Astronomical 'First Light' for my Canon 1000D - What am I doing wrong?

[Arcturian]

These images are all of the moon, a good place to star with imaging, i thought. I managed to make images less saturated that originally, by no means perfected it but i somewhat could control that aspect, but as you can see they are all majorly blurry, below are a few images I took that are pretty much representative of the whole lot. The only settings I had time to alter were exposure, iso, and eyepiece zoom/focusing, though the last one I didnt get to play with for as long as i'd hoped. There was only a brief window to actually get an image of the moon so I couldn't practice much at all.. I was wondering if you guys could tell me what settings i should be changing/ concentrating on, and just generally any tips for me starting out imaging, bare in mind I'm mainly interested in stellar photography, not as much lunar photography.


1/100 exposure: http://postimg.org/image/bawds4cj7/

0"8 exposure : http://postimg.org/image/ms8jvi5vt/

1/40 exposure: http://postimg.org/image/qq7wpcz4t/

There are many more pictures at different settings but not ones that stood out from these ones, most of them are over saturated contrary to what the 3 pictures would have you believe, dimmer ones were a lot rarer

Regards, Imad

[Arcturian]

I think/hope the moon is on a path to come back into sight some time tonight, if conditions are good I'll go get some more practice and see if I can solve this blurryness

[oldpink]

thats a focus issue
use your viewfinder to focus on the target

[ronin]

The moon can be taken at about 1/250 second at ISO 200 without much trouble. All your exposures indicate times that are too long so over exposed.

Looks as if they are out of focus as well.

Did you aim the scope at the moon and focus the image by the live view?

If you did the other of drop an eyepiece in, focus with that then swap to the DSLR then the eyepiece and the sensor are at different places so the DSLR image is out of focus.

Finally did you press the Go button for the image?

If so that means the whole thing is still vibrating/shaking when the picture is taken.

Get a cable release for taking a shot and if you don't have one set the timer to 2 seconds, press the button and leave it. After 2 seconds the camera will take a shot and the vibrations will have died down.

The moon will be back tomorrow, however weather sounds pretty poor for tomorrow.

For the exposure length stick the lens on the camera and take a few shots at different exposures and see what comes out reasonable, then use that as a first go on when on the scope. That will give you a rough idea. Could try centre spot exposure and read what comes up in the camera display.

[Thalestris24]

Hi

All way out of focus I'm afraid... You mention eyepiece zoom? Not sure what you mean by that but normally you should be imaging at prime focus i.e. with camera connected directly to the scope - not via the eyepiece.

Hth

Louise

[Arcturian]

For some reason when I was shooting i think i recall seeing 'MF' as in manual focus, how would i go about changing that on a EOS camera?

In reply to what you guys said I tried altering the focus on the eyepiece, thats what i meant thalestris. All of the pictures came out like the ones posted. If MF meant manual focus that would be a problem, I'm using M mode on the canon by the way

[oldpink]

ok step by step
connect the camera directly to the scope, use live view on the camera
move the focus wheel full in then slowly out till you get an image on the live view then fine tune it
and note how far out your focus tube is
a good starting point is 1/125 or 1/250 at ISO 200 - 400 for a test shot
but don't trigger the camera manually using the button
worst case use the timer function at 5 sec min to take out any shake

[Thalestris24]

For some reason when I was shooting i think i recall seeing 'MF' as in manual focus, how would i go about changing that on a EOS camera?

In reply to what you guys said I tried altering the focus on the eyepiece, thats what i meant thalestris. All of the pictures came out like the ones posted. If MF meant manual focus that would be a problem, I'm using M mode on the canon by the way

Hi

Yep, you should be in manual focus on the camera. There is an 'M' setting on the dial which should be selected. I'm still not clear as to how you're camera is connected to the scope? You need it at prime focus, and focus using liveview. Having said that, there may be difficulties achieving focus with your scope. I've read that some people recommend using a Barlow and attaching the camera to the scope via the Barlow though I've no experience of doing that. As mentioned above, 1/250 and ISO200 should be ok to get an image. With a x2 Barlow you'd need a longer exposure as it makes the setup F13.84 rather than F6.92.

Louise

[Arcturian]

've used live view before but i just enabled it and initially i thought it just didnt work in 'M' mode but it didn't change when moving to other modes, how do I activate live view (after having enabled it in Menu > Settings). The camera is mounted on the camera using a T-ring Adapter. Standard setup from what I can gather. Do all the tips apply to stellar photography too? and what's the top end exposure length? Will i ever need to do exposures upwards of 20/30 seconds? Or are stellar objects best imaged at shorter exposures.

l.ast thing, will using image stacking software improve images like deep-sky nebulae does? And do you think this scope will be able to make out any deep sky objects?

Regards,
Imad

[Arcturian]

Can anyone explain "One Shot / AI Focus / Servo Focus" and "Elavuative Metering vs. Partial Metering"?

[Arcturian]

Evaluative Metering*

[Arcturian]

Don't worry about the question about AI Servo / AI Focus etc, I've read up on them, but does anyone know what mode is optimal? All my other questions still stand though, sorry to ask so many questions

[nmoushon]

Looks like you need to [removed word] down and read the manual. I know its boring and men don't read manuals but somethings just have to be done. Bite the bullet and do it.....

When in manual mode you have to set EVERY setting. So ISO, F/Stop, focus, ect. All the major settings that you should only need to be focused on have been mentioned above. Take you time to get focus right. Looks through the view finder and then when you think you got it focused take a pic and then on the screen zoom in and check your focus. Repeat until you get the details in focus to how you like it.

[ronin]

You are going to have to be in M mode, otherwise the camera will take over.

On my camera I have to set the Exposure in "Tv" mode to get the exposure length I require, then change the camera to "M".

You cannot set "Av" to anything that makes sense so easier to forget that, basically the camera cannot tell the scope to stop itself down or open itself up.

You then should have the exposure length set and in Manual, try 250 or 200 ish.

Set the selection on the front to MF, you will focus on the moon.

Posted in oither thread LV is via the menu then you press the Set button by the rear circular dial, that seem to put LV on the display. Manual P96.

Live View does not operate in some of the modes, but does for the P, Tv Av, M modes

From what I can read there is no "bulb" mode on the camera, if there is do not use it.

Bulb operates by holding the exposure button down half way and you want your hands off the camera as much as possible.

I assume that you mean Manual not Bulb ??

You are going to need something like this eventually:

http://www.amazon.co.uk/Digital-Timer-Remote-EZA-C1-Canon/dp/B003VIEDRO

I have one made by Shoot that looks the same, however I know the Shoot one works and this is half the cost which makes me a little curious. Equally for the moon you just need a remote cable for the exposures.

In response to other questions you will need much longer exposures for images other then the moon, you will need 20-30 seconds AND you will need 20 or so of them to stack on top of one another. This means all 20 have to be good. "Mixing" a blurred image with a sharp one destroys the sharp image. This is when the timer above comes into use.

A big part of the problem is that I suspect you have never used a fully manual camera (film), where you have to know what to set on the camera - as in every input. When you start with a Zenit B it may be a pain but you learn a lot.

[happy-kat]

There is no short cut really, reading the manual and practice will help you understand how it all works so that you have the ability to use the camera with what ever you are trying to photograph. The best thing is practice is free with a digital camera. A lot of members share what settings they used when they share a photo, I find this help full as I am learning. A remote release really helps as you don't get shake then, I got one on amazon with a built in intervalometer for approximately £13.

[bruno]

go to  xavier jubier's moon calculator web site, it will tell all the info you need to take shots of the moon also  read the camera manual &  there is loads of info on the web about camera exposure settings hopethis helps

[Thalestris24]

Just to add - I think it would be worth practicing during the day, and with terrestrial objects,, to get used to using the camera. That will make it easier to determine whether focus can be achieved.

[Arcturian]

There is no short cut really, reading the manual and practice will help you understand how it all works so that you have the ability to use the camera with what ever you are trying to photograph. The best thing is practice is free with a digital camera. A lot of members share what settings they used when they share a photo, I find this help full as I am learning. A remote release really helps as you don't get shake then, I got one on amazon with a built in intervalometer for approximately £13.

I already have a remote on the way, had to get it from a site overseas in the US so delivery can take upto 2 weeks but its coming.

I'm having a look at jubiers calculator now, but from what I can gather I (to some extent) done everything you guys are telling me but the images still came out blurry. Worth remembering that i only done each this for a  very short amount of time, like i said i had a really short window of oppertunity, hopefully better tonight so I can try everything with more comfort, not hurriedly. So yeah that's not very encouraging, I was hoping i done something obvious wrong but it appears not so.. How exactly do you manual focus on a 1000D, that's one thing i'm lacking knowledge of, I'll have a look at the manual now.

Also one last thing guys, are there any specific parts of the manual with really apply to astrophotography, would be good to know those ahead of time to save myself flipping through the whole book..

Regards, Imad

[Arcturian]

Just to add - I think it would be worth practicing during the day, and with terrestrial objects,, to get used to using the camera. That will make it easier to determine whether focus can be achieved.

How can i practice during the day ?

[Thalestris24]

How can i practice during the day ?

Hi

Just manually point your scope and camera at a distant terrestrial object - e.g. church tower, pylon, high-rise etc. You should be able to check that the camera can focus (using liveview) and maybe take a snap or two. If you can't achieve focus then you might have to try it with the x2 Barlow. If you can achieve focus then you know you can also focus on the moon This will also get you familiar with setting the camera up. You can check at the same time that your finder is lined up correctly and adjust if necessary.

Louise

[Arcturian]

Hi

Just manually point your scope and camera at a distant terrestrial object - e.g. church tower, pylon, high-rise etc. You should be able to check that the camera can focus (using liveview) and maybe take a snap or two. If you can't achieve focus then you might have to try it with the x2 Barlow. If you can achieve focus then you know you can also focus on the moon This will also get you familiar with setting the camera up. You can check at the same time that your finder is lined up correctly and adjust if necessary.

Louise

Won't a Barlow create too high magnification? do you mean a barlow lens alone or a barlow + widefield lens? I guess i should use my widefield eyepiece, right? I have a feeling 10mm would be too high magnification too, I also can't think of any good candidates to point the scope at, but i'm sure there'll be something. I'm gonna go try this now anyway, will be back with results soon

[FunkyKoval35]

Sorry but you are not reading what we are trying to tell you! So one more time: set manual settings (M)on your camera - you have to forget about any other settings, all you need is ISO and exposure time, which will be changed remotely by you. Remove eyepiece from telescope. Attach your camera to your scope using tring and tadapter for canons cameras. Get focus using livewiever on your camera. That's all! Need bigger magnification? Get a bigger scope, or put Barlow between the scope and camera...

[Thalestris24]

Won't a Barlow create too high magnification? do you mean a barlow lens alone or a barlow + widefield lens? I guess i should use my widefield eyepiece, right? I have a feeling 10mm would be too high magnification too, I also can't think of any good candidates to point the scope at, but i'm sure there'll be something. I'm gonna go try this now anyway, will be back with results soon

Hi

Only use the Barlow if you can't achieve focus without. Eyepieces don't come into it. Just the camera. You can connect a Barlow via the t-adapter on the camera. The liveview on the 1000d is like an eyepiece in that it allows you to see what you are looking at through the scope (if the object is bright enough - no problem with the moon!). Use the finder to get an object in view.

Louise

[Arcturian]

Sorry but you are not reading what we are trying to tell you! So one more time: set manual settings (M)on your camera - you have to forget about any other settings, all you need is ISO and exposure time, which will be changed remotely by you. Remove eyepiece from telescope. Attach your camera to your scope using tring and tadapter for canons cameras. Get focus using livewiever on your camera. That's all! Need bigger magnification? Get a bigger scope, or put Barlow between the scope and camera...

I've only ever used 'M' mode, and I've known to adjust exposure time and ISO from the start, hence why i was asking about other settings that i didnt know about.. Pretty much everything you said was what I've already been doing so I don't get why you're getting worked up. I've been imaging for 2 days, I have questions, apologies if they seem stupid but you didn't know these things some day.

Hi

Only use the Barlow if you can't achieve focus without. Eyepieces don't come into it. Just the camera. You can connect a Barlow via the t-adapter on the camera. The liveview on the 1000d is like an eyepiece in that it allows you to see what you are looking at through the scope (if the object is bright enough - no problem with the moon!). Use the finder to get an object in view.

Louise

I done everything you guys suggested and managed to take a relatively crisp image of a tree around 60-80 meters away. By far better than the ones taken of the moon, as you can see. Surely though a crisp image from this distance doesnt really transfer over to getting a crisp image of a star, or the moon, does it? Well I'll know for sure if conditions are good tonight

Imad

[Arcturian]

Sorry I meant to post the image along with that post;

http://s7.postimg.org/c72ngsqzv/IMG_1689.jpg