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Failing Miserably!

Herzy

By Herzy
in Getting Started With Imaging

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Herzy

Herzy

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I stacked 21 x 30s of M42, no darks or flats.. I see virtually no noise in the final stacked photo, so this means I should be able to stretch the data to get some nice detail... right? Well when I bring the image into nebulosity the histogram peaks in the middle, rather then the left side as I see in most tutorials. Why is this? It seems no matter how hard I try (I've been trying for the past 3 hours) I can't get a good photo. I simply don't know what I'm doing.

The best results I could get was using the digital development tool, and it still was not much better then the original photo. Help please!

-Hayden

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Herzy

Herzy

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M42-Stack

 

Here is the stacked image. I know it's a lot to ask but if anyone has some spare time can you process this for me? I feel like something is wrong with my image because I can't process it.

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Owmuchonomy

Owmuchonomy

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I had a quick play with it.  The blue channel is shifted quite substantially so bringing the colour balance back shows up the lack of flats and darks.  There is a lot of vignetting and some dust bunnies so I would urge you to apply flats before trying to process it.  Did you apply any histogram or colour adjustment during stacking?  Its best not to.

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Scott

Scott

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22 minutes ago, Herzy said:

No I didn't I simply stacked them. So I took all of those for no reason? :( You can't bring out detail?

Downloading now so I'll have a play after  I feed my face :)

 

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Herzy

Herzy

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I am using a Nikon D3200. Are calibration frames necessary? I know they are helpful, but couldn't I still get a good image from all of those pictures? 

Last night I took 60 x 30 seconds of M81 & M82 (still no calibration frames). I'll see how that goes.

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Joel Shepherd

Joel Shepherd

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You want NEF raw. JPEG compresses and loses data. I'll play with your stacked image later (and give my self a break from my RGB frustrations :-). It looks like you should be able to get something out of that.

AP is hard and if you aren't regularly frustrated by it, you're not learning. It's just all part of the fun.

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Owmuchonomy

Owmuchonomy

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Nikon's own RAW format is NEF I believe.  As long as your stacker such as DSS will read NEF files then that is the one you should be using. So pick NEF(RAW).  Yes, calibration frames will help immensely.  You have a lot of vignetting in your image so take flat frames to use and counteract this when you stack.

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Scott

Scott

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I'd just take raws. no need for jpgs as well. Flats are really important as you can see in my pic there is loads of gradient. Its not too late to take flats, as long as you get the camera/scope set upthe same as it was. Raws make a huge difference. what iso setting were you using? Try for 800 if possible and if you have the option for a histogram on the camera, keep it 1/3 from the left. anyway, here it is

M42-Stack0.jpg

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Herzy

Herzy

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I took everything down and my camera screws in so theres no way I can get it aligned perfectly again. :( Oh well, practice makes perfect! Great job processing, mind if I steal that? It looks clear today so Ill get as much data as I can (including calibration frames). Thanks everyone!

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Scott

Scott

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27 minutes ago, Herzy said:

I took everything down and my camera screws in so theres no way I can get it aligned perfectly again. :( Oh well, practice makes perfect! Great job processing, mind if I steal that? It looks clear today so Ill get as much data as I can (including calibration frames). Thanks everyone!

Mate,  you did all the hard work, it's yours to do what you want with. It's all about learning from our mistakes... If it were easy, visual guys would be doing it :evil4:

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Marky1973

Marky1973

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Hi Herzy, I had a fiddle as well and over-stretched it a bit as well as clipped it, just to show you there is plenty of data in there (and I am an amateur) - you really need to get some calibration frames in there though - DARKS/FLATS and LIGHTS will help you - there are a couple of "dust bunnies" that will benefit from FLATS. You will also need to start upping the length of exposure (and more of them) to get more detail, but there is a lot in there for just 30 second exposures - get some calibration frames in there and you should be able to start getting some nice images. (Thanks for posting the image, I'm still learning, so nice to have a play!)

M42_Stack_DBE.jpg

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