Skywatcher Heritage 130P Flextube, DSLR question

[caerus_sam]

A really wild stab in the dark.

Is it possible to hook up a T Mount adapter to the stated scope.? It would only be used for a short period of time to shoot the moon and I'd be supporting the camera body during the time it would be attached.

In addition, would a Baader ND Moon filter be able to be used in conjunction with a T Mount adapter.? If not, just in general, what density of filter would I use with the scope.? A weak one or a stronger one.?

I'm thinking of costs along both of these requests. I'd love to afford a 150P Dob, but I just can't afford it right now and I'm itching to get going. If the Heritage 130P isn't suitable for my required application, would it be worth looking into an Explorer 130/130P as an alternative to shooting the moon.?

TIA.

[Ad Astra]

I see no reason why your camera and T-ring mount should not work, the only issue, as you have noted, is that of weight.

I have used 'clamp on' camera mounts to shoot 'through the eyepiece' photos from dobs many times. It is how my students learn astrophotography skills.

Don't worry about the brightness, this simply means that your exposure can be shorter, improving the clarity of the image and eliminating focus problems due to image drift or turbulence.

The T-adapter's I've used have the same threads cut in the barrel as a regular eyepiece, and they should be able to take a filter just like an eyepiece does. No harm done in testing them and seeing how you do. If you are using a colored filter, you might try shooting in B/W mode. Some people find that cutting out certain frequencies (colors) can sharpen the image.

I'd be interested in your results with filters and t-rings!

Dan

[caerus_sam]

Thanks for the prompt response Dan.

Do you have any more details or images regarding your 'clamp on' camera mounts.? It's something that I could look into as a safety net if the issue becomes to much of a problem with the T Mount and it actually turns out that it's not feasible.

I prefer shooting faster, then adjusting levels during the post processing, so whilst I'd probably get an ND filter for general viewing, I might not use it for the imagery.

[Ad Astra]

The camera mount we have used in class is from Orion (USA). You can see it on Amazon by clicking <HERE>.

Dan

[ronin]

Wouldn't it be easier for the moon to stick the camera lens on the DSLR, shove it on a tripod and point it at the moon and let the camera do eveything for you?

I have a small 200 Tamron lens that does a damn good job.

The moon is bright enough for this so why complicate matters by attaching camera to a small dobsonian type mount and scope that isn't really up to it.

[blackparticle]

If you want the best shots then you don't want to be touching your camera at all for the shots.

If you are shooting images of 1 sec exposure and below the best way is via a remote control to trigger a delayed shutter of at least 2 seconds. This is to allow any vibration to dissipate before taking the shot.

For longer exposures you can use the same method although if you hold black card in front of the lens as well and remove this after the shutter has gone off to allow for any other micro vibrations from the release to settle.. then replace the card for the exposure time you want.. this will give you a sharper image.

I've just got an Explorer 130P and I'm finding my way with that and how well that works for imaging. I started a thread with some pics on.

[caerus_sam]

Many thanks for the link Dan.

I've been limited to a lens for too long Ronin. I only have a 200mm lens, so I inevitibly crop the image, which always disappoints. Time to move on to bigger and better things and leave the telephoto lenses for my aviation.

Thanks BP. I'll take a look. I've only once shot the moon with an exposure that ran into seconds. The only reason I'd have to support the DSLR is that I wouldn't feel comfortable with the weight of the body, battery grip and 2 batteries being supported by an T Mount.

[blackparticle]

As long as everything is well tightened to the focuser and eyepiece tube correctly you should be ok.

My setup goes..

T-Adapter (locked into camera body)

Threaded extender tube screwed into that

Eyepiece holder screwed onto the extender

Eyepiece inserted into the holder and clamped in with thumb screws

Whole lot then inserted into the focuser on the telescope and clamped in there.

With everything tight it's fairly rigid and quite secure. As soon as I touch the camera though the telescope image micro-wobbles like crazy so having the remote option is fairly essential.

I reckon the Explorer 130P is probably a better option than the flexitube for rigidity if that helps any.

[tms48]

you may have a problem with weight as the eyepiece holder is only a plastic cantilevered unit and can flex. No problem using lenses and barlows but a camera could be a problem

[caerus_sam]

That's the issue I've been playing out in my head tms48.

Thanks again BP. So would an Explorer 130P be a better option overall.? What's it like for viewing.? As I understand it, it's same mirror as the Heritage, but What would the image be like in a comparison between the 2 scopes.?

[the_laughing_crow]

Ive got a heritage 130p, but Ive never attempted to attach a DSLR to it. I would be concerned about doing so because the eyepiece holder is kinda just hanging out there. So attaching something with significant weight and then holding it could introduce significant wobble.

Ive taken shots using a webcam, with (in my opinion) great success (see attached). The heritage 130p is a real joy to use. I used to own a 5" newt on an equatorial mount, the heritage beats it hands down. It packs down to a compact size and can be carried out of the garage and extended and ready to use in minutes.

Have you considered a webcam instead of a DSLR?

[caerus_sam]

That's a cracking go at Jupiter. I have given it thought, but my laptop and OS isn't up to date, so any software that could slow it down won't be going on it. It takes about 2 hours to combine 4-5 photos in Startrails, as an example..

[rowan46]

I have an old laptop for webcam and it works fine with registax I think its not as resource hungry when stacking single frames from an avi

[caerus_sam]

Thanks for that Rowan. I'll look into a webcam then.

[blackparticle]

The Heritage looks slightly more user-friendly when it comes to carrying it about.

The difference in price is about £50 between that and the Explorer 130P. For that you also get the EQ2 mount which is certainly usable and fairly stable even with the camera attached. You also get the single tube OTA which has got to have more strength in the tube especially where the focuser is located. It also stops any additional stray light entering the tube.

Like I hinted at in my other thread, viewing on a telescope in entirely subjective. So far I have seen a very small but sharp Saturn with a few moons, split a double star and viewed an unremarkable smudge of a galaxy. No moon as yet, that's for next week although I suspect it will be quite bright and detailed enough to shoot at about 1/100 on a DSLR at ISO 100. (Hopefully)

I think the 130P for me is going to be a scope for regular lunar viewing and a chance to learn astro-imaging with the camera with the odd gawp at the obvious brighter targets in the sky.

[caerus_sam]

A solid case for the 130P. I've got the same kind of intentions as you BP: Lunar, learning and some other bits. Hell, you're making this a tough one to decide.

[the_laughing_crow]

In terms of your laptop and OS.... why don't you download the latest vesion of Ubuntu and give it a go?

http://www.ubuntu.com/download

I switched from windows last years and have never looked back. Your computer will run at light speed and it has the benefit of being more secure and more customisable than most other operating systems.

You dont have to install it if you just want to try it out. You download it, burn it to a CD and then you can see what its like without installing. Then if you like it you can install it beside your other operating system. When you turn on your computer it will say "Boot into Ubuntu or Windows" and you can choose which one you want to use each and every time. Then if you want to wave goodbye to windows for good you just do a fresh install of ubuntu.

With Ubuntu you can get almost all of the software you need for free and of equal quality or better than the windows versions. AND if you want to use a windows piece of software you can.

I currently use registax and virtual dub on Ubuntu even though they are Windows programes. As for webcam image capute I use WXAstrocapture.

Give it a go, you wont regret it. Ive known two people who were on the verge of buying new laptops cause they were so slow. They installed Ubuntu and realised they didnt need a new laptop, they just needed a new OS.

rant over

[caerus_sam]

Thnk Crow. Solved my problems.!

[the_laughing_crow]

You tried Ubuntu and like it?

[blackparticle]

You might want to do a bit more searching on the 130P variants and prime focus imaging with a DSLR.

I've hit a snag with my Pentax in that it can't get closer enough to the secondary mirror to focus on stars.

I made one mod to the plastic focuser to get the camera a little closer but still not close enough. I still reckon the tube is 1cm too long and there does not seem to be a viable low-profile option for the 130p.

[Cornelius Varley]

You might want to do a bit more searching on the 130P variants and prime focus imaging with a DSLR.

I've hit a snag with my Pentax in that it can't get closer enough to the secondary mirror to focus on stars.

I made one mod to the plastic focuser to get the camera a little closer but still not close enough. I still reckon the tube is 1cm too long and there does not seem to be a viable low-profile option for the 130p.

If you use a barlow lens your problem will be solved. Most reflectors have the same problem you are experiencing. The barlow will move the point of focus further away from the primary mirror and allow the camera to reach focus.

Peter

[Gina]

If you use a barlow lens your problem will be solved. Most reflectors have the same problem you are experiencing. The barlow will move the point of focus further away from the primary mirror and allow the camera to reach focus.

Peter

Exactly what I do for DSLR use.

[spaceboy]

Ive taken shots using a webcam, with (in my opinion) great success (see attached).

My god that's an amazing image of Jupiter! Great success is an understatement. I can barley get that good in my 8" reflector. http://stargazerslounge.com/imaging-planetary/115652-my-1st-ever-webcam-attempt.html I'd been considering getting a heritage for a grab and go but given the "flexy" look of them I'd never have imagined they were that good.

[caerus_sam]

Thanks for the continuing help with these scopes. I'm actually starting to swing back towards the Heritage side, just for the pure ease of use. I'd need something ultra Grab & Go to keep the interest.

[blackparticle]

It's a shame you have to drop a Barlow in the way to achieve the correct focal length given the quality of images I've had from land-based targets. I even had a look to see if the focuser could be mounted from the inside of the tube but it would mean widening and cutting the aluminium hole to fit so not really a goer.

About the only way I reckon it can be done without a lens is to remove the focusing unit altogether and then have the DSLR on a separate tripod with the body up close towards the hole in the scope. Highly impractical but maybe good enough for a few one-off lunar shots or a series of 20 - 30 short exposures for a stacked deep sky shot. Focusing would have to be done manually by adjusting the distance between DSLR body and telescope tube.

I'll try the Barlow method. I've had to chop the supplied Skywatcher barlow in half so it will fit my EP adapter. I'll let you know how I get on. :-)