Gina

Anyone know any reason I shouldn't use solder connections to these rather than the illustrated crimp connectors?

Inside. OK so it's a very rough hole but it will be covered up by a 3D printed shield that will cover all mains connections.

Mains input socket and switch fitted into box.

My latest 3D printer uses a box made of 18mm x 2ft x 2ft hardwood plywood panels and weighs a ton!! So yes, 18mm ply is heavy!!

Some ribbon cable and mains input socket, fuseholder and switch unit - for the 3D printer I'm building.

Mains input connector arrived today so I've designed a plate to mount it on the box. Also made a hole in the side of the box to take it.

Decided to put the X endstop on the X carriage where the wires can simply go in the umbilical. So to provide somewhere to attach this plus the umbilical I have redesigned the X carriage front plate. Now printing it in red PETG.

THIS combined socket, fuseholder and switch looks a good option. Probably use an 8A fuse.

SSR for bed heater added.

Seems logical to put the PSU beside the Duet control board to keep high current connections as short as possible. Then there's the question of the mains input and ON/OFF switch. In some ways I would like the switch near the front but I had it near the back on the Titan on a printed plate together with a "kettle socket" beside it. I feel inclined to do the same with this printer (except that it would be near the top on this one whereas it was at the bottom on the Titan). This would keep mains wiring short as well and I could use any "Kettle lead" for the mains input. All mains connections could be shielded from errant fingers with one cover with this arrangement.

Troglodyte!! ?

Wiring for the LH XY motor and Duet board connected to XY and Z wiring.

I have an internal window too - in the sliding door between scope and warm rooms. The scope room also has a window in the apex also made of acrylic sheet cut to shape so that I can see to set up in the daytime without relying on electric light.

A couple of photos of wiring. First is the Z motor wiring under the base of the box and second the RH XY motor wiring.

For my warm room window I just bought an acrylic sheet and made my own frame out of timber. Silicone sealant keeps any wet out.

It's a fox.

Now if only I can solve the XY drive problem. Maybe try the 60mm long NEMA17s though the 48mm ones I'm using worked fine in my Giant printer. Tried increasing motor currents to 2A (they're rated at 2.5A) and now have some X movement albeit with much "grumbling"! Next test... Swapped the 48mm NEMA17s for 60mm ones with current set to 1A (rating 1.2A), r4eversed the drive for the RH motor and the X and Y drives are now working fine ? Some noise on slewing but considering they're mounted on a gert big sounding board, that's not surprising. That's with a slewing rate of 100mm/s in X or Y. PROBLEM SOLVED!! PHEW!!

Connected the Z drive and been testing - tremendous improvement over the 60mm NEMA17s. 3 times the speed, smooth and much quieter. The NEMA23s are a great success

Just connected the NEMA23 Z motors to an 8 way flat cable rated at 4A per wire, soldered and heatshrink sleeved. Then 8 connector female parts crimped on followed by insertion into two 4 pin housings. This wiring business is tedious!!

WOW!!!

Think I'll sleep on the XY problem and work on the wiring and installation of PSU, Duet board, etc. I have the NEMA23s screwed onto the box and now have to extend the wires and add connectors to plug into the Duet board. Since I need new wiring anyway I think I might as well run it where I want it straight off.

OK... I've removed the Duet board (previously in the Titan printer) and substituted the one from my Giant printer and the result is just the same. And yes, I have double checked that I didn't get confused and put the same board back - the config.g file shows the printer as "GinaRep Giant". I changed the other to "GinaRep Concorde". Incidentally, the Giant had the same arrangement of CoreXY with the right hand motor upside down. I haven't touched the config.g since the Giant was working (though not very well).

To confirm my findings earlier, I've re-enabled CoreXY and both motors are working fine but again both X and Y controls drive the carriage in the Y direction - no X movement whatsoever! I'm running out of things to try... I do have the Duet WiFi board from the Giant printer I could try I guess.

I doubt differential expansion will have much affect but there is a bit of stretch in the timing belts.

Sorry Dave - got my left and right mixed up again!! I've had that problem all my life!! You are right for RH above read LH! Sorry for the confusion.