What software to go for??

[julian489289]

I have been imaging for about 24 months now and would like to improve my capture and focus routines but still feel an astro newby!

Currently, I use APT to control my Canon 650D DSLR, Cartes du Ciel & PHD to control my Magnificent mini auto guider.  I have aHEQ5 pro mount which I have to set up each occasion I go out to image, ie not a fixed mount and control through my laptop.

I have heard of Astro Tortilla for plate solving.  I think this is just for accurate alignment of my gotos but would like to know if it can also me used for aligning the same target over multiple imaging nights so that I can gather loads of data of that target over time??  I hope some one can advise if this software can do this or alternatively, how I can ensure that the target is accurately targeted each night.

I have also read about nebulosity as a capture and pre process software.  Is it worth the outlay to buy this software rather than just using APT or BYEoS?  I would like to get into dithering the DSLR.  Can Nebulosity do this or even APT?  If so, how would i set that up.

I am also looking into autofocusing.  I have seen the Lakeside focuser and wondered how this stood in people's recommendations.  I see it is expensive but it is a stepper motor and can be used for auto focus & temp correction.  Are these important considerations?

I use PHD to guide and note that it can be linked to APT or Nebulosity.  What is the benefit of linking PHD into these programs rather than running separately as I do now?

Sorry so many questions in one topic, hope you guys can guide me in the right direction to improve my set up and routine.  Have made some expensive mistakes in the past with buyng gear not really knowing what I am doing! 

[Dave_D]

Apart from eqmod, astrotortilla is the one piece of software i wouldn't want to be without, it'll but objects centre frame every time (well, it has for me anyway). Alignmaster is a good addition too for getting spot-on polar alignment

[Christopher Davenport]

Software I use,

EQMOD

Astrotortilla

APT can dither with PHD (server enabled)

I now use PHD2

APT had auto cancel on star movement, this is most helpful as it saves on wasted exposures.

My personal suggestion is first to move to CCD then look at nebulosity etc.

If I where to buy software it would be on pix insight for processing.

Hope my plans add a bit of perspective.

[russellhq]

When linking PHD to APT you should also be able to take advantage of dithering. This basically moves the scope slightly between captures, which in theory should give a better image.

As for Astrotortilla, it will solve a saved image (say your target from the previous night) and then get you centred on it so you can start from where you left off. A better approach is to use the bookmark function though, as this avoids the need for additional image solving. With this approach, once you have your target framed, you bookmark the last solved image and the next time you load Astrotortilla, you simple select your bookmark and it'll frame you up nicely.

You can also use AT for helping with your polar alignment as well.

[ollypenrice]

I wouldn't have said this had Christopher not opened the box but it seemed to me, in reading your thread, that you were throwing a lot of money and technology at a DSLR. I would keep all the technology simple and go for what really matters, the camera. I firmly believe CCD will roundly beat DSLR. You can dither and robo-focus and plate solve till the cows come home but you will still be using a DSLR.

Olly

[russellhq]

What is the light pollution like where you image and what focal length do you use? As these can have a big impact on what course of action to take!

[julian489289]

Olly,  I kow Chris is right and this is the next step, however the trouble is that I cannot afford a decent mono CCD camera together with Filter wheel & filters as this seems to be £1500 plus just for entry level stuff.  I have fallen into that trap before buying entry level but soon out growing it!  Then it is adding the software, Maxim DL, PixinSight or CCDware  or others to control the CCD which all seem very expensive.

Luckily, I have the DSLR for daily use and all the software that I have is freeware.  Purpose of this thread was to see if what I wanted to do, dithering, auto focus, plate solving etc could be done with the freeware that I have or would I need to invest in other software such as Nebulosity or the like??

From what I have seen, the DSLR gives a good run for the money as compared to CCDs at many thousands of pounds!  Is it really worth spending that much money for slight improvement in image quality??  Some results on the forums for DSLRs are cracking!!  Plus, it seems that I can do what I want with the software that I have and can then strive to achieve the quality of some results that I see on these forums.

Russel, unfortunately, I live in urban polluted skies and use an Explore Scientific 102mm ED APO which has a Focal length of 714mm.  I have tried an Astronomik LP clip filter but think that I need to travel up to an hour to reach those highly sought after dark skies!!

The good news is though, I managed to link PHD with APT the other night and achieved some dithering on a few light frames :-))  Also managed to plate solve with AT, what a great piece of freeware!!

Thanks for all of your comments guys, it is appreciated.

[ollypenrice]

You're thinking clearly and I don't want to sidetrack your thread. I can't really help all that much on the software side since I never got dither to work in Nebulosity but we were imaging at a very long focal length and with a zero backlash mount, which may have been part of the problem.

Just as a general rule, when looking at CCD versus DSLR images, be sure to check the speed of the optics and total exposure time when looking at CCD-like images from DSLRs. Sometims the kit in use is rather remarkable!

Olly

[Christopher Davenport]

Hey Julian,

The forum is for discussion of different possibilities, that's why it exists.

As a DSLR owner I know that to get the noise down and get a good image, I need about 7hrs of shallow short subs in winter (5C) ... 2 x sessions.

I use the following software:

Mount control - EQMOD

Find object and frame - APT

plate solving - Astrotorilla 

dithering / autocancel - APT / PHD

auto focus - APT 

Guide - PHD

Stack  - DSS

Edit - PS5

So to the question of paid software like nebulosity, I think I was pointing out that paid software comes into it's own once you using a CCD.

The reason for this is that once you get cooled camera in the mix, you need greater control and longer frames are possible.

Therefore I feel the answer to your question is, it can all be done using freeware, paid software is for the 'next level' as is a 'CCD'.

[russellhq]

Hey Julian,

The forum is for discussion of different possibilities, that's why it exists.

As a DSLR owner I know that to get the noise down and get a good image, I need about 7hrs of shallow short subs in winter (5C) ... 2 x sessions.

I use the following software:

Mount control - EQMOD

Find object and frame - APT

plate solving - Astrotorilla 

dithering / autocancel - APT / PHD

auto focus - APT 

Guide - PHD

Stack  - DSS

Edit - PS5

So to the question of paid software like nebulosity, I think I was pointing out that paid software comes into it's own once you using a CCD.

The reason for this is that once you get cooled camera in the mix, you need greater control and longer frames are possible.

Therefore I feel the answer to your question is, it can all be done using freeware, paid software is for the 'next level' as is a 'CCD'.

What hardware do you use to get APT auto focus to work?

[Christopher Davenport]

What hardware do you use to get APT auto focus to work?

I have only tested it with Canon EOS lenses.

But I know that it also supports the Hitech focus module which you can control SW Focuser.

http://www.firstlightoptics.com/hitecastro/hitecastro-dc-focus-controller.html

Edit: 

Best you ask Yoda on this forum for full details.

[guyroch]

I have also read about nebulosity as a capture and pre process software.  Is it worth the outlay to buy this software rather than just using APT or BYEoS?  I would like to get into dithering the DSLR.  Can Nebulosity do this or even APT?  If so, how would i set that up.

Nebulosity, APT, and BackyardEOS all can dither.  Remember that for dithering you must be guiding first with PHD

Regards,

Guylain

[julian489289]

Thanks Guys for your inputs.

No Chris I totally agree, this is why I post questions on these sites to get those other possibilities and some sound advice.

I see that I use exactly the same software as you Chris other than I have PS CS6.  I think I have sorted the dithering with PHD/APT but how do I set up autocancel?

Re the noise, you say that I need 7 hrs of shallow/short subs, what sort of ISO & exposure would that be?  I have been getting good subs at 8-9 min exposures at ISO 800, is that too much re the noise?

I have learnt already that the more data the better the final image.  Hence me wanting to use late solving so I could photo the same target over a number of nights to get that sort of data level.

My next step is to auto focus.  I have just bought a lakeside focuser from Ian King Imaging and I was hoping to use the auto focus with APT?  Is it not as easy as that?  hould I be looking to download some other modules to achieve autofocus with APT?

[Yoddha]

Hi Julian,

To configure the auto-cancel feature go to Gear tab, use Shift+Click on Guide button and you will be able to setup the Auto-Cancel

As for the auto-focusing with ASCOM focuser it is coming very soon

[julian489289]

Thanks Ivo, yes I am waiting for your Beta release with baited breath!!!!