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Binoviewer first light and questions


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Big thanks again to everyone that has replied and the interesting discussions that followed.

So just an update... and success! ?

I had the Binoviewer out again last night with a bit more time to fettle it and try out the suggestions. Seems that although the eyepiece holders are self-centring with compression rings, there’s still a small amount of play with the eyepieces I was using (stock Skywatcher Super MA 25 and 10mm). Reseating them very slightly and rotating each eyepiece in turn to bring the double images closer until they were eventually overlaid did the job. So, I’m pretty happy with the set up.

Dare I say, can’t wait for the moon to reappear! ? Although, M42 was again utterly superb through the binoviewer last night, even unfiltered. The double cluster too. ?

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On 27/01/2019 at 19:12, F15Rules said:

I do agree that there is something in the idea that single screw eyepiece holders can slightly tilt an eyepiece, and also that the diopter tolerances can be slightly different - enough to give less than perfect merging. Add to that my own experience whereby my right eye focuses at a different point to my left, this is exactly why I am now using a pair of baader focusing eyepiece holders in my binoviewers.

I am lucky that my bvs don't need an OCS/Barlow and can focus at native magnification , with room to spare (adding in the focusing eyepiece holders does consume a bit of back focus).

However, if you are using an OCS you will probably gain enough back focus to use focusing ep holders, so worth a try. The other benefit is that as I don't have compression rings in my bvs, any marks from the set screws will now hit the eyepiece holder T2-1.25" nosepiece, not those lovely Ultima Japan eyepiece barrels!

See link here which might be of further interest..

If you want a relatively cheap microfocus capability, the Baader 1.25" to T2 microfocusing eyepiece holder is worth trying. 

I've just got a pair for using with my binoviewer..as my eyes have slightly different focus points, I can now focus each eyepiece independently of each other until each eye focuses to the best sharpness I can detect. You can of course use just a single focusing eyepiece holder for cyclops viewing.

As the eyepiece holder has a T2 female thread on one end, you need a T2 male -1.25" nosepiece to attach to the eyepiece holder so that the assembly will accept your eyepiece at one end and fit into your focuser or diagonal at the other..you get c6 mm of fine focus (ideal for high power fine focusing) just by turning the knurled barrel and the bottom screw locks focus in place.

See photos below☺:

Photo 1 shows the T2 female to 1.25" nosepiece (available on eBay - search "1.25" to T2 / 31.7m Eyepiece insertion to M35 Prime Telescope Adapter Black, cost £3.22 each delivered from China!)

Photos 2  and 3 show the Baader focusing eyepiece holder (Baader part #2408195 ) and then threaded into the nosepiece.

Photo 3 show a Parks Gold Series 25mm eyepiece inserted into the focusing eyepiece holder.

It's not an FT or Moonlite dual speed, but it only costs a fraction of either of these - around £34 for the focusing ep holder and around £4 for the nosepiece.

Dave

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Hello Dave. 

Had a good read of this thread as I have a similar set of BV’s to yourself but branded Celestron. 

Also my eyes have recently decided to vary ??!! when it comes to focussing. 

Trip to the optician confirmed my feelings. 

Anyhow. Have followed your plan with the Baader focusing eyepiece holders (via FLO ) and the T2 extensions via Fleabay. 

Have them all set up but as usual the clouds have arrived. 

Will be able to use them in my TS Optics binoculars too as theytake eyepiece pairs. 

Think fine focus will be a formallity and deal with the “old dog” issue with the MK1 eyeballs. 

Kind regards   John 

 

 

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