happy-kat

A DSLR does show field curvature when used without a field flattener, there is one FF that has enough back focus for using a DSLR (not full frame) with the evoguide

I don't know what DSLR you have but this might be an interesting read

For planets it's capturing videos with many frames and then using software to cherry pick the best frames with the atmosphere was still and stacking then.

https://www.astropix.com/html/equipment/canon_one_to_one_pixel_resolution.html

Registax

Astrostakkert

Fire DSO you can work with the limitations of altaz keeping exposures within the limits of field rotation showing and startrails but you'll still get usable data stick with trying first bright targets. There's a imaging with a none EQ mount

https://stargazerslounge.com/topic/228101-the-no-eq-dso-challenge

DSS deep sky stacker

SIRIL

and there's an EVVA section for imaging with short exposures.

https://stargazerslounge.com/forum/287-discussions-eeva-equipment/

I think though thay might be using astro cameras and say sharpcap

Have a go with what you have

Hi

Are you thinking out imaging with your 8SE? You could image the planets and Moon with your 8SE in altaz mode and even DSO are possible if working within the capabilities of the mount. 

45 minutes ago, Kon said:

I can look into it and let you know, but not sure how to achieve focus. 

I was thinking out loud about something I might look to try, for fun as it doesn't matter if cloudy and I have a lens adapter and agree focus might be tricky 🙂

47 minutes ago, Kon said:

Interesting. Do you mean with a DSLR or just the planetary camera to image flowers?

Just with the 462

Would be interesting to see if anything is picked up using the UV filter looking at the QE graph. Thinking about the possibilities of parring the camera with a lens and flower images.

I have a heritage 130p and observe under street lights and I did make a light shroud but I tended to not bother using it, though I did flock the secondary mirror shield, stray light was much more of a problem from hitting the eyepiece or my eyeball directly.  I've never got round to adding PTFE tape on the focuser, it might be plastic but it's not flimsy and I rarely bothered with adjusting collimation.

Hi

I think when you are trying to reach infinity focus with your DSLR you are running out of in focuser travel. Using the barlow would be expected to push the infinity focus up so you can reach focus before running out of in focuser travel.

In America the heritage 130p is the same basically as the OneSky, at astromomers without borders

Super images well done all

to start you could make a dew shield from a roll of cardboard

Could you do a stack with lights and if you have them flats too please. Darks with the dslr might be adding more noise.

There are binocular reviews on the website binocularsky dot com and a great monthly newsletter available by email covering what's current to observe using binoculars. Mine are 8*42 as the weight is lighter for me.

Maybe compare different astro cameras with your existing 500d. If your main interest is DSO what are you finding is limiting your astro images with your 500d? Are you currently also guiding your setup? 

If you find the very long onesky 130p thread you might find some ideas of how to observe with the tabletop style mount.

Depending on the eq tripod it is sometimes possible to configure the mount to work in altaz style which makes it left right up down movement.

Hi. Depending on your height I guess, I have used my heritage 130p with it on the hard dry ground and I'm on a garden chair but I could equally be sat on a camping stool. The heritage telescope also has a standard dovbar so can be removed from the mount and used on a standard telescope mount but you'll lose the goto. A dew shield can be made from a bit of hobby foam or camping mat for example.

Interesting read. The EvoFFv2 covers from memory 27mm camera chip and not the full width, I've only tried it out with a camera not thought to use with an eyepiece but I think my eyepieces are too long in the neck.

I'm interested in following this camera but I've edited my comment to clarify that I'd referenced a different camera with just an AR window. 

I have a very sensitive IR camera and if I don't block IR, focus is not as good. If I want IR then I change filter and block everything else.

Edit: to clarify this is my findings with a ZWO462MC

If also looking at a zwo asiair then they only work with zwo cameras I think

Depending on which camera some Canons using an app and OTG cable can be controlled from an Android mobile, I use DSLR Controller with the 1100d

Every night or even hour might be different seeing and atmospheric conditions, perhaps evaluate after several sessions. Why not try using prime focus.

Yes that's it, unless eyepieces are parfocal you often need to adjust focus when changing them.

With a reflector designed for visual observation when a camera DSLR is used instead of an eyepiece there is not always enough focus travel distance available for the DSLR to reach focus (often the DSLR chip in inset in the body 44mm for a mirrored Canon) , focus travel runs out of inward movement. Outward focus movement can always be accommodated for by extension tubes where needed. Backfocus becomes a critical distance when a comma corrector or field flattener is used as these with the imaging device have critical placement range.

The PDS reflectors are designed for being usable with a DSLR as well as an eyepiece and has a shorter tube (effectively moving the mirror higher when compared to the P of same length/aperture) (amongst other changes). If an eyepiece is used conversely an extension tube 2 inch long might be used in the focuser before the eyepiece to reach focus.

With a refractor when observing a diagonal is used, if instead a camera is used then the diagonal is often swapped for a 2 inch long extension tube then the camera in order to reach focus.

The telescope starquest linked to further up I gather has a tripod that can be used in either EQ or Altaz, with a motor drive can be added to for when in EQ configuration plus it's the many used parabolic f5 mirror. Keeping the tripod legs not fully extended can help with stability. Though if there's desire to use it to image what's seen then reaching focus with a DSLR might not be possible as too little inward focus travel.

The 102mm mak starquest looks interesting.