Milkyway Photography

[Vic L S]

Hi all - So not exactly new to imaging, I usually do DSO imaging with my telescope + ASI2600mc and do post processing on PixInsight. 

However with the Milky way becoming more visible at a more reasonable time where I am currently based, I'd like to try my hand at milky way landscapes. I do have a Canon 650D that I've used when I started out with astrophotography, before I switched to a dedicated astro camera. 

I'm looking to purchase a widefield lens (Rokinon 14mm f/2.8 or something similar) to go with the DSLR. 

Can anyone recommend a guide online? I have a basic idea but still have a few questions on approach. 

1) I have an AM3, can someone explain the process on how to track with this mount while shooting the Milky way? Do I select a target within the milky way and just track that? 

2) If I choose to go without a mount, I can take multiple shorter exposures and stack them. What software is suitable to stack a landscape shot? 

3) Is the normal process usually to shoot the foreground with a different ISO as not to overexpose, and then combine that with the milky way background? 

4) Are milky way images usually processed on Photoshop? I have only taught myself PixInsight to process astro images so not very familiar with Photoshop, but willing to learn. 

I've watched a few videos on YouTube so I have a basic idea, but still have a few questions and looking for a more comprehensive guide, if someone can recommend one! 

TIA x

 

[Elp]

The SY14mm is one of the best tools for the job, but make sure you're imaging at a dark location with next to no stray light sources, it's a big piece of curved glass and any light that you don't want hitting it will show up with lens artifacts/flare etc.

You can generally image with it without tracking as it's such a short FL but can do long exposure via tracking, it also covers a wide angle of sky so you can take less Pano images to stitch. You have to take multiple panes then stitch them together, I normally do it manually in PS/Gimp. It's not a case of simply aligning, if the panels have different light levels you have to match them up, blend the edges etc.

[davew]

I think a good place to start is with the least complications you can. Try to leave the hours long image building to the second night 🤭 If you have a go with just a camera, lens and tripod then there's less to go wrong and most importantly, less to think about.

Try this guy for some ideas about settings - https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=IzBiWCPLw4A

For stacking on windows try this for free - https://sites.google.com/view/sequator/introduction  ( Different app on Apple )

Good luck,

Dave.

 

[Vic L S]

On 13/06/2024 at 16:34, Elp said:

The SY14mm is one of the best tools for the job, but make sure you're imaging at a dark location with next to no stray light sources, it's a big piece of curved glass and any light that you don't want hitting it will show up with lens artifacts/flare etc.

You can generally image with it without tracking as it's such a short FL but can do long exposure via tracking, it also covers a wide angle of sky so you can take less Pano images to stitch. You have to take multiple panes then stitch them together, I normally do it manually in PS/Gimp. It's not a case of simply aligning, if the panels have different light levels you have to match them up, blend the edges etc.

Thank you for this. 

I have had a look online now and see both Rokinon 12mm and also the 14mm. Any advice on which one to go for?

Also where would be the best place to buy camera lenses in the UK?

[Elp]

I think the 14mm has the sharpness edge over the 12mm but you'd have to compare their MTF graphs. The 14mm definitely has ED lenses (it's part of the model name) so will be better corrected across the frame (expect edge distortion/star elongation on such a wide lens).

Lots of camera shops out there, MPB is popular, wex, many others. I've bought most my lenses off eBay perfectly fine but you'll have to veto the seller and trust your judgement. With shops most offer limited warranties on used too.

[Vic L S]

21 hours ago, davew said:

I think a good place to start is with the least complications you can. Try to leave the hours long image building to the second night 🤭 If you have a go with just a camera, lens and tripod then there's less to go wrong and most importantly, less to think about.

Try this guy for some ideas about settings - https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=IzBiWCPLw4A

For stacking on windows try this for free - https://sites.google.com/view/sequator/introduction  ( Different app on Apple )

Good luck,

Dave.

 

Thank you for this! Will look into getting a lens to start with. Great to have the video as a point of reference, I'm looking forward to giving it a go.  

I am guessing stacking such a wide picture on PixInsight is not possible? 

[AstroNebulee]

40 minutes ago, Vic L S said:

I am guessing stacking such a wide picture on PixInsight is not possible? 

Hi

Sequator is very easy to use indeed. I use it all the time and other astrophotographers do too. 

Clear skies 

Lee 

[Vic L S]

11 minutes ago, AstroNebulee said:

Hi

Sequator is very easy to use indeed. I use it all the time and other astrophotographers do too. 

Clear skies 

Lee 

Thank you. In fact, it was when you posted your reprocessed milky way photos that inspired me! If you have any tips I'm all ears 😊

[AstroNebulee]

1 hour ago, Vic L S said:

Thank you. In fact, it was when you posted your reprocessed milky way photos that inspired me! If you have any tips I'm all ears 😊

Hi

When I use Sequator I mainly keep all the settings as default. When stacking the light frames I use darks and flats. Then set to freeze ground and paint the sky that is to be selected. I think that is it on Sequator. 

I use the samyang 14mm f2.8 lens and it is an amazing lens, paired with my Canon 600D. I do use a dew band on it. Flats are a must with my set up but is possible in photoshop to tweak that. 

I use 13 sec exposures on a static tripod as that's about the limit before startrails. I have no tracking mount. 

For the foreground it depends on how light it is around you at the time. Maybe 800-1600iso at F4 for 1-2 mins. It's a rough guide as it can change. Though I do use long exposure noise reduction on the foreground only. 

You can then mask the foreground in photoshop and paste it onto the stacked sky image. 

Also you can use Starnet++2 to remove the stars and then process the milky-way if you wish. Then put the stars back in after. 

I am by no means an expert and many others are way better than me at Widefield astrophotography. 

Clear skies 

Lee 

[Spaced Out]

You might find this useful, I did when I started doing nightscapes/MW photography.

https://www.lonelyspeck.com/lonely-specks-ultimate-list-of-best-astrophotography-lenses/

Personally I have the sammy 14mm f2.8 and the 24mm f1.4, I much prefer the 24mm in fact I've just bought a second 24mm f1.4 for doing timelapse stuff ! I only use the 14mm for very wide angle stuff like startrails, lunar halos etc, the 24mm gathers much more light and detail so it is my goto lens for the Milky Way, stopped down to F2 it is very sharp. I also use the 24mm for Auroras and Milky Way panoramas. However, I do use a full frame camera not a crop sensor, I am not sure how the 24mm would be on a 650D, maybe too tight ?

I use 6D and R6mk2. The 6D is an old camera now and you can pick them up pretty cheap (I got a 2nd one recently for £250), they are excellent for the price, I'd highly recommend one as a cheap way to enter full frame nightscape/MW photography, they have good low light performance. I've just got a star adventurer mini so I am thinking of getting one of the 6Ds astromodded to use with that. 

Anyway, a bit of a ramble there... hope that link helps.

 

PS - I shoot in dark locations and usually the foreground is darker than the sky, sometimes I paint light or up the exposure time (nothing moving so star trails not an issue), sometimes I do neither, depends on the situation and the effect you are going for. It is quite common practice to do different exposures for foreground and sky tho then blend them together later in photoshop or something similar. I use Lightroom and Photoshop for processing.