Got my T-adapter, getting just as blurred images as I was before

[Arcturian]

I've had a T-Ring for a while when I first got it I posted on some forums about why i couldn't get focused, and it was concluded that I need a t-adapter, and the idea was that the adapter would increase focal length and enable focused images, attached is the pictures taken with adapter, out of focus to the extent you can see the primary mirror & supports. The images with adapter look just like looking through eyepiece with no lens, am I missing something along the lines of needing a lens between mirror & camera? It seems that would fix the problem, but right now I can't see any way that that would happen, my eyepiece is 1.25" like most others, but a lens couldnt fit in anywhere it seems. I hope I'm wrong though because if not it could be a fundamental problem with my telescope and focal-length/imaging in general.

Thanks in advance,

Imad

[jambouk]

1. Your collimation looks off

2. Have you tried putting a barlow or powermate between the camera and the telescope?

You don't use the cameras lens, the telescope becomes the cameras lens.

James

[D4N]

Hmm doesn't the 130M have a T-adaptor built into the focuser? Using a separate T adaptor will move the camera further away from the focuser and this normally the wrong direction on a Newt.

Some Newtonians are not able to achieve prime focus with a DSLR unless they are modified.

I have a SW130P and that requires the camera to be either inside the focuser tube or the scope modified to reach prime focus.

You can use an eyepiece but then you need to fix the camera to the eyepiece and the results may not be great.

You will also find that the standard focuser will sag and drift when the weight of a DSLR is on it, this can be mostly fixed with an overhaul and some modifications though.

Sent from my iPad using Tapatalk

[D4N]

Below is the focuser off my 130P, it has been modified to make it shorter and also has two locking bolts fitted to prevent sag and drift.

It has also had the skywatcher 'grease' that is more akin to glue removed and replaced with some nice silicone grease to allow finer adjustment.

I would highly recommend setting your camera up in the day and see what you can focus on. Don't point at the sun though.

If you can focus on near objects but not far ones you need to get the camera closer to the scope.

Sent from my iPad using Tapatalk

[Arcturian]

Soon after posting this I realised the T-adapter fits perfectly into a barlow lens, and after some adjusting I got some in-focus images.. Hurrah! Now I just need some batteries for my EQ-3 and polar align and I'll be on my way

[Arcturian]

(Batteries for the motor drive, by the way)

[jambouk]

Good work

[Astrosurf]

The Barlow will increase your focal length though (2X, 3X etc), and therefore double or triple the scope's speed i.e. your scope is about  F7 and with a 2X Barlow will be about F14, so imaging will need longer subs. Not ideal, I would have thought. Some people move the mirror up the scope to achieve focus, but I don't know how that would affect visual.

Correct me if I'm wrong, guys! 

Alexxx

[Arcturian]

The magnification wasnt so much that it's a major problem, but obviously under that magnification exposures over a few seconds are a no-no for now. I'm dubious about how well the motorized mount will track the sky, as I've heard EQ-2s arn't really good enough for really long exposures as It's not tracking with stars really, it just moves the mount at a fixed rate. Of course I'll be back with how well the motorized mount actually works, I just don't want to get my hopes up, at worst it'll just make viewing a whole lot easier/ more enjoyable by not having to track the scope yourself. At the magnification I had, jupiter was off of my viewfinder in around 10-14 seconds

[Alienfox]

Below is the focuser off my 130P, it has been modified to make it shorter and also has two locking bolts fitted to prevent sag and drift.

It has also had the skywatcher 'grease' that is more akin to glue removed and replaced with some nice silicone grease to allow finer adjustment.

I would highly recommend setting your camera up in the day and see what you can focus on. Don't point at the sun though.

If you can focus on near objects but not far ones you need to get the camera closer to the scope.

Sent from my iPad using Tapatalk

How much did you remove from the focuser?

[D4N]

About 12mm

Sent from my iPad using Tapatalk

[Alienfox]

About 12mm

Sent from my iPad using Tapatalk

Thanks.