Workflow for Canon 1000D?

[michaelmorris]

I've just started down what I suspected will be the long and tortuous journey that is getting to grips with DSLR astroimaging. I've just taken delivery of a Canon 1000D and will soon be getting a CLS filter.

Whilst I have owned a Meade DSI for three years, to be perfectly honest I've never really got to grips with it. However, when I have used it, I have found a workflow put together by a friend very useful. I've put together my own workflows for webcam imaging of the Moon and Planets which again I find very useful.

Does anyone out there know if anyone has put together an image capture workflow for astroimaging using a Canon 450D/1000D using the liveview function for focussing?

[psychobabbler]

Hi Michael

The only one i have ever used is the one done by Pete Lawrence (Starman) in the December 08 issue of S@N. Not sure if this is what you are looking for and might be a bit basic, but this takes you through the entire post capture sequence of dark and flat subtraction etc, using a generic DSLR. My paltry first effort using a 400D can be seen in the "show us your first DSO's" bit of the imaging-deep sky section.

Cheers

PB

[jgs001]

Micheal, what I do with the 450d, once the mount is aligned, is slew around to a nice bright star, doesn't matter which. I used Sirius on Friday. Centre it as closely as possible. Turn on liveview, and adjust the camera settings so the star is visible. Check it's in the white box, and adjust either the box or the scope if needed. Zoom in to 5x, if needed adjust the box to bring the star back on screen. Adjust focus by moving in and out of focus on both sides until as close as I can get. Then zoom in again to 10x and repeat. Once happy with that, take a test shot, zoom in all the way and verify pinpoint stars. Here's my test shot from Friday, this has not had a lot done with it, processing was in Aperture only to reduce the pinkish cast the Skywatcher LP filter produces.

Then slew to my target, set my ebay timer remote for the number of subs of whatever length I want, with a 10 second pause in between, set the camer with mirror lockup, 2 second self timer, press go. The camera and timer remote get on with the capture. I like to let the camera display the preview after each shot, so I can check it.

Then, when the lights are gathered, adjust the time remote for a smaller number for darks etc.

HTH

[philj]

Hi michael

I am not sure what you mean by this, do you mean what order do you do things in?

If so it’s pretty straightforward but will vary depending upon the kit you have. The act of imaging with a DSLR is much the same as with a ccd camera for the setting up and main equipment, scope, mount alignment, calibration, guiding set up.

The main difference is how are you going to Focus and Take the exposures and there are many different ways of doing these

But the gist of it all is:

Set up scope, mount guiding etc.

Fit camera

Focus, (Mask, DSLR Focus, STI Ronchi [my weapon of choice ])

Set up exposure taking device, (lappy running DSLR Focus or Canon software or ebay exposure taker or just a remote release)

Take a proof sub to ensure focus

If OK slew to object and start taking subs (if using SCT make sure the object you focused on is not too far away from the object you are going to image to avoid mirror flop when slewing) . Don’t focus on a star one side of the meridian and then slew to an object the other side. The SCT will loose focus that way.

After sub run, take flats and darks

Go in have a cuppa and process

Phil

[michaelmorris]

After some more research and some very useful answers to queries on this and other forums, here is what I've come up with so far. So far I've only got as far as the basic set up and camera settings. Is there anything I've missed or got wrong?

- Check camera battery power remaining.

- Insert CLS filter

- Line up on target using 20mm eyepiece

- Attach T- adaptor and 2” adaptor to camera

- Remove diagonal

- Attach camera to telescope

- Connect camera to USB port.

- launch EOSUtility software

- Set the following camera settings:

Auto power off to 15 minutes

Picture style to neutral

Image quality to RAW

Exposure to manual (on camera)

Exposure to Bulb

ISO to 400 (or 800)

Turn on liveview

> go to Focussing image routine.

I'm still working on the focussing routine

[jgs001]

If you're shooting in RAW, the picture style defined isn't relevant. It will be applied for the purposes of display only on the camera's screen.

[michaelmorris]

If you're shooting in RAW, the picture style defined isn't relevant. It will be applied for the purposes of display only on the camera's screen.

Thanks John. Is there anything else I've got wrong or missed out?

[Sam]

Michael, the results on 1600 ISO for the 1000D are pretty good so that's worth keeping in mind. Focusing can be tricky - especially if there are no bright enough stars to show up on liveview. I find that 10 sec subs at 1600 ISO produce enough to get a good focus - usually end up taking about 10-15 of them to get it right. With the software bundle you would have got Digital Photo Professional which is great to watch the subs come in.

Sam

[jgs001]

So far I've not shot a dim enough target to need to use an EP to line up on, I normally use the camera to align, so I can focus on something real bright, then slew to my target, equally the liveview display will reveal more if you push the ISO and exposure times up, the view attempts to adjust to reflect what the camera thinks will show in the end picture. The 450d has no clue about astro shots in this regard. it's worth a play in that respect.

I've never shot tethered, so can't comment on that bit, I use a timer remote and an 8Gb SDHC card, nor used an ISO lower than 800. When I was using my NexStar for DSO's I was more often than not pushing ISO1600 to gather in more light.