JBadger

I don't understand why you felt the need to explain this to me? I didn't say 2" is inherently better than 1.25" nor did I ask to be told what eyepieces I do or don't need, thanks.

I have the full set apart from the 2.3mm. I find them to be great considering the ~£90 price tag. I tend to use mine with my 4" mak, because focussing that instrument is pretty fiddly, and these eyepieces are pretty much parfocal so I don't have to faff with much refocussing when switching eyepieces. Edited to add: also, for me at least, the ability to get a set of decent 1.25" eyepieces across a useful range of focal lengths for relatively little cost means I save my budget for the nicer 2" eyepieces I'm trying to assemble for my better 'scopes that accept 2" eyepieces.

I've started using a Svbony illuminated crosshair eyepiece for my initial alignments. It is surprising how far off you can be doing it by eye. This makes it easier to align the finder accurately too.

Afraid I can't remember, but I do remember that mine was a little snug at first which I solved by rubbing it on a piece of fine grit emery paper until it would rotate freely.

This is very true. On a cold night, on AA batteries the mount is not reliable. It needs 12v

I assume you're buying the all-in-one kit like this one https://www.firstlightoptics.com/sky-watcher-az-gti-wifi/sky-watcher-skymax-127-az-gti.html ? I bought the same kit (albeit the Skymax-102 version) originally and I found that the vibration at higher powers was just too bad on that tripod. I had to buy the steel tripod upgrade (https://www.firstlightoptics.com/sky-watcher-mount-accessories/sky-watcher-38-stainless-steel-tripod.html) before I was happy. You might consider getting the 'scope, mount head & that tripod separately in the first instance. The other thing I have found useful is one of these: https://www.firstlightoptics.com/adapters/baader-t-thread-to-125-helical-focuser.html. I struggle with the built-in focuser when observing, so what I do is get it into a rough focus at the start of a session then leave it alone, using the helical focuser between the 'scope & diagonal for fine focus instead.

In case OP ever comes back, a couple of points: You have an AZ-GTe not a GTi, this shouldn't matter when you're aligning using the Synscan app but your mount will lose alignment if you move it manually thereafter What are you using for power? I can see you have a cigarette lighter lead plugged in there, what is the voltage/max current of your supply? This mount needs a good 12v supply to work reliably, despite the manual claiming it'll work down to 7.5v

What I did with mine was drill holes for the bolts into a plastic lid from a jar of hot chocolate powder & sandwich that between the two metal parts. This provides the same 'cup' over the exposed bearing and doesn't take up more than a couple of mm of thread on the bolts.

Amen. I really must get myself organised for an early morning trip out to my dark site; I'd hate to miss a decent comet because I can't get out of bed & ready in time. I don't often transport the 10" dob but I think it may be worth putting it in the van just to get the extra aperture for the tail.

I don't disagree, but I see that like me you also have a Mak. If you didn't, do you think you would probably prefer the F11 version over the F7? I think I probably would.

I have recently bought the Altair, and whilst it is a fantastic instrument, it wouldn't be ideal for someone who is interested in doubles or planets. I think you'd want something better able to deliver higher magnification.

Thanks for this. Considering one of these (or the longer version) for eldest daughter's Christmas present.

They were out of stock last week when I emailed; I bought one from Harrisons instead https://www.harrisontelescopes.co.uk/acatalog/altair-starwave-102f7.html#SID=1706