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madjohn

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About madjohn

  • Rank
    Star Forming

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  • Location
    loxwood, West Sussex
  1. I have just got back from an astrophotography trip to La Palma with my astrobuddies One of our group bough his new redcat with him and we were all very impressed with the fit and finish and completely flat FOV. In particular what we all loved was the helical focuser and lock ring - very slick and oozes quality. I'd love to upgrade from my WO Z61 to a red cat soon but I'd like to know if plans for a bigger version are in development? Somewhere 60 to 70mm in aperture, about f5 to f6 would be ideal
  2. Hi folks Managed to get some time to image the Sun on the 21st using my newly bought ZWO ASI120MM-S and my homemade 6" solarscope. This is a 8 pane mosaic consisting of the best 250 frames of each run of 1500. Captured at full resolution. Hope you like it.
  3. Interesting post Peter - If you've a picture of the setup I'd like to see that
  4. Thanks guys, the fine detail is always hard to capture.
  5. Now your just showing off! Seriously though, really good images. Well done!
  6. Caught this at lunchtime - one of the best looking detached proms I've seen for a while Single video run of 1500 frames - best 250 used Skyris 274 camera and homemade solarscope, 150mm Evolunt and Lunt pressure tuned etalon
  7. These images are fab, you should be proud of those!
  8. Hi all Just seen this thread and very interesting it is too! I own and use a Skyris 274 (as well as a DMK31 mono) for my solar work. You do need a fast computer to handle the huge data input during capture but the fastest possible speed I have ever managed was 20fps However I find that high frame rates is not the whole answer to getting a good image. Someone mentioned that correct exposure is better than frame rate and I agree, judging from my results. I'd also like to state that the 274m is an awesome Lunar camera! - I've taken my best Moon images using one. It has a large FOV because of the large chip so is ideally suited for Lunar/Solar surface shots. USB3 is welcome and I believe the Skyris range were among the first to go over to USB3. Yes the Skyris 274 is expensive but with the large chip, cooling fins and USB3 capability it is a great performer. Just my two pennies worth Madjohn
  9. Fantastic result! well worth a weeks work!
  10. A selection of images I captured in the sunny couple of hours we had in West Sussex on Sunday lunchtime. All captured using my little Solarmax 40 on my Astrotrac mount. First image using my Skyris 274 with 2.5x Powermate AND 1.6x barlow - single video, best 500 frames of 1200 Second was a mosaic using my DMK31 camera and 2.5x Powermate - 3 x best 450 frame panes. Third was a full solar disc mosaic using my DMK31 and 1.6x barlow. 6 x 500 frame panes for the proms - 8 x 250 frame panes for the surface. Conditions were fairly steady at the time
  11. A lovely set of solar images! great work!
  12. During the total eclipse you won't need any filters! thats the beauty of it You'll need a mylar filter over the front of your scope both before and after the eclipse (PLEASE don't remove until totality is upon you, a stray glimpse unprotected will blind you ) The Baader solar film is the cheapest way of doing this. Don't forget to have a look and take in what you are seeing if you are blessed with clear skies on the day - I've been lucky enough to witness totality 4 times out of 6 attempts and it's all too easy to miss a good look while feverously trying to capture an image - take it from someone who knows! I use the ADEP setting on my Canon camera which works pretty well with the rapidly changing light levels - it you really want to concentrate on photographing the eclipse just fire as many as you can at different settings (bracketing) using a remote shutter. Above all good luck!
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