ADM Dual Mounting Bar Bolts

[gnomus]

I have managed to 'thread' one of the silver bolt handles on my ADM Dual mounting bar.  I didn't think I had overtightened it especially, but it is spinning around rather uselessly nonetheless.  It seems that the metal used for the bolt handle is softer than that used elsewhere.  

I could try to source a replacement handle, but I am wondering if I might be better off replacing all of the bolts with a hex-headed stainless steel bolt instead.  Has anyone done this?  Does anyone know what thread and length of bolt is required?

Thanks in anticipation...

[Zakalwe]

Is it the knob spinning on the handle, or the whole bolt spinning in the tapped hole? if it's the former, then I would expect that some Loctite 2700 or Loctite 9480 (or other 2-part epoxy) would bond the knob back onto the shaft. If the tapped hole has been stripped, then a helicoil kit will work.

I wouldn't use stainless bolts as the majority of SS bolts are Grade A2, which are much, much softer than ordinary mild steel bolts. They are very easy to shear, even by hand. If you insist on SS, then make sure to get high-tensile SS bolts (even those are only about 75& as strong as ordinary high-tensile bolts).

Ordinary plated mild steel bolts would be my choice.

[gnomus]

13 minutes ago, Zakalwe said:

Is it the knob spinning on the handle, or the whole bolt spinning in the tapped hole? if it's the former, then I would expect that some Loctite 2700 or Loctite 9480 (or other 2-part epoxy) would bond the knob back onto the shaft. If the tapped hole has been stripped, then a helicoil kit will work.

I wouldn't use stainless bolts as the majority of SS bolts are Grade A2, which are much, much softer than ordinary mild steel bolts. They are very easy to shear, even by hand. If you insist on SS, then make sure to get high-tensile SS bolts (even those are only about 75& as strong as ordinary high-tensile bolts).

Ordinary plated mild steel bolts would be my choice.

Thanks Stephen

I note what you say about SS.  I am pretty sure that the issue is the handle.  It screws on normally, then just as one would expect it to tighten it starts turning again.  There is a small black washer that goes between the handle and surface of the mounting plate.  If I remove the washer then I can tighten the handle properly, but I assume the washer is there for a reason.

Steve 

[Zakalwe]

7 minutes ago, gnomus said:

Thanks Stephen

I note what you say about SS.  I am pretty sure that the issue is the handle.  It screws on normally, then just as one would expect it to tighten it starts turning again.  There is a small black washer that goes between the handle and surface of the mounting plate.  If I remove the washer then I can tighten the handle properly, but I assume the washer is there for a reason.

Steve 

It sounds likely that you have stripped the threads in the body of the bar then. The washer is there to stop the tightening bolt from marking the bar surface- removing it allows the bolt to go in further and grab some clean threads. You will be only using a turn or two of thread, so this will strip easily. Take the bolt out and have a look at the threads for damage.

You have a few options:

1. Tap the bar to the next size up and use a larger bolt.
2. Use a Helicoil. These are good for a permanently fixed bolt- one that is constantly being loosened might cause the Heicoil to wind out.
3. Use a Time-Sert repair. These are superior to Helicoil, but the kits are expensive. Probably best to find a workshop to do the work.

Personally. I'd opt for option 1 as I am a tight git  and have the gear to do it. It'd probably take about 20 minutes to sort.

[gnomus]

That wasn't the news I was hoping to hear!!! 

[Davey-T]

Buy a new bar Steve it's not worth the risk, and stop working out 

Dave

[Zakalwe]

No need for a whole new bar. A replacement saddle is £79 from FLO.

 

 

[triton1]

I'd go for option 1 aswell quite simple and quick to do and I am also a tight git.

[Davey-T]

5 minutes ago, Zakalwe said:

No need for a whole new bar. A replacement saddle is £79 from FLO.

 

 

But then he'll have some spares 

Dave

[gnomus]

Thanks all.  I'm still not 100% sure about the diagnosis.  The problem started when I was undoing the knob and found that it unscrewed completely from the threaded rod (which remained resolutely stuck fast - because the other knob was tight).  Is it possible that I have stripped most of the thread inside the knob itself, and it is only when I removed the washer that I allowed the rod to have access to a pristine bit of the thread inside the knob? 

[Zakalwe]

Right...just had a look at mine. I had forgotten that the threaded bar is captive and the knob screws onto it.

It sounds like the threads have stripped in the knob. The threaded bar is steel, so that's unlikely to be damaged. Have a word with FLO and see if they can source a replacement knob for you. In the unlikely case that the threaded rod is damaged then I'd expect that it is just threadlocked into the bar and a couple of M6 nuts locked onto it (or a stud extractor) would remove it.

 

[gnomus]

Ah that is much better news.  I am sure that it is the knob that is kaput and not the rod - else it wouldn't tighten sans washer.  Worst case scenario is I could just put a nut on.  But I will try FLO for a replacement knob.  

[Zakalwe]

Just now, gnomus said:

Ah that is much better news.  I am sure that it is the knob that is kaput and not the rod - else it wouldn't tighten sans washer.  Worst case scenario is I could just put a nut on.  But I will try FLO for a replacement knob.  

Lubricate the thread on the rod with a drop of oil and run a suitable nut up and down the threads before putting a replacement knob on. The threads might have bits of the old thread stuck on them and running a nut up and down a couple of times will clean the threads.

 

[gnomus]

Good tip.  Wilco.