First Attempt @ AP

[wimvb]

14 minutes ago, Benjam said:

That was just 50 subs @ 20 seconds. 

Then you should try 200 frames, still just over one hour.  Image quality (measured as signal-to-noise ratio) is determined by total integration time = nr of frames*exposure time. If you want to catch more of the weak parts, you will need to increase the exposure time. And take flats of course. When I imaged with my pentax dslr + 135 mm lens, I took flats by pointing my camera at a door that was evenly lit. Even though the door was blueish, the flats worked. Just make sure any shadow is not in the field of view. This method may leave some gradient, but will help you get rid of dust bunnies. Maybe useful until you get that lightbox. 

 

Edited December 11, 2019 by wimvb

[wimvb]

14 minutes ago, Benjam said:

What confuses me is the amount of red colour. I presumed because I’m using a non modded camera then I wouldn’t be able to capture any redness in the nebula.

Some cameras have good enough sensitivity in the red part of the spectrum to capture H-alpha, even without removal of the ir filter. What camera do you use? 

[Benjam]

On 11/12/2019 at 23:56, wimvb said:

Some cameras have good enough sensitivity in the red part of the spectrum to capture H-alpha, even without removal of the ir filter. What camera do you use? 

Canon 1300D 

Ben 

Edited December 14, 2019 by Benjam

[don4l]

On 11/12/2019 at 21:16, Benjam said:

OMG, wow, I can’t believe this is the same picture. Thank you Wim! 

Hopefully the light box @don4l mentions will help me with flats. 

Ben 

 

 

I thought that I should post this update as I tested the light box last night on my FSQ106 at F5.

I think that it will need something to reduce the light.  I've seen people refer to some sort of film that can be used for this.

It works with 3nm narrowband filters.  It was too bright with L, R, G and B filters.  My minimum exposure is 0.2s, and the CCD was fully saturated.

I'll be very surprised if it works at F10 on my Tal200.  Even if it does,  I don't like to take flats at minimum exposure, so I will still need something to reduce the light.

 

[Davey-T]

28 minutes ago, don4l said:

I thought that I should post this update as I tested the light box last night on my FSQ106 at F5.

I think that it will need something to reduce the light.  I've seen people refer to some sort of film that can be used for this.

It works with 3nm narrowband filters.  It was too bright with L, R, G and B filters.  My minimum exposure is 0.2s, and the CCD was fully saturated.

I'll be very surprised if it works at F10 on my Tal200.  Even if it does,  I don't like to take flats at minimum exposure, so I will still need something to reduce the light.

 

I just use sheets of printing paper, once you find how many are needed for a decent exposure, I try to get about 3 seconds, you can make a note for future reference.

Dave

[don4l]

4 hours ago, Davey-T said:

I just use sheets of printing paper, once you find how many are needed for a decent exposure, I try to get about 3 seconds, you can make a note for future reference.

Dave

I'd like to think that I would have figured this out before spending hours on Google, (and some money on something that might, or might not have worked).  I've hung 3 sheets of paper over the panel and it works a treat.

[alacant]

49 minutes ago, don4l said:

I would have figured this out

It reminds me of the guy who'd been trying for hours but still couldn't get his DSLR to connect to his telescope. He then saw how my DSLR coupled with ease. His immediate reaction was to ask me how much a new Canon would be.

Yeah, you need to think about it!

Edited December 14, 2019 by alacant