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First Scope - Skyliner 250px Flextube ?


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Im about to buy my first ever scope and ive pretty much settled on this one. Ive wanted one for years and been slowly putting money aside for it, had to put it on hold as we were getting married, now thats done though I can finally buy one.

I dont think id use the portability of the flextube very much but it would be good to have the option, and also to make the whole thing lighter I presume ? I like the idea of a dobsonian as I think most of my viewing will be short sessions, I dont think id have the time to keep setting up an EQ mount. One thing thats crossed my mind is whether I should get the solid tube version, im not bothered about saving the money between the two, but in the future could i mount the solid version on an EQ mount ? Tbh i think if I wanted a change id buy a new scope or make an EQ platform ?

Im just wondering if I need to think about anything before I hit the button on my order, or anything I should order with it, im planning on ordering a light shroud with it and probably a planisphere ?

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I would get the solid tube version. From what I remember the space saved isn't that significant unless you have a storage space that the collapsed truss version fits exactly. I think the truss version is also actually heavier than the solid tube as well. 

If you want to mount it on an eq mount in the future then you can get tube rings to fit the solid tube or Bresser do a 10 inch dob that comes with tube rings already. However, you will need a heavy duty and expensive eq mount for such a large scope. I would be inclined to think that whatever scope you choose will probably always remain on a dobsonian mount. 

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How exciting :)

The flextube version will stow away more compactly, the solid tube will possibly preserve its collimation a bit better over a long session.......either version will be a great first scope.

You will need a collimating tool. A Chesire eyepiece is simplest and most reliable, there are guides a plenty on using them.

The finderscope with the scope will serve you quite well, but if you are not getting a GOTO version then you might want to consider a Telrad, they make it much easier to star hop around the sky.

A planisphere may be useful.......I got one when I first started out.  If I had my time again though I would go straight for a decent sky atlas.

I cannot recommend this one highly enough;

https://www.firstlightoptics.com/books/interstellarum-deep-sky-atlas-desk-edition.html

There was a copy in the classifieds on here the other day, dont know if it is sold yet?

Not only does it have maps that include more or less every visible object in each part of the sky, it also colour codes them as to the ability of certain size telescopes to observe them.

In the future you will likely upgrade your eyepiece collection, and a couple of filters will increase the objects available to you, particularly an Oiii and  UHC filter.

Hope that helps. Please let us know how you get on with the new scope and a first light report, we look forward to hearing all about it :)

Tim

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14 minutes ago, Ricochet said:

I would get the solid tube version. From what I remember the space saved isn't that significant unless you have a storage space that the collapsed truss version fits exactly. I think the truss version is also actually heavier than the solid tube as well. 

If you want to mount it on an eq mount in the future then you can get tube rings to fit the solid tube or Bresser do a 10 inch dob that comes with tube rings already. However, you will need a heavy duty and expensive eq mount for such a large scope. I would be inclined to think that whatever scope you choose will probably always remain on a dobsonian mount. 

my thinking was that the truss version would go into my car easier, a Skoda Fabia, than the solid version

i plan on storing the scope in my garage, so for storage reasons the size doesnt matter too much really

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4 hours ago, BRUN said:

my thinking was that the truss version would go into my car easier, a Skoda Fabia, than the solid version

i plan on storing the scope in my garage, so for storage reasons the size doesnt matter too much really

I think I've seen pictures of an 8" solid tube across the back seats of a corsa so a 10" which is the same length should be ok. For fitting in the boot there tend to be wheel arches in the way so the truss might fit better there. 

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I think what you said earlier is probably correct, I really doubt id end up trying to mount on another mount, id build an EQ platform for this, or choose another scope, but ive done some measuring and the truss version should fit nicely on the back seat, with the base on the other back seat, i like the idea of putting seat belts around it :happy11: but if i do have other passengers like maybe a trip to kielder would be nice if it fit into the boot aswell

I also think ill end up transporting this to my mums a few times, and maybe to a friends, im not 100% still but im pretty sure ill go for the flextube, even though in effect its £150+ more once you have bought a light shroud

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Hi,

whatever you choose, A dob is a good way to find your way around. It is also eminently suited to DIY projects that can suit your budget. The DIY section here has loads of ideas. 

I have a similar setup to one you are thinking of. As you can see, the possibilities are endless!!

Enjoy! :icon_biggrin:

 

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I understand my scope would come with 1.25" eye pieces, 10mm and 25mm, but I think it takes 2" ones too, why would I choose one size over the other when buying more ?

Is a barlow lense something you should have ?

Also I believe the focal length/ratio ? makes a difference to what you should buy, can anyone guide me on this ? Its listed on different sites as F4.7 and F5 I think.

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The eyepiece field stop size limits the true field of view that can be seen through an eyepiece. If you increase eyepiece focal length and keep the apparent field of view the same, the true field of view will also increase. Eventually, you reach the point where the 1.25" barrel prevents a large enough field stop being fitted and so you need a 2" barrel instead. The crossover points are at 32mm for 50°, 24mm for 68°, 18mm for 82° but sometimes if an eyepiece is particularly heavy it may have a 2" barrel for stability even though it is a shorter focal length than those listed above. 

The 6-10" dobs all tend to have a focal length of around 1200mm so you do not need a Barlow to achieve high power viewing. However, you may still want to get one to increase your magnification options from a small number of eyepieces. 

The lower the f ratio, the more taxing the light cone is on eyepieces. Better corrected eyepieces that can deal with faster f ratios tend to cost more. An idea of your eyepiece budget would be helpful for anyone giving specific eyepiece suggestions. 

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This will be my first ever scope, so at the moment probably up to £50 ish ? I cant see me spending over £100 on one tbh

I wont be buying another eyepiece until ive tried the ones that come with it, but id like an idea what to look for as there seems to be sooooo many different ones for sale !

Its a minefield

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2 hours ago, BRUN said:

sorry for so many questions, you have been a great help so far, cheers, how do the 68 and 82 degree differ, is one better than the other for my scope ?

It's the amount of sky you can see in the eyepiece, so a 30mm 68 deg will show 1.7 degrees of sky, whereas a 30mm 82 deg will show 2.05. Both at the same mag of x40 - in the scope you are contemplating.

some people don't like the really wide view as you have to move your eye around to take it all in. And some like to frame the object better. The wider view will keep an object in view for a longer time - which can be a plus when using a non-tracking dob

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