DSLR Astro-Mod A Total Game Changer!!

[Louis D]

This image pretty clearly shows how much light in general the internal Canon cyan filter is cutting from 550nm to 700nm:

[TiffsAndAstro]

2 hours ago, Louis D said:

This image pretty clearly shows how much light in general the internal Canon cyan filter is cutting from 550nm to 700nm:

Yeah the area is much larger, so even bigger impact.

Just thinking for future 

[edarter]

To the OP you may know this already, but for the 600D the best ISO to use is 800. Have a look at the explanation on this site below. Been using 800 with mine for a few years now and very happy with it (though I have this weekend just purchased my first ever dedicated astro camera!)
https://dslr-astrophotography.com/iso-dslr-astrophotography/

[TiffsAndAstro]

19 hours ago, MalcolmP said:

I am an imaging noob as well (with 60d astromod and a 60d unmod), so this is a genuine attempt to sort things in my own head as much as suggesting things for you to watch out for !
Or to confuse the heck out of us both ! lol!

3x longer -or wider on the lens stops- has implications for the correct exposure of the rest of the *spectrum (the oft quoted 1/3 histogram rule depending on the light pollution) That 75% +/- is relative to the rest so liable to overexpose everything else.
If it is 3 stops lower on the camera exp. compensation this is a fudge on the gain of the camera electronics which affects the sensitivity as well as the dynamic range, so depends on your desired target.
If you filter out the *rest of the (unwanted) spectrum with a narrow band Ha filter then 3x longer or wider-stops is then sort of ok but not good to chuck it all away in the existing stock filter    Very bad for the SNR. 

I have not checked the prices recently but under £400 will probably be a much smaller size of sensor area than the crop sensor in the 600d. So it "depends again!" on your desired target/scope/lens combo. & on pointing accuracy, ability to find target, need for mosaic etc&etc , ,  !

My brain cell is starting to hurt

It's more than possible I'm looking at wrong thing on flo website I'm sort of planning ahead

[wesdon1]

On 24/03/2024 at 19:01, Elp said:

Longer duration will help, but the unmodded camera is already hindered by blocking out a lot of the narrowband signal. Dslrs are typically much less quantum responsive at such wavelengths also which is another negative.

I had a modded 600D, it was decent, but the astro cameras, even uncooled ones are so much better, the noise profile for one is so much cleaner.

As far as I know, changing exposure compensation on cameras is a software/hardware trick, you're not physically changing the physics of light.

 @Elp   Yes I agree the dedicated astro-cameras are much better than DSLR's modded or not, but for a newbie though, I think it'd be wise to stick to the relative simplicity of a DSLR before getting a dedicated astro-cam because of the need for either a Laptop n software or extra expense of buying a ASI Air or the like. 

( Just wanted to say, I have literally no idea why SGL wwebsite has only just flagged up these messages to me so many months after I posted this??? )

On 10/11/2023 at 11:38, Kianna said:

Wes, I'm curious if you allow, what made you decide to mod one of your existing DSLRs for astrophotography instead of buying a ready-modded camera from Astronomer? For example, I was dreaming of new high-performance and expensive gadgets and decided to search out for an additional income. Now I research and find more info about checked bonuses with no scam for additional ways of getting money. This is the way I am getting closer and closer to the desired amount of money. It helps me every time I want to play, have fun, and earn money. Good luck!

I had a DSLR modded simply because I already owned two of them. I also needed the relative simpolicity of a DSLR until I have the confidence ( and the money! lol ) to dive into dedicated astro cameras! 

Really happy for you in your new money making venture my friend!

[Elp]

I don't necessarily think DSLRs are simpler, you have to deal with more noise and thus post processing your results can at times be more difficult and it's whether the individual is adept at fine focusing with their respective camera. You generally have to dither with a DSLR whether manually or via automation due to walking noise, if the latter you may as well go down the astro camera route and have cleaner, more signal images to deal with from the off.

[TiffsAndAstro]

On 24/03/2024 at 20:36, MalcolmP said:

I am an imaging noob as well (with 60d astromod and a 60d unmod), so this is a genuine attempt to sort things in my own head as much as suggesting things for you to watch out for !
Or to confuse the heck out of us both ! lol!

3x longer -or wider on the lens stops- has implications for the correct exposure of the rest of the *spectrum (the oft quoted 1/3 histogram rule depending on the light pollution) That 75% +/- is relative to the rest so liable to overexpose everything else.
If it is 3 stops lower on the camera exp. compensation this is a fudge on the gain of the camera electronics which affects the sensitivity as well as the dynamic range, so depends on your desired target.
If you filter out the *rest of the (unwanted) spectrum with a narrow band Ha filter then 3x longer or wider-stops is then sort of ok but not good to chuck it all away in the existing stock filter    Very bad for the SNR. 

I have not checked the prices recently but under £400 will probably be a much smaller size of sensor area than the crop sensor in the 600d. So it "depends again!" on your desired target/scope/lens combo. & on pointing accuracy, ability to find target, need for mosaic etc&etc , ,  !

My brain cell is starting to hurt

Hey I really appreciate this it really explains a lot.

I think for me, though, I don't like f stops as they can't be compared on different lenses. 

I've avoided exposure compensation on my dslr (mostly)  but will get a budget telescope soon with (obviously) a fixed aperture. I'll try not to accidentally switch exposure compensation on my camera.

One day I will get rid of dslr and get an im585 cooled osc. I really like the (from my noob perspective) the small fov it gives.

In the meantime I can perfect my telescope and guiding skills. I'm sure there will still be plenty of headroom for me to improve my results before I even get the osc

[TiffsAndAstro]

25 minutes ago, Elp said:

I don't necessarily think DSLRs are simpler, you have to deal with more noise and thus post processing your results can at times be more difficult and it's whether the individual is adept at fine focusing with their respective camera. You generally have to dither with a DSLR whether manually or via automation due to walking noise, if the latter you may as well go down the astro camera route and have cleaner, more signal images to deal with from the off.

In an ideal world I'll get a cooled osc but keep my 600d and get it modded.

That way if I ever have an opportunity to travel to a dark site, my entire kit can be battery powered without needing a huge portable battery power supply thing

[Elp]

That's wise, use what you have at hand. FYI the batteries dont need to be huge, mine are all USB power bank sized (though thicker) and I can get 2-3 hours use out of them depending on temperature.

[TiffsAndAstro]

3 hours ago, Elp said:

That's wise, use what you have at hand. FYI the batteries dont need to be huge, mine are all USB power bank sized (though thicker) and I can get 2-3 hours use out of them depending on temperature.

Yeah I just been looking, some are not too bad, plus I have a lion from a golf trolley might have potential.

Probably only potential for fires though

With my upgrades I should be able to get acceptable results.

Edited April 3 by TiffsAndAstro

[wesdon1]

On 03/04/2024 at 13:17, Elp said:

I don't necessarily think DSLRs are simpler, you have to deal with more noise and thus post processing your results can at times be more difficult and it's whether the individual is adept at fine focusing with their respective camera. You generally have to dither with a DSLR whether manually or via automation due to walking noise, if the latter you may as well go down the astro camera route and have cleaner, more signal images to deal with from the off.

@Elp Yes I see your points, but when you're a total newbie ( atleast from my own experience ) worrying about noise, SNR, dithering etc etc is simply not even a consideration yet. Just being outside and actually taking short subs successfully, then working out a basic calibration, stacking and processing regime is your main goal and is more than enough of a headache as it is! LOL. One will naturally start to learn more about aforementioned issues in time as one matures into the hobby. All that said, I don't dismiss your points at all, I merely think there's validity in both arguments!