-
Posts
15,408 -
Joined
-
Last visited
-
Days Won
78
Content Type
Profiles
Forums
Gallery
Events
Blogs
Posts posted by johninderby
-
-
-
I bought my AZ-EQ5 as I wanted something simple to set up for planetary observing. Simply using solar system align is good enough for observing the moon or Jupiter etc. without having to do a proper alignment.
For more serious observing then doing a proper align is needed but easy in ALT AZ mode. For AP then set up in EQ mode. It’s the flexability of the mount that I like the most. You can use it in the way you want to.
BTW please use white text in your post. Much easier to read than the colour you have used.
EDIT
Mine has no slop in the AZ axis in AZ mode. Fine for high power planetary use. It is however harder to reach the AZ clutch to tighten it up properly when setup in ALt Az mode which can lead to it not being properly tightened. Use both hands and no problem. I also have my suspicions that the older mounts seem may have been harder to tighten the clutch properly.
- 1
-
-
Springs And Things for very small springs cut to length. Have ordered off them and great service.
https://springsandthings.me.uk/product-category/compression_springs/
- 1
-
I have metal 0.4 nozzles on mine and have no problems with clogging etc. although as mentioned some filaments produce better results
Biggest improvement in print quality though was in getting Simplify3D. Worth every penny for the results it delivers. 👍🏻👍🏻👍🏻
-
And this
-
You can not be serious indeed. 😂
- 3
-
Yes I found that what works well in one printer maygive poor resilts in another printer. Probably has a lot to do with the setup of no two printers being exactly the same.
I find Jet brand filament really suits my printer. Rigid Ink was not that good.
-
-
Should I be worried that that’s just plain English to me??? 🤔
- 1
- 1
-
Wish all apps would be available in IOS or Android versions. Some great android apps out there which I can’t use on my iPad. 🤬
-
7 hours ago, Stu said:
plenty of lunar atlases out there which just put a line down the map, like the Moon Atlas which John posted but I find the realistic images much easier to work with
You should take a better look. The terminator is illuminated in a realistic manner and not just a straight line.
-
Here you go. 🙂
-
-
All l those details are in my Motorising a Skymax 180 Focuser thread.
- 1
-
I fitted the motor unit myself. Not that hard to do.
- 1
-
Have ypu tried the Nexstar resource website.
-
Being a planetary / lunar scope with a narrow fov really wide field eyepieces aren’t that usefull anyway.. A 30mm eyepiece is about the widest usefull one. Even if a very wide eyepiece does vignette it’s not really noticeable.,
The 2” diagonal that the scope comes with could do with replacing with something better. Not that the stock one is that horrible optically but not good build quality. Typical of the cheap diagonals usually suppied with scopes. I use a WO diag SCT fit one with mine.
- 2
-
The ASI1600 should be OK and at least yours is a mono which is good. A bit bigger pixel size than ideal as the Scout has an effective focal length of f/15.5. Something closer to a 2.8mm pixel is a better match.
In-focus can be a problem though particularily if a focal reducer is used which you’ll need for a full disc image.
I just got a short nosepiece for my ZWO ASI290MM as I couldn’t get it to focus with a focal reducer and the standard nosepiece. Of course it’s been nothing but cloud since the short nosepiece arrived. 🤬
I’ve just mptorised the focuser which should really help.
- 2
-
-
Or he’ll have a screw loose. 😁
-
9 minutes ago, tooth_dr said:
Genuine question John, but what does not last as long in the SW focusers compared with a baader?
I have a SW focuser motor on both of mine and this really makes the difference. It doesn’t slip now.
The Baader Diamond Steeltrack is just a higher quality focuser using better materials and made with higher precision so it will last longer without wearing. Basically it’s you get what you pay for.
“How does it work? Imagine a surface like a fine emery cloth, if you push two of the surfaces together their grits mesh. On a microscopic level thousands of 'teeth' grip each other, like teeth on a rack and pinion. The SteelTrack has a very fine grit made from industrial diamonds applied to what would normally be (on a Crayford focuser) a smooth metal roller bearing, which meshes with a textured metal surface on the focuser drawtube. The result is remarkable, it provides the smooth action of a Crayford with no backlash and a higher load bearing capacity. We hope that makes sense, it is much easier to understand when the focuser is in front of you.”
-
-
Worth looking for a second hand Baader focuser as an alternative.
Skywatcher Skymak 127 focuser
in Discussions - Scopes / Whole setups
Posted · Edited by johninderby
No need to remove the focuser knob. With the rubber cover removed a toothed drive pulley will fit. Get a pulley with a 12mm bore and drill it out to a slightly larger size so it will slip over the focuser knob. Some filing may be needed to make the bore big enough.
There is a thread here on SGL on motorising the focuser.