash the firmware from a different mount as you mention using a handset where the current virtuoso comes with wifi capability. The original virtuoso can be used for panorama photos via the onboard buttons. The wifi v2 version perhaps might work with the Android Panorama app as it did with my v1 mount (used with a Bluetooth connector at the time I'll retest with the wifi dongle to see if it still does).

It's now got two vane windmill sails so I can keep the camera covered when not in use.