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LRGB Filters - Mono camera


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Right - so Id like to use LRBG with my QHY - can anyone recommend a good set - got the web link?

Also - once Ive got my images how do I combine them - Ive been using PIPP and reg6 on one image but not sure how to combine them - do I combine then refine or refine them all then combine?

I have the Astronomik though Baader do a nice set ( the more expensive one ) that are more reasonably priced and are Parfocal to each other so if your scope is well corrected then you'd spend less time refocusing between filter changes. The post above is spot on as for the tutorial.http://www.firstlightoptics.com/rgb-filters-filter-sets/baader-lrgbc-ccd-filter-set.html

A.G

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erm.... right - here's the thing - I could buy a set of LRGBs for around £200 - but then a ZWOmc2 costs about the same..... aaarrggghhh !!! 

Which one would you buy :/

The ASI 120MC is a fine camera. I had one and I sold it to a very nice member of SGL as I am not doing planetary, not much anyway. I use my ASI 120MM mainly for guiding now. If you go the LRGB way you'd also need to budget for a decent filter wheel, manual will do as long as the mechanics are sound. The decision is yours in the end.

A.G

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You should be able to get good planetary images from your QHY5.  I went for a mono camera (ZWO) plus filters plus wheel.  I'm not really qualified to get into a colour vs mono camera debate.  You should look into this issue though to get an understanding of the pros and cons.  You can get a set of absorptive filters for significantly less than £200.  You can get a reasonably inexpensive manual filter wheel.  

It doesn't take that much longer to shoot three lots of video.  And the combination of colour channels is quite straightforward as Zakalwe's tutorial demonstrates.  In fact if I process all three in AS!2, I find that the program seems to autoselct teh alignment points such that the finished TIFFs are already aligned. 

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It doesn't take that much longer to shoot three lots of video.  And the combination of colour channels is quite straightforward as Zakalwe's tutorial demonstrates.  In fact if I process all three in AS!2, I find that the program seems to autoselct teh alignment points such that the finished TIFFs are already aligned. 

This is where I really recommend an electronic filterwheel. If you use Firecapture you can automate a capture sequence so it advances the filters and refocuses between runs. It turns collecting multiple colours into a one-button click affair. Really handy when capturing Jupiter.

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This is where I really recommend an electronic filterwheel. If you use Firecapture you can automate a capture sequence so it advances the filters and refocuses between runs. It turns collecting multiple colours into a one-button click affair. Really handy when capturing Jupiter.

I do it manually.  I'm interested in this "automated" process, but I need to find out more about electric focusers.  This will certainly be an issue when I finally get my observatory (with warm room).  I don't want to hijack MeSeany's thread, however.  If anyone feels like PM'ing me some electric focuser options I would be most grateful.  

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I don't want to get into a one camera vs another type debate.  I will only say that there isn't a lot wrong with the camera that you have.  Have you checked out what can be achieved with the QHY5?  I am not sure that moving to another similarly spec'd camera will give you the leap of quality that you are no doubt seeking.  For lunar work, I (and some others) just shoot mono and use an IR pass filter.  For planetary work, combining images shot through R, G & B filters is not difficult.  Certainly, it is the one of least taxing areas of planetary imaging.  

The sensors in a colour camera are the same as the ones in a mono camera.  The difference is that the colour camera has the "filters" overlaid on the chip in a Bayer (RGGB) matrix (a series of 2x2 sensor squares).  So in a colour camera only a quarter of the sensors capture actual red data, a quarter blue and a half green.  The camera then 'interpolates' (guesses) what the red data would likely be for the sensors that have the blue and green filters overlaid on them.  It does likewise for the blue and green data.  With a mono camera you capture the actual red data for all of the pixels on the chip.  You will understand, therefore, why many believe that a mono camera is capable of capturing more detail than a one-shot colour.  

At least that is how I understand it.  Others may think I have given an over-simplistic outline of how a colour camera works.

On the other hand, there are plenty of people using OSCs and getting good results with them.  I'm pretty sure that the aforementioned Mr Peach uses mono, though.  

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But LRGB is roughly same price £200 :/

You will also need motofocus, a good Barlow, possibly some extra telescope accessories, and then when you will start imaging planets it will take some time to get to know the equipment - learn how to recognize temperature drift, miscollimation or just bad seeing. Then at good nights pretty planetary AVIs won't pop out just like that. You will have to test, test and test what is the optimal capture and processing schema in your case. Switching camera won't do it for you, and it won't be very cheap either. Planetary imaging is a specialization and thus it requires more specialized hardware/software/processing.

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