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M78 with Modded 100d


Peakedge

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Had a go at M78 on saturday and glad to say my noisy power supply issue is now sorted and so I am not limited to a few hours of camera battery life. I modified an old PC PSU which now steadily supplies both the mount and camera with no issues at all.
Since I had more time, began to experiment with various settings. I began with 10 x 5 min exposures of M78 at ISO 800, then followed it with 10 x 10 mins at ISO 400. I discovered that the level of detail was about the same but the noise was far less on the 10 min subs. I have attached the 10 min stack.

post-39281-0-78439500-1424679765.jpg

From other postings (taken with CCD) and what is tantalizingly teased in this one, I can tell that there is more detail to be had. This brings me to a few questions.

To get more detail should I stick with 10 min subs but add more of them or up the ISO to 800 with 10 min subs? Or both? Or could it be that I am I approaching the limit I can expect for this target with a DSLR?

Advice and comments appreciated.

David

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Very nice :) just goes to show what the 100D is capable of... I'm considering getting one myself...

When I was more actively imaging using modded DSLR's I used to go for a minimum of 4Hrs and ideally 8hrs total integration time on a target... that was with a 1000D Megrez72 and FFIII Combo working around f4.8...

Peter...

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Very nice :) just goes to show what the 100D is capable of... I'm considering getting one myself...

When I was more actively imaging using modded DSLR's I used to go for a minimum of 4Hrs and ideally 8hrs total integration time on a target... that was with a 1000D Megrez72 and FFIII Combo working around f4.8...

Peter...

Many thanks Peter.

Did you use darks and were they of any benefit as I seem to recall that view that they can introduce more noise due to the inconsistency of sensor temp? I do use flats and bias frames, however.

David

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Flats and bias was all I used to use as well... A small mis-alignment in PA used to produce a sub pixel drift between frames that over the long run would  "dither" the frames...

 I am so glad that BYE has a dither routine built in! :smiley:

Not being a DSLR imager myself,i can appreciate how good this image is.

I do feel that there is more in there to pull out.(In better hands than mine though). :smiley:

Good work.

Mick.

Thanks for the comment. I feel there is more in there but cannot but I certainly can't manage it with CS3. Think more subs will be the only way.

David

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Excellent image, colour really is nice.

With regards to the sub length and ISO - have a look at the histogram, you don't really want the peak to go past 50 percent.

If your light pollution is anything like mine, 10 minute subs will be pretty blown out at ISO 800 (I also use an Astronomik CLS-CCD).

But actually taking one and checking the histogram is the best way to find out.

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More subs, certainly. Lots more. And then work on the contrasts in Ps. (CS3 is fine.) I think the black point could come down a tad and then you could make up some special curves to lift the brighter parts. Pin the dark stuff where it is and then put a little kink upwards into the curve above that.

Olly

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More subs, certainly. Lots more. And then work on the contrasts in Ps. (CS3 is fine.) I think the black point could come down a tad and then you could make up some special curves to lift the brighter parts. Pin the dark stuff where it is and then put a little kink upwards into the curve above that.

Olly

 I really have no experience using curves; tend to use levels, and so trying what you describe may take some time, as simple as it sounds :huh:

David

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