CraigT82

have a read through this... https://skyinspector.co.uk/mars-edge-artefact/

I think the answer lies somewhere here… https://www.telescope-optics.net/gaussian_approximation.htm But please don’t ask me to translate it to plain English as I don’t understand any of that myself!

This is because using low gain/longer exposures yields individual sub frames with a good SNR and little shot noise, which results in a stacked image with a low bit depth. When you try to use wavelets on that low bit depth image you get artefacts like that. Wavelet sharpening works best on 16 bit images and we get 16 bit images by stacking lots of 8 bit images that contain noise. The stacking software uses random noise in each individual sub to calculate the additional levels through averaging to create the 16 bit stacked image, but if the individual subs are very low noise then this isn’t done properly and the final image will remain a low bit depth.

I first came across the topic outlined in the video linked to in the OP in the book Universal by Brian Cox and Jeff Foreshaw. Was a bit of a ‘mind blown’ moment but made perfect sense.

What kit are you using? This is a frustrating aspect of planetary imaging and I’ve certainly struggled with it.

That pattern you’re seeing is due to the alignment points in AS3, try using smaller alignment boxes

Click image tab at the top, then mode, then select RGB (it will be currently set to grayscale)

Nice results, really nice considering you used a manual dob. If you know the focal length of the Barlow (sometimes published by the manufacturer) the barlow power can be calculated by: Power = (barlow FL + distance)/ barlow FL The distance is from the lens of the barlow to the camera sensor. If you don’t know the barlow focal length you can calculate it by measuring the distance from the lens to the top surface of the barlow and rearranging the formula above using the native power factor of the barlow. Knowing this you can then calculate how much extension you need to get to whatever power you want.

If your using compression ring adaptors with more then one screw, be consistent with how you tighten the screws up so that the accessory is always clamped (and thus shifted) in the same way. My focuser has a compression ring and three thumbscrews which is overkill. I removed two and just use the one so that whatever goes in the focuser is clamped the same way each time. My imaging train is nice and solid with even with just the one thumbscrew.

Not a bad result at all, well done. I often have trouble finding targets too especially the dimmer ones. One way is to whack up the gain and gamma to max and increase the exposure up to 0.5sec or something like that, you might then see a glow off to one side which you can then follow to the now very bright target. Another way is to just take out the barlow, find and centre the target then replace the barlow, doesn't always work this as the act of removing/replacing the barlow can shift the image.

Calling @Peter Drew

That’s your issue then. Using the 224mc in the 102mm frac gives you a FoV of only 0.4x0.3 degrees. Sharpcap PA routine needs larger FoV to see enough stars to work with, about 2 degrees is ideal but I’ve gotten away with about 1.5 degrees using a 9x50 finder scope with the camera in that.

Are you using the 224c with the 102mm frac for the sharpcap PA routine or using a guide scope? You need a short focal length to get enough stars in the field for sharpcap to work with

That looks good didn't realise they sold them. How are the fans mounted to the plate and how does the whole thing mount to the scope? Is there any vibration dampening? Do the fans pull air down the tube or pus air up the tube?

Yeah it’s usable at high powers with the legs retracted, especially used with wide field eyepieces so you don’t have to nudge it as often

Some excellent info here… https://skyinspector.co.uk/atm-dispersion-corrector-adc/ Long and short of it is it depends on your imaging FL. Bigger scopes/longer focal lengths will gain an advantage even at higher elevations. With a big scope and OSC cam 1 arc second of dispersion would be visible in the image and so you’d benefit from the ADC up to 55 degrees alt. Of course if you’re less fussy you may not care about 1 arc sec of dispersion and may be happy to just align the channels in post. OSC cameras also generally require an ADC at higher elevations (black line in chart) than you could get away with a mono camera.

PA would have to be really bad to produce streaks when pointing at Polaris, definitely check that!

The reported coordinates on the left suggest the mount is parked?

Here is my 130p on the cut down AZ3 tripod. It’s surprisingly sturdy with the legs retracted, but could only be used sitting. With the legs extended I can get away with standing observing but not for long periods as I have to stoop, it’s also more wobbly at the eyepiece with legs extended. I don’t really use high powers (I stick to under 110x) with this set up as I only really use it when travelling to darker skies, and so I tend to stick to the DSO objects I can’t see from home. Lunar and planets I can observe fine from home so I don’t bother looking at them when I’m away.

I’d go for the Heritage 150p personally, I have the 130p version and I love it. I also owned a 127 mak and compared planetary views with it and the 130p and there was nothing in it, the benefit of the mak was being able to used longer fl eyepieces for any given magnification. The 150p can also come off it’s base and be used on any other mount.

You could consider cutting down the legs of one of the skywatcher steel tripods, get it nice and short for travel on the motorbike and would be nice and sturdy for observing. I have a cut down AZ3 aluminium tripod that I use for holiday travel (fits into a carry on case) used with my AZ4 and Heritage 130p tube.

You might be alright with it, at least for low power viewing. Probably be a lot of image wobble when using higher powers. I’d measure from the base of the AZ5 to the eyepiece with the scope at 45deg, and add 36cm to that. Compare that overall height with how high you’re eye is when sat on your stool.

How would you put the scope on the tripod? Have you got a mount?

New camera: ASI485mc, bargain from FLOs clearance section. Will be used for lunar/planetary imaging but also for having a go with DSO lucky imaging and maybe a spot of EEVA when we move to a new area with darker skies soon.

Welcome back! 12” SCT would be a Meade? Which one you going for?