First Light with Quark

[keramos]

Hello Everyone,

Earlier this week I received Quark Chromo, and managed to take it out for a brief spin this afternoon before the clouds spoilt all the fun. And I must say, wow it was amazing viewing via the eyepiece, and I managed to see my first prom (although for a brief moment).

However in all that fun I tried taking some captures with the ASI174MM, but I could not get focus and in the end just took a screen grab before the clouds turned up (see below).

I'm using SW Evostar 80ED with UV/IR Cut Filter on diagonal + Quark + 25mm Plossl and or ASI174MM with Fire capture.

1) Newton Rings, there are several posts roviding solutions. So this means more expense 

2) Is it focus or just the settings in fire capture? any suggestions for settings exposure/gain/gamma etc etc using Quark in FireCapture.

3) I have 0.85x reducer/flattener, would that help?

Please advice.

Apologies, all I could manage was a screengrab.

[keramos]

Just realised, I should have posted this in the imaging section.

Could I kindly request the moderator to move it under Imaging - Solar.

Thank you.

[michael.h.f.wilkinson]

I have just moved the thread as requested. Regarding the image, I woner if the Quark is on-band. Focus seems slightlyoff too. You could try reduing Newton rings using flats (cheap option)

[Pete Presland]

A lot of quark users on here I am sure there will be some hands on advice soon.

Sent from my GT-N7100 using Tapatalk

[Davey-T]

Looks out of focus, could you focus OK using eyepiece ?

I get Newton Rings unless I use a .5X focal reducer but others get them without one so no rhyme or reason to them, as you say more expense buying tilt adapters although flats generally remove them.

Focussing is quite precise it's easy to go straight past without realising.

Dave

[keramos]

Michael, Pete & Dave,

Thanks for the reply, I guess the seeing conditions added to the poor focus (when I took captures with solar filter and Celestron, there was continuous uninterrupted access to the sun). However this time it kept clouding up ever so often, hopefully tomorrow will be clear skies.

Is there any recommended settings for image capture (exposure/gain) or it is pure experimentation.

Btw just looking through the eyepiece was soooo rewarding.

[Davey-T]

I set exposure and gamma as low as possible then turn up gain as needed, if you click the Sun in profiles and set it up as you like and save it next time you start up it should be all ready to go.

Start with Quark setting centered then experiment moving it a click at a time, focus on a filament and see it pop off the surface as you alter tuning

Motor focuser is a good investment for imaging so you can hide under a blanket and focus remotely.

Dave

[keramos]

Thanks Dave, duly noted 

Any recommendation on the focuser?

[Davey-T]

This is about the cheapest option, after that, as with most things astro related the skys the spending limit.

Dave

http://www.firstlightoptics.com/astronomy-cables-leads-accessories/skywatcher-auto-focuser.html

[Luke]

Congrats on the Quark!

I use two cameras, ASI174 and Grasshopper 3, I have more experience in h-alpha with the Grasshopper, so please don't take these as being great ASI174 settings, but I have been using:

- 8 bit capture

- Gamma at 50

- Exposure time 7.5ms - this is a key setting for me, I have set it as high as it will go while still allowing me the fastest frame rate my laptop can manage.

- Gain is then used to make the image bright enough. You generally want gain as low as possible but I have to use quite a bit of gain because the short exposure of 7.5ms leaves the image very dark with no gain. Turn the histogram dispaly on and make sure the image is covering about 60 to 70 percent or so. Gain generally increases noise in an image but stacking will help reduce the noise. The ASI goes so fast that I reckon with all the frames you get, you can afford to crank up the gain a bit. I think the gain I use varies by something like from 60 to 140, it depends on how clear sky is, how high up the sun is, etc.

- Duration of 60 seconds or so, I tend to use 70s which I feel is pushing it a bit, I sometimes can see some blur on faster moving features I think. 60 seconds might be a little safer. For a fast moving prom perhaps even less duration though I tend to just do 70s all the time. I tend to just use the same settings for every solar feature, partly because no doubt I'd get confused and use the wrong settings for the wrong thing!

Using a reducer should help reduce Newton's rings a bit. When focusing I tend to move the gamma down to minimum then push it back up before capturing, so that I get better contrast while focusing.

Stick a towel on your head while focusing or make a laptop shade or even use a brolly/shade however you can get it. It's hard to focus on screen if the screen is not reasonably well shaded.

Hope somethign there helps.

Quark rocks :laugh:

The SW ED80, I have had my eye on one for a long time, I bet it's lovely with the Quark! I use the SW ED100 for visual and the Quark in it blows my mind.

PS I made this poor quality lappy shade in about 45 minutes or something like that after seeing a much nicer one made by Steve Ward on this here very forum. Cheers, Steve, sorry for my sloppy finish   Has lasted a good year, though!

[keramos]

Hi Luke,

Thank you for the detailed response, even though I'm not using the same camera it is always good to have a rough idea (thank you).

I have seen the images you have taken and they are really good. Someday I endeavour to capture such images, but unfortuantley our friendly neighbourhood Star has been making itself a bit scarce in this part of the country

However I've enjoyed viewing via the eyepiece (with dark towel over my head), i've caught the "Eiffel Tower prom" briefly on Saturday...it is a surreal experience. Everything seems in slo mo (at least to me) and is amazing.

I'm thinking of investing in a tilt adapter ( Rowan Engineering, I think) and I already have a 0.85x reducer/flattner for SW ED 80 but wonder if that would help. Moreover not sure if the UV/IR cut filter wiil be mounted:

1) between the diagonal and 0.85x reducer/flattner

or

2) diagonal then 0.85x reducer/flattner and then the UV/IR cut filter

Haven't tried any of the above....

Some of SGL folk seem to use 0.5x focal reducer, is that attached to the eyepiece? if so would it be worth investing in one?

ps: FLO having a sale, might be able to take advantage

[Davey-T]

UV / IR filter fitted in the front of the diagonal, I use .5X focal reducer in the camera, don't generally use it for visual, just swop eyepieces.

Dave