Motor for EQ5

[Supay]

I have an EQ5 mount and would like to now upgrade it with a motor drive. I see that I can get either a single axis or a double axis drive. For the time I only want it for moving in RA for easier viewing and some light photography. However, should I get the dual axis anyway for future use, possibly involving a computer aligning system? I'm not sure whether buying an upgrade for that comes with its own motor drive or requires one to already be owned.

If they come with their own as standard anyway then I'll likely just get the single axis, but if they require a motor already installed I'll get a dual axis now as it's not much more to buy over the single.

[Bizibilder]

The biggest reason that I can think of for the two motor is convenience - you can align from the handset easily without having to find the slo-mo knob. The second reason is that for about £20 you get a second motor - very useful as a spare should the worst happen!

[Merlin66]

From memory, the basic two motor drive system doesn't accommodate control via a computer. That would require new motors and a controller (ie Syntrak/ Synscan) at additonal cost.

[Supay]

Excellent,thank you for the quick responses. Having a second motor for a backup at the least is a good point. And even having practiced over and over I still fumble for the slow mo knob a lot, so having the option to motor drive it will be useful.

[Carbon Brush]

I have an EQ5 with both axes driven. The decision had been taken for me as I bought it 2nd hand in that state. I don't know what quality of mount/motor you are thinking of. But my mount can only drive a fraction of expected EQ5 weight with good enough accuracy for photos. For example visually I have put an 8" or 10" reflector on an EQ5 and kept the object in the field of view for a reasonable time. But really a small refractor or a DSLR & big lens has in my experience been a more realistic expectation. It is a Synta mount & tripod & motor package all supplied by Orion optics a few years ago. Hope this helps you.

[Supay]

Thanks David, I'll bear that in mind when using it. It's only my start attempts anyway so in future I can upgrade the mount and motor if I need better power.

What size powertank is required? Is the skywatcher 7ah enough or should I plump for the 17ah?

[Bizibilder]

DON'T buy the Branded Astro powertanks they are ridiculously overpriced!! The Sw 17Ah is around £100 - Maplins sell the same for £29.99 unless its less as it is often on offer!!

3in1 Portable Jumpstarter : InCar Battery Chargers and Compressors : Maplin

Hope this helps and leaves you enough change for some extra bits!!

[Cornelius Varley]

Thanks David, I'll bear that in mind when using it. It's only my start attempts anyway so in future I can upgrade the mount and motor if I need better power.

What size powertank is required? Is the skywatcher 7ah enough or should I plump for the 17ah?

For the DA non goto drives you only need 4 D sized alkaline batteries in the supplied battery box. They run at 6 volts and have a low current drain.

Peter

[Supay]

Fantastic,thank you for that,saved me some cash. I assumed the ones on the astro retailers were needed specifically due to certain power hookups, but I should have checked really.

[Bizibilder]

Oops! Thanks Cornelius - I forgot that those were a 6v system! - You can now afford one of these:

Universal 3A DC Power Supply : InCar Power Adaptors : Maplin

To get 6v from your 12v power supply!!

PS I'm NOT a Maplins salesman!!

[Supay]

For the DA non goto drives you only need 4 D sized alkaline batteries in the supplied battery box. They run at 6 volts and have a low current drain.

Peter

Will rechargeable NiMH be good enough, or are they too low voltage? They seem to be 1.2v each, where the alkalines are 1.5v each.

[TopHouse]

I have NiMh's in mine and it still works fine and tracks superbly, I use mine for webcam astro and it tracks nicely when I align properly. I certainly wouldn't be without my EQ5 motors.

[Carbon Brush]

My 'D' size battery box is sitting unused. I built a separate box with a small 'plug top' style charger and rechargeable batteries. It runs for ages and I just charge it when I get around to it. If anyone is interested in the details, I will let you know.

[Supay]

I have NiMh's in mine and it still works fine and tracks superbly, I use mine for webcam astro and it tracks nicely when I align properly. I certainly wouldn't be without my EQ5 motors.

What size NiMHs do you use, TopHouse? There're quite a range out there but I see no reason to get the expensive massive capacity ones if smaller will do me for a night's observing anyway.

[msinclairinork]

From memory, the basic two motor drive system doesn't accommodate control via a computer. That would require new motors and a controller (ie Syntrak/ Synscan) at additonal cost.

Just to second that of which Ken has stated. The Standerd RA/DEC motors only slew up to 4x sidereal rate which is fine for tracking and keeping centered on the EP. They also do not come standred with a computer inferface however this can be achieved my doing a mod such as either www.shoestrin.com or http://stargazerslounge.com/diy-astronomer/81238-simplegpusb-home-brew-auto-guider.html

I did the latter on mine and it works great, but will only really be of use with autoguiding as like I said it only slew's to 4x.

For full GOTO functions and 32x Sidereal you need to go for the Syntrack/Synscan as Ken mentioned.

Certainly a bigger cost but might be future-proofing your self should you wish this later.

Michael

[Supay]

I may go for a goto style system in the future, but not having used a scope for some years, I am rusty and in need of learning the sky again. If I got such a system now, I know I'd be lazy!

[msinclairinork]

Agreed, same fo me lol

Good luck hope it all works out well for you

Michael

[iamjulian]

I have been using the standard 4 D batteries (not NiMH) for a couple of nights and they are still going strong. I read someone got about half a season out of a set. I suppose it depends how many hours you use them each night. The drain must be really low to click around the clock drive though. I still find myself slipping the clutch, using the slow motion controls of the mount, then re-engaging the drive when I am on the target. Means I can leave the control box on the EP tray.

[Supay]

I'll try some alkalines first and see how long they last , as the nimhs aren't cheap

[TopHouse]

Mine are no brand 2500 NiMh D cells, just found these on the bay, and at that price not much different than duracells, all you need is a charger.

Pack of 2 Energizer rechargeable D batteries 2500 mAh on eBay (end time 22-Sep-10 18:48:43 BST)

Even better if you haven't already got a charger :-

http://cgi.ebay.co.uk/UNIROSS-BATTERY-CHARGER-4-D-RECHARGEABLE-BATTERIES-/300452016626?pt=UK_ConsumerElectronics_Batteries_SM&hash=item45f455f1f2

[Rusty Strings]

I measured the current consumption of the dual motor drives. Each motor draws 250mA, so with the RA motor tracking and the Dec motor operating, 500mA is drawn from your batteries.

[Supay]

Mine are no brand 2500 NiMh D cells, just found these on the bay, and at that price not much different than duracells, all you need is a charger.

Pack of 2 Energizer rechargeable D batteries 2500 mAh on eBay (end time 22-Sep-10 18:48:43 BST)

Even better if you haven't already got a charger :-

UNIROSS BATTERY CHARGER + 4 D RECHARGEABLE BATTERIES on eBay (end time 01-Oct-10 13:54:13 BST)

Bought the second one,it's a great price! Thanks for finding that,cheaper than the ones I'd found so far.

[Supay]

Got it installed, tested it at home and it worked. Got into the field and it just wouldn't track. Wouldn't move at all in fact and I couldn't work it out. Gave up and decided to head home and check it there.

As I was finishing dismantling the setup, happened to touch one of the motor parts and realised that while enroute to the location the car vibrations had loosened the clutch screw and the motor was disengaged from the mount. On both RA and Dec. Tightened them up and hit the button....and it worked first time.

Doh, scope almost entirely packed away so just grit my teeth and went home. A reminder to all that cars vibrate a lot and to check everything thoroughly when setting up. My primary mirror locking screws had vibrated completely loose as well, and they were pretty tight after I collimated earlier that day.